Yes, to each their own.
Your thoughts on PAM?

 

For me, most Rolex look like all other Rolex...

 

I used to be in the "I don't get it camp" and honestly could not fathom what some of my collector friends saw in this brand - I couldn't ever imagine wearing one of these. Then one of my friends from across the country in Vancouver who is a big fan was selling his PAM 210, and he asked if I was interested. He even went so far as to ship me the watch to try for as long as I wanted, so I took him up on the offer. But that was when I considered 40 mm to be a large watch and this was a 45 mm watch, and I also couldn't begin to justify spending $3k (what he was asking at the time) for a watch with such a simple movement that cost about $150 on the open market at the time.

I passed on it and it's one of my few watch regrets. As I started servicing more and more Panerai watches, I started to appreciate the build quality, the ease of service, and the simplicity of design. I was servicing a PAM 104 for a collector, and when he mentioned that he was going to sell it, that sparked a conversation that ended up with me sending him some money and me never sending the watch back.







Of all the watches I own, this is the only one that will get random positive comments from non-watch people. In the end though, I don't really care about that - I like it and that's all the justification I need.

By the way, I went through a very similar process on the Speedmaster. I could not fathom what people saw in such a boring watch, and the whole space connection thing doesn't resonate with me*. But when I started to service them, I came to appreciate the functionality, legibility, and overall design, so again I bought one from a customer that I was servicing it for, and that one I eventually gave to a friend and bought a vintage version.

I know with Panerai there is a segment of collectors who hold them to blame for the large watch shift (I won't call it a fad, because it's clearly not a fad) and who will likely never "forgive" the brand for that. But for those who are willing to give it a try, you might be surprised at how much you like them - I was. Certainly the brand has changed in the last few years, and there have been a lot of criticisms of the direction they have taken, and a lot of that from the most loyal fan base (you won't find more dedicated guys than the Panerai guys in my experience). But I tired one on earlier this year at the airport just outside Seoul on my way through, and nearly bought it, but I hadn't researched it ahead of time to see if the pricing was good enough or not for it to be a deal.

In the end if you don't like the design, that's fine. It's not to everyone's taste, but I don't understand the pure hatred some people have for a wrist watch...

Cheers, Al

* - the space program was a great achievement, but the association with the Speedmaster and Omega's milking of it has me rolling my eyes a lot. It was one of thousands of items that were used during the era, and essentially was an off the shelf item. I have more interest in things that were a challenge in getting people off the earth such as developing a fuel pump that would pump enough to feed the engines - that's a real engineering achievement that I can respect as an engineer.

 

I see where you are coming from. In fact, that is what people usually has told me in past - once you try them you will love them. So I tried and still nothing was warming up.

The love and hate for the wrist watch is a topic for a seperate discussion, or a book?
Speedmaster Moonwatch and pre ceramic Submariner.. well, those are icons for sure, but I happened to take a nap while I was watching them too long.
I do like Diver 300m model, like it as a watch, but not necessary appreciate the fact it is connected with the James Bond theme (which are rather poor shows).

Bottom line, I think that people (we) very ofter over-react in hailing the icons or dissing the watches/brands they do not like for some reasons.

 

I did not like Panerai when I started collecting. Even when I went in and looked at them in a store and tried them on. Then I saw my buddy with one and decided to give it a go. Now I really like them. They are different, very easy to read, comfortable on my wrist and they make me smile. I was surprised and did not ever expect to own one. Certainly less pretentious than my Daytona. I think it fits right in with a Speedy. Just a watch that tells good time and is interesting to look at.

 

I have liked them for a while, mostly due to the simplicity of the style . I am currently wearing my 176 which I must have had for 11 or 12 years now- longer than any other watch.
It gets worn in rotation with a lot of other watches so not all the time however it always keeps good time and never gives me any problems. When the straps wears out I get another - not a big fan of swapping about .
I recently brought a second pvd one- 004B which is getting a lot of wristtime. End up wearing it most of the weekend including cycling and again, seems to be fine.
I like the fact that they tend to be relatively unknown compared to some more mainstream brands so feel a lot less self conscious when wearing it if i have to meet clients.
I find 44mm to be the right size for me.

 

I often see people wearing Panerais. I would even say that after Rolex it’s the watch I see the most in the wild (but maybe just because they are easy to recognize from far away).



I looked at a pam 00682 today - what a cool watch! It’s smaller than your typical Luminor, but that doesn’t have to be a bad thing. However, the list price of 8500€ is not justified IMO.

 

Panerai... What a great history... starting 160 years ago...
https://perezcope.com/

 

This. That other thread with photos of the 50th gala at KSC with a bunch of hired actors standing around? Ugh.

 

Poor after sales service support is one major stumbling block, saying that I do like the look of the Pam722.

 

I can see the irony of it.

 

I'm not a fan of the models with the crown guard jutting out, nor the unusually large crown on others. I like the size and legibility of Panerai but there isn't one that I'd own right now.

 

I love the 682 too, it's on my wish list! I think Panerai are great watches and I really enjoy the historic connections to the Italian Navy and Rolex. I also appreciate the iconic dial and case designs. Most are too large for my small wrist, but they have some nice offerings in 42mm that I find very appealing. As others have mentioned, resale is not great so I would recommend buying used, but proceed with caution. Some modern Panerai replicas are of exceedingly high quality, sometimes even replicating the appearance of the in-house movements. It takes a little extra effort to research the models and vet your seller but there are certainly deals to be had on the secondary market.

 

Panerai- ultracool, especially the originals from WWII. I had 3 originals in my hand one day in Boston at one of the NAWCC hustlers shops. $100k back then each I think...
The thing to consider if it hasnt been stated is - How you getting that watch repaired when it stops or breaks? (every 5 years or so)
Panerai is a Richemont Brand, so they sell no parts outside the dealers or factory service, and that means they charge a lot. Probably 2x or more for service over a SMP automatic.
But they are cool, despite the fade from popularity.

 

Service cost of the in-house movements is a valid concern. However, there are many earlier references with ETA based calibers. These should be no problem for an independent watch maker to service right?

 

Correct.

 

Had a huge collection, sold most due to company complete loss of way, but like the design and I think a 44mm , Luminor case, manual wind (Eta, not in house), is a great looking watch.

 

I've had a couple over the years, including a white dialled one. I won't be getting any more. For me, the movements, heritage and designs don't quite do it for me anymore. However, there was a beautiful one I saw recently with some lovely sky blue accents which did look superb. I think I'm contradicting myself! On balance though, I'm out.

 

I service ETA based Panerai's all the time. As long as all that is required are movement parts and seals for the case, there's no problem with an independent watchmaker servicing these.

 

The movement is what students get their first semester of watchmaking school nowadays. Its deceptively simple, but if the independent watchmaker scratches a hand, dial, looses a screw, or needs a gasket (as they should during service) then they are out of luck. You think it doesnt happen, but working in factory service and as an independent, I have seen damage to the nicest watches that have gone to untrained or sloppy watch repair guys (prob not real trained watchmakers). Forget about the newer movements made by JLC or Blancpain or Breguet for the various models.
Still if you put $25/month aside for service, in 5 years there would be enough to service the watch likely. $20 x 60 months= $1200
That is my calculus- $10-20-30-40 per month is what "cost of ownership" is- keeping it in good condition is how it will stand the test of time.
Good hunting!