Would you take the risk starting self studying watchmaking?

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Thank you @Archer for the great book. I decided to order it also, and read about theory.
I also ordered these two books in the photos after a research I made about which books are recommended for beginners . I also asked some watch tinkerers who seem to get along quite good with simple
Movements. the “practical watch repairing” is already with me:
 
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Please keep in mind that watchmaking is not static - those books may have been "state of the art" when they were written, but technology and watchmaking techniques have advanced a great deal since those were first penned.

So when you get to the section on cleaning in the DeCarle book, and read "Dissolve a piece of cyanide the size of a walnut in a tea cup of warm water..." just know that current technology doesn't follow many of these techniques. If you want some hints on modern cleaning methods, this thread might help:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/basic-watchmaking-tips-cleaning.56365/#post-696021

And I've written an entire series of threads on different subjects, so here is part 1 of the oiling series I made, and in the first post there are links to other threads that explore specific topics:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/basic-watchmaking-tips-oiling-part-1.62310/

I've provided all this information for free, so no asking for discounts required. 😉

Cheers, Al
 
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Please keep in mind that watchmaking is not static - those books may have been "state of the art" when they were written, but technology and watchmaking techniques have advanced a great deal since those were first penned.

So when you get to the section on cleaning in the DeCarle book, and read "Dissolve a piece of cyanide the size of a walnut in a tea cup of warm water..." just know that current technology doesn't follow many of these techniques. If you want some hints on modern cleaning methods, this thread might help:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/basic-watchmaking-tips-cleaning.56365/#post-696021

And I've written an entire series of threads on different subjects, so here is part 1 of the oiling series I made, and in the first post there are links to other threads that explore specific topics:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/basic-watchmaking-tips-oiling-part-1.62310/

I've provided all this information for free, so no asking for discounts required. 😉

Cheers, Al
I am sorry to bother again. Recently I purchased a cheap ultrasonic water cleaner which does a great job to my cases and bracelets. Would you recommend using it for parts inside the caliber?
Again I am referring to cheap calibers. ....
 
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I am sorry to bother again. Recently I purchased a cheap ultrasonic water cleaner which does a great job to my cases and bracelets. Would you recommend using it for parts inside the caliber?
Again I am referring to cheap calibers. ....

You can place the parts (after disassembly) in small jars of the proper cleaning fluids (solvent based) and then place those jars in the ultrasonic tank, with the water in the tank.
 
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You can place the parts (after disassembly) in small jars of the proper cleaning fluids (solvent based) and then place those jars in the ultrasonic tank, with the water in the tank.
I see ... in that way only the ultrasonic waves will touch the parts , and not the water in the tank...

Thank you
 
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I am sorry to bother again. Recently I purchased a cheap ultrasonic water cleaner which does a great job to my cases and bracelets. Would you recommend using it for parts inside the caliber?
Again I am referring to cheap calibers. ....

You can get away with naphtha (benzine, white gas, coleman fuel, etc) but you should get proper cleaners (Be very careful if you use naphtha as it is quite flammable). I use L&R #111 Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution - Ammoniated and L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinsing Solution. They are based on Stoddard Solvent with various additives for enhanced cleaning in an ultrasonic. The picture Canuck posted above is the right idea for a hobbyists ultrasonic; the thinner the glass the better. Kimax beakers are recommended although a bit expensive in lots of 12.

Get one or more cleaning baskets, about the size of a large thimble with a screen on each end for the little parts. A larger basket that just fits the glass makes it easier to drain and dry the parts; a hair dryer or heat lamp does the trick (again the flammability caution on naphtha). Get pegwood for pegging the bushings and pithwood for cleaning pivots; you can read about both in de Carle. I have his Practical Watch Repairing and as Archer says, it goes into the basics pretty well but many parts are dated.

As you probably already figured out, none of this stuff is cheap. You can buy good stuff or cheap stuff, but unless you throw in the towel, you will eventually buy good stuff. I've done both but have resigned myself to avoiding cheap stuff.

Also get in the habit of never touching anything without wearing finger cots. Powder-free gloves also work but are not as comfortable and you will grow tired of wearing them for extended periods. Cots go on the left thumb, fore and middle fingers (assuming you are not a southpaw). Tools go in the right hand.
 
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You can get away with naphtha (benzine, white gas, coleman fuel, etc) but you should get proper cleaners (Be very careful if you use naphtha as it is quite flammable). I use L&R #111 Ultrasonic Watch Cleaning Solution - Ammoniated and L&R Ultrasonic Watch Rinsing Solution. They are based on Stoddard Solvent with various additives for enhanced cleaning in an ultrasonic. The picture Canuck posted above is the right idea for a hobbyists ultrasonic; the thinner the glass the better. Kimax beakers are recommended although a bit expensive in lots of 12.

Get one or more cleaning baskets, about the size of a large thimble with a screen on each end for the little parts. A larger basket that just fits the glass makes it easier to drain and dry the parts; a hair dryer or heat lamp does the trick (again the flammability caution on naphtha). Get pegwood for pegging the bushings and pithwood for cleaning pivots; you can read about both in de Carle. I have his Practical Watch Repairing and as Archer says, it goes into the basics pretty well but many parts are dated.

As you probably already figured out, none of this stuff is cheap. You can buy good stuff or cheap stuff, but unless you throw in the towel, you will eventually buy good stuff. I've done both but have resigned myself to avoiding cheap stuff.

Also get in the habit of never touching anything without wearing finger cots. Powder-free gloves also work but are not as comfortable and you will grow tired of wearing them for extended periods. Cots go on the left thumb, fore and middle fingers (assuming you are not a southpaw). Tools go in the right hand.
That is really helpful.. Maybe I borrow some solvent liquid form my watchmaker with whom we are becoming friends day by day.. Thank you also for the advice on cots. However, Powder cots won't affect the parts?
 
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^^ Get parts at a supply house and they won't have powder. I wasn't aware of powdered cots as the chief function of cots is cleanliness (however, I learn all the time).

Keep in mind that cleaner and rinse goes for more than $3 a cup, about the price of coffee. Make sure to buy him some in exchange.😉
 
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^^ Get parts at a supply house and they won't have powder. I wasn't aware of powdered cots as the chief function of cots is cleanliness (however, I learn all the time).

Keep in mind that cleaner and rinse goes for more than $3 a cup, about the price of coffee. Make sure to buy him some in exchange.😉
Thanks.Of course I will buy him!
 
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If you have an ultrasonic machine and use small jars of cleaners, make sure the water level in the machine is at the right height when a jar is put in. The cleaning fluid should also be at about the same level as the water.

It's important to have as little material between the parts and the fluid, so no really heavy baskets etc. For cleaning most parts, you can use a tea dunker.

idealisk-tea-infuser__0713448_PE729535_S5.JPG
Be very carefully when putting parts in / out as the spring can flip them into the never never.

Or you can use this type.

minex-stainless-steel-tea-infuser-ball-45mm-tea-infusers-28864906895_2000x.png
 
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If you have an ultrasonic machine and use small jars of cleaners, make sure the water level in the machine is at the right height when a jar is put in. The cleaning fluid should also be at about the same level as the water.

It's important to have as little material between the parts and the fluid, so no really heavy baskets etc. For cleaning most parts, you can use a tea dunker.

idealisk-tea-infuser__0713448_PE729535_S5.JPG
Be very carefully when putting parts in / out as the spring can flip them into the never never.

Or you can use this type.

minex-stainless-steel-tea-infuser-ball-45mm-tea-infusers-28864906895_2000x.png
These baskets are not suitable for wrist watch parts. Smaller parts will not be retained by the baskets.
 
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I think every WM should offer a kind of discount to his regular clients. this is if he wants to be called professional. And this goes to all professions... even mine. I do it all the time.
Why does giving discounts make someone a professional?
 
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These baskets are not suitable for wrist watch parts. Smaller parts will not be retained by the baskets.

It depends on the size of the mesh of course. I have no problems retaining things as small as cap jewels.
 
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Depends on how far you get into repairing of watches. I have used Bergeon small parts baskets for years, for all watch parts, except plates, bridges, and larger parts from pocket watches. They aren’t cheap, but you avoid the expense and frustration of having to replace lost parts. Two sizes shown.

 
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Depends on how far you get into repairing of watches. I have used Bergeon small parts baskets for years, for all watch parts, except plates, bridges, and larger parts from pocket watches. They aren’t cheap, but you avoid the expense and frustration of having to replace lost parts. Two sizes shown.


Yep, I've got a couple of them for really tiny parts.

This is how I have set them up. Suspended in the fluid and into the tank.

 
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ive started with vintage pocketwatches and pocketwatch movements ive scored on ebay. mind you its very amateurish but almost like bunnspecial
 
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I started off tinkering with American pocket watches I could find cheaply about twenty-five years ago while I was still in high school. My watchmaker at the time gave me some tips and I spent time gathering tools, books, and cheap watches to tinker with. At this point I know how to perform a basic service and not screw something up, that said I am not a watchmaker and know what my limitations are.