Vintage Seamaster pre-purchase help/questions...TIA

Posts
19
Likes
4
First off, thanks in advance for any insight, such a welcome to find this forum. I started looking at redials and after reading here for a while was convinced there were better ways to spend my money...although some redials look quite enticing. I've been researching Seamaster's in the 60's era, but am running out of time to research before this particular auction ends. I was hoping to find a decent black dial on stainless seamaster, however as you know most are redials. After looking through all the available catalogs I could find from the 60's, I noticed none have black dials. Also noticed that none of the catalogs had crosshairs, so probably there's a lot of room for additional features not listed in the catalog.
While I have a ton of questions, I'll stick to the subject (mostly). I reached out to the seller and they claim to have purchased from the original owner and this item is untouched, except for removal of the back for pictures. Wondering your thoughts on the validity of the dial. Also, what do you think about the spots on the movement? Thanks, -Jeremy
Edited:
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
MORE....1965, Stainless Seamaster DeVille, 66.020, 562, 24 jewels, 34mm, 8X signed.
 
Posts
13,441
Likes
31,613
The dial looks fine as does the movement, except it is in need of a complete service ($150-250 US).

Photos of the assembled watch front, back and inside the case would be helpful and where is the price now?
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
BTW, thanks for your post. It's at 1500USD, but I have zero inclination of value...other than looking at other vintage seamaster options under $2k USD. Buying a second omega (other is a Ti 300M Chrono bought new in '01) with plans to keep and wear frequently.

Was also watching this one (under 500USD, claims all original), but it looks suspicious to me because 1) the two A's in automatic aren't identical 2) the two 'e' in seamaster aren't at the same angle 3) the transition from S to T in seamaster looks blotchy 4) and the middle leg of the "M" looks offcenter...OR I could be just seeing things..which is why I'm on this forum.
Edited:
 
Posts
3,172
Likes
7,325
The first does look excellent but, as noted above, is going to need a service. I don't see any service marks on that caseback nor so much as a scratch on a screw slot, so it probably never has been opened. Still, at 1500 (USD?) that's really strong. I can understand the price given the condition but this isn't a really desirable model so it's at, if not already above, its top end.

The second has far too many reflections to tell for sure but the dial seems fine. The case is showing a fair few scars from daily life (and rough strap changes) but, again, seems honest.
 
Posts
1,061
Likes
1,939
Agreed , you can do so much better if you're going to fork out 1500. It's in great condition but not really going to get any pulses racing! That sort of cash would get you a plethora of top notch vintage 60's Omega automatics with ALL the trimmings..papers, extract, box etc.
Suggest you take a step back and take your time. We're here and there is plenty to read and research here..I understand your concern with redials: just keep asking I'm not very good at spotting them, others here can make a career out of it!
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
All great advice, thanks for everyone's insight. I'm glad I posted the second watch, already learning a lot from your posts. Can you point me to a thread of sites I should be watching? I would love to find something with all the trimmings...
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
QUESTION: Is it worth it to purchase a modified watch, IE: non-original omega crown, and have the correct crown installed during service? Details:1965, 166.002, 552mvmt, new crystal unspecified if omega, claims original dial, <$300USD; The original crown was replaced with a larger omega crown for handling.
 
Posts
5,440
Likes
9,310
I believe the typical OF collector would seek to swap in a correct crown if one is available, especially if it would be installed as part of a service. But the 'is it worth it?' is entirely up to you.
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
Any insight on validity of this example? GIVEN: Geneve, 165.070, 35mm, 552mvmt, signed crystal, signed crown; CLAIMS: unpolished, not restored, dial/mvmt/crown/case original. Looking on vintage omega db 165.0070 has different crown...can I use this REF to compare? TIA
 
Posts
1,502
Likes
5,696
Relume probably if you look at the different colours of the lume used. Crown isn't the right one

One of mine
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
Ah, yes, I see now. BTW, what a beautiful example. Thanks for sharing.
Should there be or not be "T" on either side of "SWISS MADE" for lume?
 
Posts
3,133
Likes
5,560
Any insight on validity of this example? GIVEN: Geneve, 165.070, 35mm, 552mvmt, signed crystal, signed crown; CLAIMS: unpolished, not restored, dial/mvmt/crown/case original. Looking on vintage omega db 165.0070 has different crown...can I use this REF to compare? TIA

An obvious redial. Swiss Made in the wrong place for starters.
 
Posts
19
Likes
4
Copy, thanks for everyone’s time. Despite this example, I am working to read and learn more every day on each collection, just started a couple weeks ago.