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Which Speedmaster should I look for if…?

F
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watchyouwant watchyouwant
Best from Japanese dealers, much cheaper. Chrono24 gives you the security and Japanese are mostly meticulous. Win-Win.
Much cheaper, with a few likely minor gotchas: many bracelets are sub 18cm / 7.25” for my wrist; then is US duty (and if DHL is used they add on lots of their own import fees) going to end up meeting the US sellers’ prices… I haven’t been able to compute US duty on a $3K watch (heck, on ANY watch over $800).
 
watchyouwant
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F fearlessleader
Much cheaper, with a few likely minor gotchas: many bracelets are sub 18cm / 7.25” for my wrist; then is US duty (and if DHL is used they add on lots of their own import fees) going to end up meeting the US sellers’ prices… I haven’t been able to compute US duty on a $3K watch (heck, on ANY watch over $800).

Look, what do you want? Perfect Speed Master with everything for $ 3000 ? That will simply not happen. The one, I showed you , is Under !!! $3000 incl. Courier to you. For that difference you find as many spare links as you want. And once you have it on your wrist, you will never go back to a black Tachy bezel. And USA customs is what ? 10% State ? You are still 100's in front ....
 
F
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watchyouwant watchyouwant
Look, what do you want? Perfect Speed Master with everything for $ 3000 ? That will simply not happen. The one, I showed you , is Under !!! $3000 incl. Courier to you. For that difference you find as many spare links as you want. And once you have it on your wrist, you will never go back to a black Tachy bezel. And USA customs is what ? 10% State ? You are still 100's in front ....
Hey, I was talking in the general case having looked at many "reduced" (and other brands) on Chrono24 from JP only to find the bracelets were way too small. Not knowing the price of these links, again in the general case, I compared to a couple of other times I've checked (e.g. Tag Heur, and others) only to find each link (if you could find it) was $200.

Now, THIS watch is a definite "I dang well am seriously considering it now -- thanks to you!". A model I hadn't considered seriously before. Thank you!!!
 
padders
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F fearlessleader
Thanks much. I thought that all Broad Arrows had a date since all the ones I’ve seen did. Maybe giving up on the idea of a black bezel should be the first of my compro.

Speedmaster naming conventions are confusing. When launched that one wasn’t known as a Broad Arrow, it was in fact called the Replica Model. Yes seriously! The Broad Arrow label was as you say originally and more usually used for a range of full size models using the Pro case but with a quite different auto movement with date. Omega have changed how they refer to this one several times and most recently they are calling it the Relaunch model. It’s a good choice as the cheapest Pro shape 1861 movement model but they are all 20+ years old so some are getting tatty now. The hands in particular are often pitted. A good one is a very nice thing though.
Edited:
 
F
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padders padders
It’s a good choice as the cheapest Pro shape 1861 movement model but they are all 20+ years old so some are getting tatty now. The hands in particular are often pitted. A good one is a very nice thing though.
Does this one seem “good” to you? To my inexperienced eyes, it doesn’t seem tatty.
watchyouwant watchyouwant
Screenshot_2024-06-21-19-35-45-769_com.chrono24.mobile.jpg

.
 
D
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I would only buy a Speedmaster Professional. It will cost more but it is much more popular than other Speedmasters in case you ever want to sell it.
 
ErichPryde
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D drster
I would only buy a Speedmaster Professional. It will cost more but it is much more popular than other Speedmasters in case you ever want to sell it.

Hence the yin-yang: it seems like it is "dime-a-dozen" because of popularity, but in reality holds value (not to mention- resaleability!) better than any other Speedmaster because of that popularity. So... other speedmasters are actually "dime-priced" for that reason.

If you want a Speedmaster because you want a Speedmaster, get a Pro. If you want a Speedmaster because you want that watch, get that watch.
 
ErichPryde
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F fearlessleader
Does this one seem “good” to you? To my inexperienced eyes, it doesn’t seem tatty.

It's probably going to need a service anyway, and Omega replaces polished hands as part of that service. The hands are not corroded that I see.


@fearlessleader increase your budget and find the best example within your budget. If you really want a professional moonwatch and buy something different you are not only going to be unhappy with your purchase you are going to be stuck with a watch that may be very difficult for you to move on or that you'll take a loss on. The broad arrow "replica" is high demand for a non-pro, but you could probably find a 1861 powered pro for mid 3s with a bit of looking.
 
F
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D drster
I would only buy a Speedmaster Professional. It will cost more but it is much more popular than other Speedmasters in case you ever want to sell it.
Thanks, but selling it would end up being something for my estate to do 😀
For ME, I've got lots of micro-brands to sell, but I don't know their value (and yes, watchrecon helps but not enough yet).
 
ErichPryde
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F fearlessleader
My question about the tritium is: won't it be past it's half-life and not glow at all? maybe that doesn't matter or maybe it just gives a non-glow nice look???

Yes, it is about that vintage look, which means that you have completely ineffective and non-functioning luminous material. I'm going to go against the flow a bit and say that unless you specifically want vintage aged tritium, you shouldn't prioritize it. It is its own kind of style separate from the black & white effect of a speedy with functional lume (not to mention, you don't have working lume, which can be its own downside).
 
F
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ErichPryde ErichPryde
It's probably going to need a service anyway, and Omega replaces polished hands as part of that service. The hands are not corroded that I see.

Which raises the next set of questions (that may well be answered in other threads): where to get a Speedy serviced and how much would Omega charge (yes, plus parts which could be expensive)... and, of course, should one go to Omega knowing they'll replace any original parts with new OEM parts?

ErichPryde ErichPryde
@fearlessleader increase your budget and find the best example within your budget. If you really want a professional moonwatch and buy something different you are not only going to be unhappy with your purchase you are going to be stuck with a watch that may be very difficult for you to move on or that you'll take a loss on. The broad arrow "replica" is high demand for a non-pro, but you could probably find a 1861 powered pro for mid 3s with a bit of looking.

I have been looking at used Speedy Pros, but almost all were >$4K (many >$5K) and my stretched budget is $3K (I've found "you" have a budget and then you end up stretching it).
 
ErichPryde
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Whatever you do, do not settle. You will regret it. You might be able to find a 3570.50 without box/papers for just over 3k. But, it will likely need service.
My advice: set an upper price of 4,500, and save up. Then find the Speedmaster professional that fits the amount of money you have. It sounds like you want a Hesalite speedy pro.

F fearlessleader
Which raises the next set of questions (that may well be answered in other threads): where to get a Speedy serviced and how much would Omega charge (yes, plus parts which could be expensive)... and, of course, should one go to Omega knowing they'll replace any original parts with new OEM parts?

Omega charges USD900 for service on a chronograph. That is fairly inclusive and they replace many, many parts as part of the service. Dials, cases, crystals- those things (and others) cost extra. They do send your parts back to you in a baggie.

If you decide to go to the tritium dial route, Omega will replace your dial wirh a service dial, defeating the whole purpose. That's what a good independent watchmaker is for, where a service may cost you half as much as Omegas.
Edited:
 
wagudc
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gbesq gbesq
Personally, I would save more money and go for a 3590.50 as it has the tritium dual and handset that the 3570.50 lacks, but it will cost you at least $500 more

This 100% is the way to go
 
Dsloan
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F fearlessleader
Which raises the next set of questions (that may well be answered in other threads): where to get a Speedy serviced and how much would Omega charge (yes, plus parts which could be expensive)... and, of course, should one go to Omega knowing they'll replace any original parts with new OEM parts?



I have been looking at used Speedy Pros, but almost all were >$4K (many >$5K) and my stretched budget is $3K (I've found "you" have a budget and then you end up stretching it).

If you want a speedy pro, save up and get a speedy pro. I think many of us budget-conscious collectors get stuck in the trap of feeling like spending $X dollars is ok, but spending $2*X dollars is not ok. But, soon we usually end up having multiple watches at $X dollars anyway and the net expenditure is the same.

That said, I have the broad arrow that was recommended and love it. But, if you end up buying something other than a speedy pro, make sure you're actually want it. Don't buy something else because you're in a hurry and don't have enough saved up for what you really want.
 
F
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Dsloan Dsloan
If you want a speedy pro, save up and get a speedy pro. I think many of us budget-conscious collectors get stuck in the trap of feeling like spending $X dollars is ok, but spending $2*X dollars is not ok. But, soon we usually end up having multiple watches at $X dollars anyway and the net expenditure is the same.

That said, I have the broad arrow that was recommended and love it. But, if you end up buying something other than a speedy pro, make sure you're actually want it. Don't buy something else because you're in a hurry and don't have enough saved up for what you really want.
All of this part of the responses to my original question has made me think...

Maybe I should wait a month or three, sell several micro brands (or other stuff in the house), and get enough so that my $3K budget + all of that "revenue" means I could buy a brand new Speedy Pro (e.g. a 310.30.42.50.01.001 is $7K at my friendly local AD, and sure seems to be the type of Pro I wanted -- it shows as manual and hesalite which are even two pluses). See what y'all have got me thinking...

Sheesh, I began by deciding to get a used Speedy (of some model, close-ish to the Pro) and now I've started to think of saving up and buying a new one.

Which raises yet another question: is that 310.30.42.50.01.001 likely to be in stock (or re-stock) regularly?
 
ErichPryde
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Yes, it is incredibly likely to be in stock. But, before you decide to get a brand new one, used 310.30s can be had for mid 4s, and new ones for mid 5s. Don't pay full price from an AD if you go that route ( but you cannot negotiate at an OB so keep that in mind)

Here are some active listings from our forum:

https://omegaforums.net/threads/ome...te-3861-310-30-42-50-01-001-excellent.173401/

https://omegaforums.net/threads/ome...ite-3861-310-30-42-50-01-001-new-2024.173015/

These are being sold by a well-respected gray Market dealer, but private users have sold a few here as well. Not saying you have to buy here but there is no reason to more than double your $3,000 budget when you can get exactly what you want for 4,500-5,500.

Edit: I think your current approach is the right way to go. First priorities first. Set the what you want, then see if there is a way to achieve that purchase, then dial back as necessary.
Edited:
 
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