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What’s your thought on Panerai watches?

  1. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jun 19, 2019

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    Seals are readily available for these watches - I replace them all the time. As you note the movements are simple - both the ETA 6497 based watches and the ETA 7750 based watches.

    As for the risk of scratching a dial or hand, if that is a concern for someone then they should probably take up another profession. To eliminate servicing watches based on this concern alone would mean that any vintage watch would never get serviced, since the dials and hands are essentially irreplaceable. If it's something an individual watchmaker is comfortable with or not is something they have to decide for themselves. But servicing watches where various parts like dial and hands are not available as replacements is a daily occurrence for most watchmakers.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  2. AriTheWatchmaker Jun 19, 2019

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    Do you advise people that you use generic gaskets? I always make that known.
    Plenty of people working in the trade are just self taught minstrels that decided to hang out a shingle as a repair shop. Ever been to NYC, Boston, or any big city? Always plenty of guys advertising Rolex and patek repairs with no parts access.
    My work experience and training show plenty of people claim to be able to service "anything", but it is very specific.
    I see the worst repairs out there, because I have been the last stop for all the sad watches for years.
    When I ran the 7750-workshop at breitlingusa, we saw ugly ugly botched work everyday. Young watchmakers scratch $500 dials every day in a real factory workshop. That is part of the biz. But the companies dont care about the cost of parts because they pay less than 10 cents on the dollar what we pay for the same part...now that is even more extreme with chinese manufacturing out of the picture for the swiss.
    You can have your opinion, Archer, but i dont know you or your work or what your customers think.
    Speaking generally there is a risk getting a watch that no parts are available for, and that is where the discussion started...any omega is infinitely more serviceable at present than any richemont brand product like panerai.
     
  3. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jun 19, 2019

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    What do you mean by "generic"? In most cases the gaskets I use are Omega branded, even for brands that are not Omega. But in the end, a nitrile gasket is nothing special - they are all the same material in different sizes.

    Correct, you don't know me or my work. But thanks for letting me have my opinion.

    Cheers, Al
     
  4. AriTheWatchmaker Jun 19, 2019

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    There are nitrile and butyl and butyl-N and Buna-N gaskets, with just little differences in hardness etc...I have done work in this as I was a machine designer originally.
    So you are not referring to panerai in particular, as nobody gets crystal gaskets from them. Most all others are available for casebacks or pushers etc.
    Rolex started watching gasket sales with movement parts sales about 10+ years ago. So generic was not an option if you wanted to keep your account you had to buy gaskets from them at 1000% markup ($3ea and $.03ea to make)
     
  5. desertwanderer Jun 19, 2019

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    Isn't that a markup of 100 times...? Just saying.
     
  6. Archer Omega Qualified Watchmaker Jun 19, 2019

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    Since you are want to throw credentials around, I am a mechanical engineer first - watchmaking is a second career for me. I fully understand what the seals are made of and what is suitable for a simple application like a watch case. If you want to make this into some argument that's your choice, but we both know that there are plenty of seals available out there that are of the highest quality that can be had in pretty much any size. It's simply not an issue.

    Again if these were concerns that were "real" no one would ever service a vintage watch from a brand that no longer exists or where parts are no longer available. This argument simply doesn't make sense. Yes there is risk anytime a watch is opened up, but training and proper shop practices do a lot to mitigate those risks.

    Cheers, Al
     
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  7. Millenary Watches Jun 19, 2019

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    Panerai is quite a niche brand for a focused group of people. I appreciate Panerai for what they are, but has never appealed to me very much.;)
     
  8. Bushido Jun 19, 2019

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    There are nowhere near enough pics in this thread!
    upload_2019-6-19_13-31-18.jpeg
     
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  9. Larry S Color Commentator for the Hyperbole. Jun 19, 2019

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    I was ogling at the Harrod's in Heathrow T2 last Friday. Gotta say that were I not easing into retirement, I might go for one of the smaller case sizes. They also look great on custom straps like those from Aaron Bespoke or the one above.
     
  10. dputydwg1 Jun 19, 2019

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    I got no desire for a Panerai
     
  11. Sirjojo Jun 19, 2019

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    I had a couple Penny couple of years ago, a 40mm and a 44mm. Sold the 40mm cuz everyone had the 44mm, but later sold the 44mm (pam104 I think) cuz it was too heavy. Saw this sub couple of weeks ago and decided to give it a try again. Absolutely love it, not as heavy and love the look
     
    355F7B2D-0257-42A4-9CB6-2B5C09E69601.png
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  12. Vale21 Jul 8, 2019

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    Have a 233 that I don't want anymore. Here is my thougt.

    Kiding I really love that brand. Watch have strong identity.

    For wrist is just too small to keep it.
     
  13. Stufflers Mom Jul 8, 2019

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    People are free to use whoever they like for servicing, but I wouldn't be trusting any of my watches to anything other than the manufacturer, especially one who would fit non oem parts.
     
  14. Walrus Jul 9, 2019

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    Damn that’s 58mm, yes you wear it well. I just can’t get into these monster watches. I wish we could go back to the 50’s. I love the layout of the pans but that crown guard is way too much
     
  15. Gamma Jul 10, 2019

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    I used to be a fan, then I went off them. Too big, too bulky, too many fakes.. Then I saw the 42mm rose gold submersible somewhere which "spoke" to me and got me interested in the brand again.

    Ultimately decided against the sub as even in gray market was too expensive. Also 42mm just seemed small for a panerai. I even tried it on at a Panerai boutique and the sales lady also said it would feel small after a few days. And I haven't got big wrists BTW.

    Anyway, I finally saw and liked the radiomir which has that Panerai brand feel without the crown guard and altogether felt a little more classy, more refined. YMMV

    Here it is, I'm wearing it today funnily enough IMG_20190710_111312.jpg
     
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  16. Martin_J_N Jul 10, 2019

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    I like the look of some of the Panerai models, the Radiomir being my favourite due to the clear uncluttered dial, the simplistic lines all work for me but as yet I haven't had the courage to take my interest beyond looking from afar.

    This is partly due to the mixed messages that come out of various watch forums and on-line reviews. Every time I think I have made my mind up to start looking at the make more seriously I see or hear a string of negative comments about the movements, servicing or build quality and back away.

    Maybe I just need to grow a backbone and go and have a look and stop thinking of the negatives as Panerai really are great looking watches.
     
  17. Gamma Jul 10, 2019

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    Martin, I read the same and I gather in the past that was the case. I believe a few years ago they brought manufacturing in-house, built a new facility and assemble the movements themselves. Hopefully /apparently that has led to an improvement in build quality and for me it's been fine so far. Servicing I can't speak to though
     
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  18. Martin_J_N Jul 10, 2019

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    Which Panerai watch or watches do you have, is/are it/they new or well exposed to life on a wrist?
     
  19. Gamma Jul 10, 2019

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    Just the one in the photo directly above! I've only had it 3 months though and worn for about 2 weeks total so cant really say
     
  20. jhross98 Jul 10, 2019

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    I've had 2 of the newer blue dial 42mm luminor due.. One in steel one in titanium. Both nice clean look but neither stuck... I think the brand has lost a lot of luster and the vintage market in particular is dead and not coming back