Speedmaster DON bezel height

Hi guys,

Thought I had a decent knowledge of vintage Speedys, from what I have read all DON bezel has a height of 1.85 mm. I have bought this 2998-5

Yes, you might have seen it before here att OF 😉 Anyway, I do not find the original bezel attractive so I have sourced a better one that comes from a 105.012 or 145.012. I did not think it would be any issues at all replacing the original one with the new one... They both have the same inner and outer diameter, give or take 2/100 of a millimeter, but the height of the old insert is 1.85 mm and the height of the new one is 2.1 mm. According to my watchmaker that is not uncommon so what he suggests is to lathe it down to 1.85 mm.

Well, what I actually want to ask is: how can it come that the height differs between an old DON and a newer one? I am also curious about the construction, the watchmaker says that there is a metal ring attached to the insert, is it so. I mean, we always refer to the bezel as "the bezel", we do not say a DON insert. I have a couple of vintage Rolex watches and for them there is a clear distinction about what is a bezel and what is an insert.

Cheers,
Hans

yes, there is the SS metal "body" and an insert of aluminum (if I recall correctly)

Thanks mac_omega 😀 So the height of 1.85 mm is actually from the “bottom of the body” to the top of the aluminum insert?

No, the (upper) rim of the SS body is the highest point, the insert sits very little deeper because it is inserted as its name suggests 😀

Thanks again, so then it actually should be a "DON insert" and not a "DON bezel" I guess, as the SS body is not something that is exclusive for DON inserts.

Anyway, what are your thoughts about the SS body not always being exactly 1.85 mm in height?

Can we see some photos of the replacement bezel that is 2.1mm thick? Which part of the bezel has this extra thickness? Which side will he turn down?

Here is a picture of the bezel that I took when I received it. The bezel and the watch is with the watchmaker so I cannot take a photo of it from the side showing its height. Well, I do not know for sure which side of that will be turned down, I have to ask him but I sure hope it is the side facing down towards the case.

@mac_omega, I should have taken a closer look at the picture, now I clearly see what you mean and I understand the construction of the bezel.

Got an answer from the watchmaker, it is as I thought, the bottom of the bezel will be adjusted

Got two pictures from the watchmaker today that made me very happy 😀

The watch is still with the watchmaker, I have asked him to service it for me

Thanks for your kind words about my watch 😀 Yes, I will enjoy it, especially when I put on the 1792/6 bracelet, I love the vintage flatlink bracelets