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Authentic Universal Geneve buckle?

hungdangnguyen23
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Greetings vintage watch experts of OF - I am in the market for a UG buckle for my gold-plated Polerouter 215 and came across this:

Screen Shot 2019-01-08 at 4.46.02 PM.png Screen Shot 2019-01-08 at 4.46.17 PM.png


I've done some research on this forum and understand that I should be looking for stamp marks or etchings on the back of the buckle and it doesn't appear there are any here. And even thought the "U" is recognizable, it's not raised up and protruding from the lip of the buckle like I'm used to seeing from other member's posts on here.

I asked the seller about this, and here is his reply:

Screen Shot 2019-01-08 at 4.47.08 PM.png


The seller has perfect 100% feedback and appears to sell mostly watch parts (I think s/he is likely a watchmaker or retailer of some kind). So what say you, expert members of OF? Authentic buckle or fake?

Thank you!
 
gatorcpa
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It may be authentic, but it is wrong period for Cal. 215 Polerouter.

I’m not sure if these later buckles were signed by manufacturer, especially if made for them in USA.
gatorcpa
 
hungdangnguyen23
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I appreciate the feedback guys. Interesting, so if a 3rd party made the buckles for UG in the United States, then it obviously won't be signed "Swiss Made" or something to that effect?

The buckle is relatively cheap compared to others with the older UG logo....but my watch is from the 60's so I guess I'll keep looking...
 
Carlton-Browne
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I'm pretty certain that's authentic and I have one on a cal. 1105 3 hander - if I remember correctly it came on a UG teju strap from a Puerto Rican Ebay seller. It's obviously for a much later watch.
 
bimbim1207
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Hi Hung, these 80s later UG buckle are usually very cheap, compared to earlier buckle with older logos. It's authentic. I've one before.
 
Carlton-Browne
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That's a bit steep for what it is. I think that's what I paid for the buckle and the strap - it might even be the same seller.
 
Larry S
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Like all things UG ... buckles from the golden period are very hard to source... I was fortunate to be in the right place and time to get the ones I own.
 
C
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Larry S Larry S
Like all things UG ... buckles from the golden period are very hard to source... I was fortunate to be in the right place and time to get the ones I own.
They are impossible to find! I recently bought a 1959 20368 Polerouter and am considering this buckle. Italian seller, claims he received from a closed UG shop in Switzerland.

buck2.webp buck1.webp
 
bgrisso
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C charliem
They are impossible to find! I recently bought a 1959 20368 Polerouter and am considering this buckle. Italian seller, claims he received from a closed UG shop in Switzerland.

buck2.webp buck1.webp
buckles coming out of Italy are high risk for fakes
 
C
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bgrisso bgrisso
buckles coming out of Italy are high risk for fakes
I know but I am trying to look at this one objectively.
 
wcyc37
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bgrisso bgrisso
buckles coming out of Italy are high risk for fakes
May i know the authentic one for polerouter and tri compax should be 14mm or what size, from the side attached to the strap? Thanks
 
bgrisso
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I would say that in general, 16mm is more common than 14mm, but the buckle size is determined by the strap, not by the watch. The watch only determines the larger strap width (lug width), not the buckle width. So there are a variety of UG straps that would fit the same lug width. I think the taper to 14mm was more common for "dress" watches (like a gold tri for example), as compared to "sport" watches, like a SS polerouter. But again, this is a matter of taste, not fact. I suppose you could search for any sales/marketing brochures to try and determine what UG felt were good strap/buckle combinations with particular watches?
 
wcyc37
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bgrisso bgrisso
I would say that in general, 16mm is more common than 14mm, but the buckle size is determined by the strap, not by the watch. The watch only determines the larger strap width (lug width), not the buckle width. So there are a variety of UG straps that would fit the same lug width. I think the taper to 14mm was more common for "dress" watches (like a gold tri for example), as compared to "sport" watches, like a SS polerouter. But again, this is a matter of taste, not fact. I suppose you could search for any sales/marketing brochures to try and determine what UG felt were good strap/buckle combinations with particular watches?
bgrisso bgrisso
I would say that in general, 16mm is more common than 14mm, but the buckle size is determined by the strap, not by the watch. The watch only determines the larger strap width (lug width), not the buckle width. So there are a variety of UG straps that would fit the same lug width. I think the taper to 14mm was more common for "dress" watches (like a gold tri for example), as compared to "sport" watches, like a SS polerouter. But again, this is a matter of taste, not fact. I suppose you could search for any sales/marketing brochures to try and determine what UG felt were good strap/buckle combinations with particular watches?
I see. Thanks for the explanation.
 
Larry S
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If you have large wrists, 14mm looks odd. I much prefer 16-18mm buckles.
 
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