165.024 Seamaster

[G'c]

Thank you very much for accepting me into these forums. Admired all your vintage omegas and would wish to acquire one someday….

Sincere apologies that my first substantive post is a query - I have done some research but since I’m a novice on this I hope the experts here can shed some light on a recent 165.024 example I saw (first 6 pics from the seller, the remaining took by myself).

- Dial: has the pinholes on 12 and 6 markers. Lume patina seems evenly distributed. 3-6-9 font appears to be correct.

- bezel: from the forums this appears to be 66-67 period.

- caseback reference: without space - with hf logo,appears to be in line with 66-67 period.
- serial number: 24x. In line with 66-67.

-movement: 550. Some SM 300 comes with this due to tax reasons.

To my novice eyes everything seems correct but I’m not sure if there are anything I should look out for. For eg:

- on one of the lugs of the caseback, there seems to be some markings. Are these common?

- bezel has NO clicks when turned. I assume there is some damage inside? Will fixing this require sourcing original and expensive parts?

- crown: understand this should come with naiad crown. The logo appears correct but missing the Mercedes logo. Is this correct?

- in view of the above, what is a reasonable price of a watch head like this (no bracelet)

Thank you so much in advance for members input and guidance on this. Whether or not I get the watch in the end, it will be a great learning experience for me.

 

[Aludic]

G'c

Sincere apologies that my first substantive post is a query - I have done some research but since I’m a novice on this I hope the experts here can shed some light on a recent 165.024 example I saw (first 6 pics from the seller, the remaining took by myself).

Well, other than that I can assure you that it looks like a pretty honest watch to my eyes (disclaimer: I am very much into vintage Speedmasters, but not so much into the SM300 myself)... I would like to add that I don't see any need for you to apologise. You have clearly done your homework and now came back to share. That's exactly what this forum is for. I hope you'll find what you need here!

 

[Donn Chambers]

The bezel should have a retaining spring and 3 bearings in the case under it.

See this link for more info:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/seamaster-300-bezel-click-question.14741/

When your watchmaker services it, they should be able to sort it out.

 

[BlackTalon]

Bezel insert seems to have a bit of damage along the inside edge. Hopefully whatever caused that has already been remedied.

 

[kox]

Any 'OXG' marking on the body of the balance cock?
If you have a full picture of the movement, please share then.

 

[TexOmega]

Welcome....great example.....and if you get it, you can join our "NO DOT" Seamaster 300 Club.

Mine was produced in Jan 1967 and with your serial # it may be a Nov/December '66 Baby.

 

[G'c]

Aludic

Well, other than that I can assure you that it looks like a pretty honest watch to my eyes (disclaimer: I am very much into vintage Speedmasters, but not so much into the SM300 myself)... I would like to add that I don't see any need for you to apologise. You have clearly done your homework and now came back to share. That's exactly what this forum is for. I hope you'll find what you need here!

thank you so much for your kind words - this is very encouraging and thanks again for sharing. The speedmaster vintage world is crazy and hence for so called vintage ones I only have a Neo vintage 3590.50 as a safe choice…

 

[G'c]

kox

Any 'OXG' marking on the body of the balance cock?
If you have a full picture of the movement, please share then.

Ah … I didn’t have the chance to open the caseback. The movement pic shown was from the original listing of the seller. If I have the chance to see it again I might have a look. Thanks again!

 

[G'c]

BlackTalon

Bezel insert seems to have a bit of damage along the inside edge. Hopefully whatever caused that has already been remedied.

apologies for my ignorance but how are you able to tell? And if so, does it affect the value a lot? I am not quite sure how much value an example like this would cost.

 

[G'c]

Donn Chambers

The bezel should have a retaining spring and 3 bearings in the case under it.

See this link for more info:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/seamaster-300-bezel-click-question.14741/

When your watchmaker services it, they should be able to sort it out.

thanks Donn!! It seems that some original omega parts are required. I’m based in Hong Kong and wondering if these can be sourced and if they are expensive… the posts about the ball bearings seem to be back in 2014.. hopefully they are still available. Are there parts usually expensive?

 

[G'c]

Thanks all for the comments thus far! Much appreciated on all your help. It seems that the main “issue” spotted is about the potential bezel damage. Taken into the service costs and not sure if it is still possible to source original parts, what will be a fair price to purchase this ? Does 5000 usd sound fair?

another silly question which I’m unable to find online: when the crown is fully screwed in, does this crown of this reference still move or stay locked, and I assume there should only be another pull out position for setting the time?

apologies for the many questions- since the shop is not a large establishment I am just worried plonking quite a sum of money on this if things go wrong.

 

[Donn Chambers]

G'c

Thanks all for the comments thus far! Much appreciated on all your help. It seems that the main “issue” spotted is about the potential bezel damage. Taken into the service costs and not sure if it is still possible to source original parts, what will be a fair price to purchase this ? Does 5000 usd sound fair?

another silly question which I’m unable to find online: when the crown is fully screwed in, does this crown of this reference still move or stay locked, and I assume there should only be another pull out position for setting the time?

apologies for the many questions- since the shop is not a large establishment I am just worried plonking quite a sum of money on this if things go wrong.

Naid crowns don’t screw in. So it will wind freely at all times. Pull out once to set the time.

 

[Kwijibo]

Shouldn't it be a 552? The crystal looks original. I wouldn't change it but have it polished. For me the crack on the bezel insert is not a big deal for a 55/60 year old watch.
I confirm that there was no screwed in crown. So you will have to check the O'ring gasket.

 

[Donn Chambers]

Kwijibo

Shouldn't it be a 552? The crystal looks original. I wouldn't change it but have it polished. For me the crack on the bezel insert is not a big deal for a 55/60 year old watch.
I confirm that there was no screwed in crown. So you will have to check the O'ring gasket.

The cal. 550 was used in US import versions because import taxes were based on the number of jewels in the movement. I’ve read that the 550 was developed specifically for these markets by removing a few jewels and replacing with brass bushings to avoid extra duty costs by the US importer, but I don’t know if this is true or not.

I can say that I had a 1966 version with a 550 movement and Omega verified that movement had been imported into the US in a 165.024.

 

[TexOmega]

It is correct our USA importations were 17j due to additional duty costs for any number over 17j.

 

[BlackTalon]

G'c

apologies for my ignorance but how are you able to tell? And if so, does it affect the value a lot? I am not quite sure how much value an example like this would cost.

I enlarged a picture and saw it.

 

[Knudsen1971]

2421 serial is late Dec66.
The ruby ball bearings and the springs under can be still ordered from Omega. I can check the number and price once on my computer.

 

[G'c]

BlackTalon

I enlarged a picture and saw it.

Apologies - now I get what you meant by the bezel defect. Thank you very much for your kind advice. Well spotted.

 

[G'c]

Knudsen1971

2421 serial is late Dec66.
The ruby ball bearings and the springs under can be still ordered from Omega. I can check the number and price once on my computer.

Thank you so much Knudsen 1971. That will certainly be very helpful on assessing whether I should consider purchasing this or not.

 

[G'c]

Donn Chambers

The cal. 550 was used in US import versions because import taxes were based on the number of jewels in the movement. I’ve read that the 550 was developed specifically for these markets by removing a few jewels and replacing with brass bushings to avoid extra duty costs by the US importer, but I don’t know if this is true or not.

I can say that I had a 1966 version with a 550 movement and Omega verified that movement had been imported into the US in a 165.024.

Thanks Donn - I saw similar info from this blog (which quoted these forums as well): https://thatwatchandmore.blogspot.com/2013/03/buying-vintage-omega-seamaster-300.html

To quote from the blog, ". It was cheaper to import caliber 550 instead of the usual caliber 552. The same goes for the date version it seems, although this is not confirmed by Omega"

Also from a post by Fallout Boy here: https://omegaforums.net/threads/please-help-with-vintage-omega-seamaster-300.136230/. There's an extract showing a 165.024 with 550 movement.