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vintage hab
·I’ve shown this one before, obtained a while ago from a fellow OF member, but I finally got it it’s own strap. I tried to match the thread and lume, although the thread seems a little lighter.
WHO loves Certinas ?
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Nupero
·I’ve shown this one before, obtained a while ago from a fellow OF member, but I finally got it it’s own strap. I tried to match the thread and lume, although the thread seems a little lighter.
Lovely! Do you know the production year?
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vintage hab
·Lovely! Do you know the production year?
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Nupero
·1964 vs. 1969
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vintage hab
·Nah, I declare this duel a draw.
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Mooieklokjes
·I love Certinas! The attention to detail in their designs is something not many brands of this price range had. Take for example this chunky Argonaut 220. The indices match both the case colour and the colour of the hands. But also its vertically brushed stainless steel case, steel’ish blue dial and the grey steel datewheel which also has been sort of brushed! I love these details, but maybe I’m biased since I have a weakness for date watches with a different colour datewheel than white.
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VintageYouWant
·Hello fellow Certina Lovers,
I'm in a negociation to buy a first gen automatic Ds1.
The crown on this particular watch doesn't seem to be signed Certina.
I've head some of the early model were not all signed. Can you confirm this information please ?
Thanks a lot
I'm in a negociation to buy a first gen automatic Ds1.
The crown on this particular watch doesn't seem to be signed Certina.
I've head some of the early model were not all signed. Can you confirm this information please ?
Thanks a lot
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b-lilja
·Hi Certinoids,
I'm a little project mission...I have not been wearing my blue dial auto DS-2 (w v1 SS band) much and was even contemplating selling it. Then I realized that for me it just needed to be on a non-metal strap - helping reduce the bling and frame the amazing head more. I threw on a blue Eulit and it totally changed the watch for me.
Now I want to take it even further and get it on a leather strap as close to original as possible, including buckle. Also want to be able to see the turtle back, which is one of the best parts of the watch (mine is perfect). Do folks know: a) what the buckle dimension was (I am assuming 16mm but not sure) and b) what the buckle looked like? Even better, anyone have a proper one they want to sell?
I'm a little project mission...I have not been wearing my blue dial auto DS-2 (w v1 SS band) much and was even contemplating selling it. Then I realized that for me it just needed to be on a non-metal strap - helping reduce the bling and frame the amazing head more. I threw on a blue Eulit and it totally changed the watch for me.
Now I want to take it even further and get it on a leather strap as close to original as possible, including buckle. Also want to be able to see the turtle back, which is one of the best parts of the watch (mine is perfect). Do folks know: a) what the buckle dimension was (I am assuming 16mm but not sure) and b) what the buckle looked like? Even better, anyone have a proper one they want to sell?
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Nupero
·Hi Certinoids,
I'm a little project mission...I have not been wearing my blue dial auto DS-2 (w v1 SS band) much and was even contemplating selling it. Then I realized that for me it just needed to be on a non-metal strap - helping reduce the bling and frame the amazing head more. I threw on a blue Eulit and it totally changed the watch for me.
Now I want to take it even further and get it on a leather strap as close to original as possible, including buckle. Also want to be able to see the turtle back, which is one of the best parts of the watch (mine is perfect). Do folks know: a) what the buckle dimension was (I am assuming 16mm but not sure) and b) what the buckle looked like? Even better, anyone have a proper one they want to sell?
Yep, original buckle is 16mm. Original straps were black flat grain leather, black stitching with substantial taper to only 10mm. To me these straps feel too slim as the DS-2 is quite a heavy watch. Here's some pics:
Left original black strap, right modern strap from Fluco.
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b-lilja
·Thanks for the great info and images. I am however confused...how does the strap taper to 10mm with a 16mm buckle? The NOS and modern strap you show seem to have similar tapers. Just seeking clarity - thank you this is exactly what I was trying to figure out.
I do agree the strap is small relative to the watch head - this watch feels like it should have a 20mm strap slot, not 18mm at the head.
I do agree the strap is small relative to the watch head - this watch feels like it should have a 20mm strap slot, not 18mm at the head.
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Nupero
·Thanks for the great info and images. I am however confused...how does the strap taper to 10mm with a 16mm buckle? The NOS and modern strap you show seem to have similar tapers. Just seeking clarity - thank you this is exactly what I was trying to figure out.
I do agree the strap is small relative to the watch head - this watch feels like it should have a 20mm strap slot, not 18mm at the head.
Sorry, I should have been more clear because my pics do not show it. The strap is not symmetrical: the "side" with the buckle tapers to 16mm and the other side tapers to 10mm (the part with the holes poked through)
EDIT: @b-lilja Here's a pic with random modern strap. Vintage strap is really slim in comparison.
Edited:
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b-lilja
·Wow, that's somewhat weird...thanks for the info.
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Biezmez
·Hello fellow Certina Lovers,
I'm in a negociation to buy a first gen automatic Ds1.
The crown on this particular watch doesn't seem to be signed Certina.
I've head some of the early model were not all signed. Can you confirm this information please ?
Thanks a lot
Not as far as I’m aware. They should have a signed crown. I’m aware that Omega did this on earlier models (1940’s), but by the late 50’s/60’s the crowns were signed.
Regards
Chris
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philby
·These two lovely beauties have just arrived here, and my recent infatuation with Eterna-Matics has been stopped cold.
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philby
·Couple unusual dials and a cool bracelet, very nice. Congrats, unpolished DS is a thing of beauty 😀
Unfortunately, the inverse is true for the state of the ticking heart, as both are in not-too-good shape.
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ChukaChuks
·Hi,
I recently got a Certina DS Automatic, I believe the reference number is 5601 112, based on vintagecertina.ch site (don't have the tool to open the back plate right now nor do I want to currently).No matter the reference number, watch was probably made in 60s. I asked the guy who I got it from if he knows whether the material used for the lume has radium or tritium and he said the watch is not so old and that there is no radium, but I am still in doubt.
I believe that 60s were the period of 'transition' from radium to tritium. Does anybody know when Certina switched and did they mark every tritium with 't-swiss made-t'? My watch has 'swiss made' in the bottom of the dial, barely seeable when watching from the top with sharp view angle.
I am not scared of gamma radiation or radon buildup, but I am of particles getting free in case of crystal breakage or some other scenario.
The lume has no glow in dark and it doesn't charge in light. Is the only way to find out the geiger counter or does anybody have any info? What do you think about reluming and would that make the watch considerably safer? Am I maybe being overcautious?
I am asking here, because while searching, this seemed to be the most active place about Certina watches with some knowledgable members.
Thanks
I recently got a Certina DS Automatic, I believe the reference number is 5601 112, based on vintagecertina.ch site (don't have the tool to open the back plate right now nor do I want to currently).No matter the reference number, watch was probably made in 60s. I asked the guy who I got it from if he knows whether the material used for the lume has radium or tritium and he said the watch is not so old and that there is no radium, but I am still in doubt.
I believe that 60s were the period of 'transition' from radium to tritium. Does anybody know when Certina switched and did they mark every tritium with 't-swiss made-t'? My watch has 'swiss made' in the bottom of the dial, barely seeable when watching from the top with sharp view angle.
I am not scared of gamma radiation or radon buildup, but I am of particles getting free in case of crystal breakage or some other scenario.
The lume has no glow in dark and it doesn't charge in light. Is the only way to find out the geiger counter or does anybody have any info? What do you think about reluming and would that make the watch considerably safer? Am I maybe being overcautious?
I am asking here, because while searching, this seemed to be the most active place about Certina watches with some knowledgable members.
Thanks