The second deadly sin of the watch restorer - reluming. Ed White content

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Amazing work - I'm not a collector at this level, but I would gladly wear this watch and not think for a minute about whether it was original lume or not. Your approach of using original materials would erase any issues, for me anyways.
Edited:
 
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That is a truly excellent job. Personally, I prefer a sympathetic restoration over something that is not that appealing but original. If original methods are used, I have no issue. For example, when restoring my father's 1926 Humber, we hand painted it. The result was a much closer representation of the original finish than if we had sprayed it using modern 2K paint and created a perfect 'show' finish.
 
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Not a sin, but just a great job!👍 It will become a sin once some dealer/seller forgets to tell us about it!
 
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Excellent work! The added contrast your restoration gave that face really makes it 'pop' (for lack of a better term).
 
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Just a small question, why refinishing the case is the first sin? The added material is exactly the same has it was... no?
 
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Cannot help but admire how great the watch looks after, what must have been, a very delicate process.
 
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this is one forgivable sin IMO, excellent job Adam! 👍
 
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Why is that?
If relumes are indistinguishable from original dials, then The Unscrupulous will not disclose the details.
 
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How well does the new lume work? Is a pic possible?
Personally, I think a tasteful restoration is tasteful; i.e. it is totally a matter of opinion. In this case, I prefer the restoration.
It wouldn't bother me about a reseller not mentioning it, just as I don't expect a list of part replacements over the years.
 
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How well does the new lume work? Is a pic possible?
Personally, I think a tasteful restoration is tasteful; i.e. it is totally a matter of opinion. In this case, I prefer the restoration.
It wouldn't bother me about a reseller not mentioning it, just as I don't expect a list of part replacements over the years.

I'll try to get a glow pic compared to a super luminova service dial 😉
 
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I've woken this morning to a lot of positive comments, thanks guys! I was honestly expecting the flame torch. The question of value will always come up with this kind of work. For my part, I keep records of watches I've worked on - as far as possible anyway.

For me I see this like the case work, if it looks, feels and tastes like factory spec then it will only add value.

Unfortunately I cannot clone this watch as it was and sell them both to see the result, however my feeling is the relumed one will go for more.
 
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I would pay more for it.
Other people wouldn't.

Skilled work like this allows people a choice. Nobody wants to buy a lumpy, ugly thing. Or a vintage piece that glows like an arc light.
 
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Ok so I've just taken some glow pics and tried to be as scientific as possible lol. I put two new dials on small pieces of pith wood to raise them to about the same height as the cased up Speedy dial. Then exposed them to a very strong LED desk lamp ( my Watchmakers desk lamp ) for two minutes.

I then photographed them as soon as possible after turning the light off and starting the chronograph.



At six seconds post exposure


At 15 seconds post exposure


At 30 seconds post exposure


At 45 seconds post exposure


At 1 minute post exposure


To my eyes the glow of Ed had pretty much gone after 20 seconds. The camera set to 3200iso saw it slightly differently.
 
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You may well ask what the first sin is. That's easy, case refinishing...

I've just had the pleasure of acquiring an Ed White Speedy in need of some work. Just the usual issues with a lazy 12 hour counter reset and poor positional time keeping -;is general grubbiness. It had been serviced in October 2016 somewhere in New York but I doubt much time or effort was invested. It seems that particular watchmaker was a fan of graphite grease as it was liberally smeared pretty much everywhere.

Anyway, the servicing went fairly well as expected and then came the issue of what to do with the hands which had been repainted in gloss / satin white with brown paint instead of lume. I stripped them of their paint and put them to one side.

The dial had a reasonable amount of lume intact but it was of the green black variety which to me signals contamination with oils at some point.

Some time ago I got obsessed with researching the type of paint used on these and other tritium dials and managed to actually find some. The main aim of the research was to find out why the colour changed over time. I was also curious why some old dials still glow a bit and others are totally dead.

As a very quick summary it appears to be because of moisture in the air rather than keeping the watch in a dark place. Also the variability of the amount of tritium actually used in the paint appears to be a factor. Tritium can only be made in useful quantities in a nuclear reactor, it is therefore horrifically expensive.

Old dials do sometimes glow and sometimes they do not. It is not a definitive answer to whether or not a dial has been relumed with non glowing paint. Using a black light will tell you if the paint is the correct type.

So I decided to relume this Ed White..... Reluming with superluminova has never had any appeal to me. If I'm going to do something I want to do it the way the factory did or at least get the result they got.

The paint I used is essentially identical to what the watch companies used and is made from Zinc Sulphide. Or in other words Zinc and Sulphur powder set alight which performs a chemical reaction. It is often 'doped' with copper to increase the glow.

On its own this paint glows feebly compared to superluminova but in its day this way pretty good stuff and obviously safer than radium. The downside is that the glow does not last very long after exposure to light and so the tritium was added. Again on its own tritium does not glow but in the paint mix it bombards the ZnS crystal structure causing a kind of phosphorescence which glows until the tritium becomes exhausted or it degrades the crystal structure to a point where it no longer works.

Tritium has a very short half life and in watches this old it is debatable whether it can even be detected. It is certainly not active in making phosphorescence within the ZnS.

So if your old watch still glows a bit then goes dim all that's happening is the light is exciting what's left of the ZnS crystal structure - the Tritium is gone, long gone.

Anyway, the results are below. I have aged the new paint and mixed it partly with what was left on the dial.

Under black light this will behave like the original paint, because it is the original paint. Over time it will age like the original paint too, it has the same granular structure and opacity.

As with refinishing, my opinion is that a relume can be done in keeping with the character of the watch. I've proved time and again that a carefully and properly refinished watch sells for often much more than the beat up original one. I believe that a relume done with the original materials can also add value, not detract.

Gee I must like to be controversial huh. Actually no, I'm just trying to do things properly. It's taken a lot of research, time and effort to get to this stage.

In the pics I did redo the centre seconds hand a bit so you may see some differences there.

As delivered;


During and after servicing;
Excellent result Adam. Lewis Watch Co should be renamed Lewis Watch Labs .
 
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Great work all-round, @photo500

This really pops as is -





As to price ... likely same as any other Ed White in similar shape.

Great work!!