What would you do with my 321 Speedy?

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

Hi, all-- Hoping for a few opinions on which way to go with one of my Speedmasters. I picked this one up about 10 years ago. If I am not mistaken, it's a 105.012-65 throughout except for the dial and movement, which appear to be from a 105.003. I always intended to source the pieces to correct it, including a set of vintage hands (it has new replacements). Despite it's imperfections, I have always enjoyed it and don't have any intention of selling it. Just interested in getting it sorted, finally.

What I am not sure about is what makes more sense: find an Ed White body and donate the organs to it, or keep the 105.012 body and find a heart and face transplant for it.

I don't have a super strong preference between the two models, but instead would prefer to end up with something in decent condition at the most affordable cost (hoping I can sell the unused parts to fund the corrections, more or less). For that reason, I'm not interested in any old beat up or over-polished Ed White body just to make it correct. On the other hand, 105.012 movements don't grow on trees, either.

So, what would YOU all do? Please feel free to point out any errors in my thinking or judgement. I'm certainly no expert in these matters and welcome everyone's thoughts.

Here are some pics:

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

And one from straight on:

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

These are iphone shots so apologies if they are not up to snuff.

Shankified · Nov 10, 2019

I’d buy it from you cheap and gift it to my dad as his 70th birthday present. In the most likely event of not being able to afford this, I’d just sit and admire this beauty 😀

chipsotoole · Nov 10, 2019

That's some dilemma! Either way it"s going to set you back a few bob. I think the face and hands transplant may prove to be the more difficult option. The case appears in good condition. ..you did say one of your speedies. Why not leave as is and wear the hell out of it?

ext1 · Nov 10, 2019

Did you look at the back of the caseback and does that say 105.012? How about the serial? I would go by what the caseback and serial says.

BlackTalon · Nov 10, 2019

Definitely a tough call, as the case looks nice (is it an original?). Honestly, I would either keep it as-is, or try to swing both -- make two complete watches. If I had to pick just one, I would try build the watch around the movement and dial. But I would be prepared to wait a long time for a decent case. I suspect that would be easier than finding a good movement that is from the right model Speedmaster.

Davidt · Nov 10, 2019

Do you have an extract confirming the movement is from a 105.003? This is critical as if it's not, this removes one of the options.

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

Davidt
Do you have an extract confirming the movement is from a 105.003? This is critical as if it's not, this removes one of the options.

Good point! I do not. I'm in the states and extracts are a PIA, but maybe that would seal it...

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

BlackTalon
Definitely a tough call, as the case looks nice (is it an original?). Honestly, I would either keep it as-is, or try to swing both -- make two complete watches. If I had to pick just one, I would try build the watch around the movement and dial. But I would be prepared to wait a long time for a decent case. I suspect that would be easier than finding a good movement that is from the right model Speedmaster.

Two complete Speedies is a beautiful thought, but one I am not sure when I will be able to afford!

ext1 · Nov 10, 2019

timoss
Good point! I do not. I'm in the states and extracts are a PIA, but maybe that would seal it...

Omega being omega now probably will take your money and not get you an extract... they won't like that the dial or case is different from whatever serial is in there.

timoss · Nov 10, 2019

ext1
Did you look at the back of the caseback and does that say 105.012? How about the serial? I would go by what the caseback and serial says.

Yes the caseback says 105.012-65 but the movement serial would seem to indicate a 105.003.

ext1 · Nov 10, 2019

timoss
Yes the caseback says 105.012-65 but the movement serial would seem to indicate a 105.003.

Okay, then omega will take your money and not refund you and say your watch is incorrect if you request for extract. So don't.
Then the question is now whether you want to source case+back for an 105.003, or movement+dial for a 105.012...
I would try getting a case+caseback, I feel this is easier than movement+dial. If you just get only the case for now, the watch from the outside will look quite nice as a 105.003. Of course, getting dial for now can make it look like a nice 105.012 too... (I'm partial to the Ed though.)
Who knows, though.. you might find a really good find somewhere and it might be easier to get movement+dial.

Davidt · Nov 10, 2019

Why on earth would anyone consider sourcing a case and caseback without an extract confirming the movement is also from a straight lug. It could be a Seamaster movement.

Before I'd consider going down the new case route, I'd be submitting an extract request either without the case ref, or saying it's a 105.003. I'd rather lose a couple of hundred quid on an extract or two, than spend thousands on a case only to subsequently find out you've created another franken.

ext1 · Nov 10, 2019

Davidt
Why on earth would anyone consider sourcing a case and caseback without an extract confirming the movement is also from a straight lug. It could be a Seamaster movement.

Before I'd consider going down the new case route, I'd be submitting an extract request either without the case ref, or saying it's a 105.003. I'd rather lose a couple of hundred quid on an extract or two, than spend thousands on a case only to subsequently find out you've created another franken.

I agree that confirming the serial is crucial. Back then it would have been easy.. unless there's still a way now that I'm not aware of? (seems like that.) I thought them asking photos means we can't uninclude the case ref anymore. 😕

Davidt · Nov 10, 2019

ext1
I agree that confirming the serial is crucial. Back then it would have been easy.. unless there's still a way now that I'm not aware of? (seems like that.) I thought them asking photos means we can't uninclude the case ref anymore. 😕

I didn't think photos were mandatory unless you were looking at an Ultraman or similar.

Even if they do require a photo, pinch one off google.

ext1 · Nov 10, 2019

Davidt
I didn't think photos were mandatory unless you were looking at an Ultraman or similar.

Even if they do require a photo, pinch one off google.

I read somewhere over here that there's a way to only get the movement confirmed still, but not sure... my understanding was that pics are required.
If it's not mandatory, that would work. The google method might do well too.

joe band · Nov 10, 2019

what's the movement #?

eugeneandresson · Nov 10, 2019

Why do you think the movement is from a 105.003?

chronoboy64 · Nov 10, 2019

timoss
Yes the caseback says 105.012-65 but the movement serial would seem to indicate a 105.003.

Sorry I am a bit confused. For what reason do you think your movement is from a 105.003 and not 105.012.65 ? Aren´t they in nearly the same serial number range ? I mean the 105.003-65 and the 145.012-65
Best

What would you do with my 321 Speedy?

timoss

timoss

timoss

Shankified

chipsotoole

ext1

BlackTalon

Davidt

timoss

timoss

ext1

timoss

ext1

Davidt

ext1

Davidt

ext1

joe band

eugeneandresson

chronoboy64

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