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To restore my 105.003 or not, and how...

ACC1965
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Greetings!

I have inherited a wonderful 105.003. It was serviced in 2004 by Omega and I believe at this time some of the original parts (bezel, crown, and hands) were replaced. The bracelet is not original but am unsure when that was changed.

I love wearing the watch; its feel, look, and history. I wanted some community weigh in...

I could keep the watch the way it is, as the changes are part of it's history. But if I am leaning towards restoring it to it's original glory, should I attempt to resource old hands, bezel, and crown? Or old hands and bezel (so their wear compliments the watch) but use a new omega 321 crown? Or go new all around? (I believe the new bezel is ceramic not metal like the originally).

Full disclosure, I am not a purist and changed the back to a sapphire back allowing me to appreciate the complex mechanism. I am keeping all original parts which will stay with the watch when, god willing, one of my children or grandchildren inherit the watch.

On a side note, the lug distance has grown over the past 60 years and metal bracelets now rattle. I am experimenting with buying a 20mm and sanding/polishing it down to 19.5 but have also thrown a leather band on which resolves the problem but changes the esthetic.

Thank you and cheers!
IMG_6727.jpg IMG_6728.jpg IMG_6725.jpg
 
mseamaster
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ACC1965 ACC1965
Greetings!

I have inherited a wonderful 105.003. It was serviced in 2004 by Omega and I believe at this time some of the original parts (bezel, crown, and hands) were replaced. The bracelet is not original but am unsure when that was changed.

I love wearing the watch; its feel, look, and history. I wanted some community weigh in...

I could keep the watch the way it is, as the changes are part of it's history. But if I am leaning towards restoring it to it's original glory, should I attempt to resource old hands, bezel, and crown? Or old hands and bezel (so their wear compliments the watch) but use a new omega 321 crown? Or go new all around? (I believe the new bezel is ceramic not metal like the originally).

Full disclosure, I am not a purist and changed the back to a sapphire back allowing me to appreciate the complex mechanism. I am keeping all original parts which will stay with the watch when, god willing, one of my children or grandchildren inherit the watch.

On a side note, the lug distance has grown over the past 60 years and metal bracelets now rattle. I am experimenting with buying a 20mm and sanding/polishing it down to 19.5 but have also thrown a leather band on which resolves the problem but changes the esthetic.

Thank you and cheers!
IMG_6727.jpg IMG_6728.jpg IMG_6725.jpg
It looks gorgeous as it is to me!

As for the rattling - can I suggest a small rubber ring or two? The diameter should be small enough and it should be transparent so you don't see it when you look at the watch. And also a tiny bit silicone grease so it doesn't get destroyed from the constant rubbing between the lug and the chain.
 
Donn Chambers
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The crown and bezel don’t bother me as much as those hands! The seconds hand is wrong for this model, and they are so white! I would definitely look for some period correct hands for this one. The bezel is going to be harder and costly, but would improve the look.

Omega should have returned the old parts. Any chance you still have them stashed somewhere?
 
timoss
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Hard question to answer as it comes down to personal preference. If it were me, I would at least swap out the hands, which are MUCH too new and bright.
 
zedlebowski
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I second (or third) that - the hands really jump out. Cool watch - congrats!
 
Tubber
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The only thing that really jumps out is the hands. I would either try to get an original Tritium set or at least get the correct teardrop second hand and get it relumed. I am not a purist either and I did the same thing to an Ed White a while back. More of a Resto-Mod than an authentic restoration but means it is good for everyday wear without bothering about it too much. Your dial looks good so I would leave it. I had the dial and hands relumed. I had a spare DON bezel and stuck that on. A Heuerville strap for the cold season and an Uncle Seiko for the rest of the year.
OF1 copy.jpg
 
ACC1965
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Is the teardrop absolutely correct? I saw this photo of Luvell's speedmaster, and it appears to have the same crown and second hand (chrono hand?) that mine does... obviously with original tritium which mine does not.

something-a-little-different-jim-lovells-speedmaster-from-v0-20pct8zive2a1.jpg
 
padders
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ACC1965 ACC1965
Is the teardrop absolutely correct? I saw this photo of Luvell's speedmaster, and it appears to have the same crown and second hand (chrono hand?) that mine does... obviously with original tritium which mine does not.

something-a-little-different-jim-lovells-speedmaster-from-v0-20pct8zive2a1.jpg
All that means is that Lovell's was serviced at some point. No Ed White came with a flat end chrono and it is my belief that all came with the 24 tooth crown originally. Indeed the flat end hand wasn't seen before the middle of 1968. Flat end hands and 32 tooth crowns were typically added at service.
 
Dan S
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Didn't they return the original parts?
 
NotJackson
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I agree with the consensus above … the handset looks all wrong, like a set of modern wheels on a vintage sports car. That’s the one thing I would definitely try to change. It might be nice to find a correct dot-over-90 bezel, but that could get pricey.
 
ACC1965
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I purchased a DON look alike from Spiralwinder Watch Part. It has some subtle differences so it won't be confused with an original, but will provide me with the esthetic until I have saved enough to pull that trigger.
 
ACC1965
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Not sure if having an official non-DON bezel. or non-official DON bezel is better. But those are my options right now. haha
 
M'Bob
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padders padders
All that means is that Lovell's was serviced at some point. No Ed White came with a flat end chrono and it is my belief that all came with the 24 tooth crown originally. Indeed the flat end hand wasn't seen before the middle of 1968. Flat end hands and 32 tooth crowns were typically added at service.

Im not doubting you at all, mind you, just curious: if 105.003 was made until 1969, none of the very late ones had the flat-end chrono hand either?
 
padders
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M'Bob M'Bob
Im not doubting you at all, mind you, just curious: if 105.003 was made until 1969, none of the very late ones had the flat-end chrono hand either?
I suppose it is a theoretical possibility but I'm not entirely convinced they were made that late, at least in any great numbers (vs delivered that late). I've never seen one with an accepted flat bottom hand but it would need to be very late indeed with a serial in the 26m region. William has the EW serial range topping out at 25.44m. MWO have a wider range its true but the vast majority of Ed Whites seem to have been made between 1966 and 1968 which is just too early. I've seen a few of very late examples with the 145.003 stamps or papers and those had spear hands too. I suppose I should have added that MWO are pretty clear that the only the spear hand was fitted to the 105.003/145.003.
Edited:
 
DON
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Don't know if this will work, but put hands in a jar of dirt and then place on a watch winder and let them rotate for a few weeks (check every few days) to try and age the paint.

Luminous. Try dipping in different colored teas to see if luminous will age and take on a different color

Could be hit or miss

Side note and based off the Lovejoy mystery novels. In order fake age ivory. Items were dipped in tea to give them an antique look
 
ACC1965
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Full disclosure: other than changing the back of the case from original to a window back, I have never worked on a watch.

I am buying some tools but will experiment in an inexpensive pocket watch, then watch, then simple omega before even thinking about removing and touching this watch (maybe I am overdoing it, but I love this watch!!!!).

Tea could work, my only concern would be with offgassing. The ivory is in the open but the hands are en an enclosed container. Degradation of organic molecules will alter the pH inside the case and have unknown results. Or not- I’m not an expert.
 
ACC1965
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Tubber Tubber
The only thing that really jumps out is the hands. I would either try to get an original Tritium set or at least get the correct teardrop second hand and get it relumed. I am not a purist either and I did the same thing to an Ed White a while back. More of a Resto-Mod than an authentic restoration but means it is good for everyday wear without bothering about it too much. Your dial looks good so I would leave it. I had the dial and hands relumed. I had a spare DON bezel and stuck that on. A Heuerville strap for the cold season and an Uncle Seiko for the rest of the year.
OF1 copy.jpg
Those are beautiful hands. Did you relume them yourself?
 
Tubber
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ACC1965 ACC1965
Those are beautiful hands. Did you relume them yourself?
Relume them myself? No, I wouldn't attempt that. They were done by a professional.
 
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