Thoughts on this 1990 Speedmaster 145.022 (or 3590?)

RushDom · May 30, 2022

All, I would value your expertise here. I am looking at picking up my first Speedmaster and have come across the example below.

No box or papers - doesn’t bother me in the slightest, but it does make pinpointing this watch trickier than I anticipated. A few questions if I may:

- This is being sold as a 1990 145.022 but I believe this is actually a slightly later 3590…correct? Serial begins with 48.
- Hands are definitely a service replacement with SuperLuminova. Bezel has an accent above the ‘e’ - this must therefore also be a later service replacement, correct?
- Case has definitely been polished but it looks acceptable enough to me - thoughts?

Part of me thinks I should just spend the extra money and plump for a new 3861, but there’s something about the colour of the tritium lume that I can’t resist…

Thanks in advance.

alakapla1 · May 30, 2022

I've had two speedies. 1 vintage and 1 modern. Go with whichever sings to you most.
Regarding vintage, don't compromise. Get exactly what you want. Mine had replacement hands and was polished. This really annoyed me after a couple of months and ended up selling it

Vintage Lemania · May 30, 2022

That patina does look very nice. Not too dark, and just enough to give a unique vintage look. It's a shame that the hands are luminova replacements.

Stripey · May 30, 2022

My (inexpert) thought - a 1996 3570.50, given the number. Be interested to hear from an authority.

Aludic · May 30, 2022

Good first assessment @RushDom !

Judging by the number, I’d go with 1997. Watch appears to be in a pretty nice state, although I do suspect you’re right concerning the hands being a service replacement.

Back to 1997 being the likely year of production; the bezel could actually be original.

Ultimately, the purchase decision would be down to (1) whether you like it and (2) wether the price is right. These are great entry level vintage Speedmasters and still comparatively easy to obtain, so I’d be picky. 😉

Donn Chambers · May 30, 2022

While the dial lume looks nice, the fact the hands were replaced ruins it for me. If you think you can live with the mismatch, then it looks nice otherwise. It I suspect you’d always wish you had matching hands.

Sa Calobra · May 31, 2022

Stripey
My (inexpert) thought - a 1996 3570.50, given the number. Be interested to hear from an authority.

Not sure if I read correctly, but if the serial starts with 48, it can even be a model from 1986 (31 Dec 1986 is 48221238). Now looking at the bezel it's probably from the 90's, but based on the serial, it could well be 1990.

padders · May 31, 2022

Sa Calobra
Not sure if I read correctly, but if the serial starts with 48, it can even be a model from 1986 (31 Dec 1986 is 48221238). Now looking at the bezel it's probably from the 90's, but based on the serial, it could well be 1990.

See the caseback picture above, the full serial is visible, it is 48.37m which using www.Ilovemyspeedmaster.com does point to manufacture circa 1997, and supports the suggestion it could be an early 3570.50. The mismatch in hands and dial is unfortunate and would annoy me long term. Finding good sets of tritium hands is now tricky and expensive.

Sa Calobra · May 31, 2022

padders
See the casebook picture above, the full serial is visible, it is 48.37m which using www.Ilovemyspeedmaster.com does point to manufacture circa 1997, and supports the suggestion it could be an early 3570.50. The mismatch in hands and dial is unfortunate and would annoy me long term. Finding good sets of tritium hands is now tricky and expensive.

I must be getting blind or there is a bug..I don't see any casebook picture. Anyway if it's 4837.. I agree

Stripey · May 31, 2022

Case back, and yes, that's where I got the serial number from to check.

RushDom · May 31, 2022

Thanks all for your expertise and wisdom - greatly appreciated. I’ve now seen pictures of the movement (serial matches up with the case) and it’s definitely an 1861 which means this must be mid 1990s (1996 onwards?).

The mismatch on the hands is unfortunate but isn’t a dealbreaker for me personally. 😀

Sa Calobra · May 31, 2022

Stripey
Case back, and yes, that's where I got the serial number from to check.

ok sorry!

As of when did they start to put the serial numbers on the back of the lugs?

Stripey · May 31, 2022

Sa Calobra
ok sorry!

As of when did they start to put the serial numbers on the back of the lugs?

Definitely no need for apologies! There's a thread about the lug serial numbers here (I had to look it up, because I didn't know either) https://omegaforums.net/threads/when-did-omega-start-putting-serial-numbers-on-lugs.21250/

RushDom · Jun 1, 2022

All, I purchased the watch and it arrived today. The dial is absolutely beautiful but there is one point of concern I have - one of the springbar lug holes looks quite close to the edge of the case, I’m guessing through a combination of enlargement over time and polishing.

Would this worry you enough to consider returning it?

Slevin kelevra · Jun 1, 2022

What do the other holes look like for those of us who dont have a strapless Speedy on hand?

To my eye the overall look of the watch is good. The hands dont look too bad to me and if the price was right, it certainly wouldnt bother me. Ive seen far worse that is for sure.

RushDom · Jun 1, 2022

The other holes are pretty close, but after looking at other examples of my watch online it seems many of them do sit very close.

These are the other three holes:

bulldog77 · Jun 1, 2022

For reference, my circa 1993 3590.50:

RushDom · Jun 1, 2022

bulldog77
For reference, my circa 1993 3590.50:

Interesting - thanks. Yours do sit quite close to the edge too although clearly my case has taken quite a bit more polishing. Still not sure how to feel about this!

bulldog77 · Jun 1, 2022

Mmm, yes it's a tricky one depending on how much it bothers you. I'm like you, I like the creamy lume and so I narrowed it down to the early 90s models and had to be patient. I guess for you it's a little more complicated as you were considering a brand new model, which I wasn't.

Just for further reference on mine I'll add a pic of the case profile. I don't know the history of it, I bought it around 6 months ago basically in 'as-found' condition no box or papers with little to no polishing and plenty of small nicks and nibbles here and there. Really it ticked all the boxes for me as I was happy to get an example that had seen use but what I think of as 'authentic' use; which is what I'm happy to buy in (what is to me still) a tool watch.

I'll be getting it a sympathetic service and clean at some stage - the money has had to go into one or two other non-watch things lately. In the meantime it has seen sparing use.

RushDom · Jun 1, 2022

@bulldog77 thanks for your wisdom! Your watch looks absolutely beautiful.

I ultimately decided to return it to the dealer I purchased it from - it was a beautiful watch but I just felt like I’d never be happy with it, particularly for the money I paid. The case had definitely seen one too many polishes for my liking.

What I have learned from this, though, is that I definitely want a Speedy - I just am willing to wait for the right one. Perhaps that’s a current 3861…I will have think.

Thoughts on this 1990 Speedmaster 145.022 (or 3590?)

RushDom

alakapla1

Vintage Lemania

Stripey

Aludic

Donn Chambers

Sa Calobra

padders

Sa Calobra

Stripey

RushDom

Sa Calobra

Stripey

RushDom

Slevin kelevra

RushDom

bulldog77

RushDom

bulldog77

RushDom

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