I have hesitated to share the following life changing story, primarily because I consider it a spectacular personal failing, but since we are on the topic of extreme heat I feel its important to share....FYI, it's long.
I'm going to
bold and italic all the key errors I made during this adventure.
Back in May I went to Las Vegas with my wife, as we did 2yrs ago. Stayed at the Vdara(and by the way, rooms above floor 52 are the best views in Vegas-I'd sit up at 2am just staring out at the city through the panorama windows.....ain't cheap, but worth every penny)
I rented a mountain bike and got a ride out to Bootleg Canyon. No one else in the van, nobody else in the parking lot when we got there.
Starting to feel just a bit uneasy
being alone...but hey I've got this mountain all to myself now (a thought I would rue later)
2yrs ago I went to the same place to ride and had a blast but only stayed on the trails around the parking lot...this time I wanted to venture to the back side of the mountain..
the more remote, but more beautiful locations.
They gave me a map of all the trails, I would later find out
were not to scale. The trails on the backside of the mountain are much longer than on the front side, but to fit it all on one page they made the trail loops look shorter.
The quickest way to access the other side of the mountain was to
ride up and over the top, about 1500ft vertical from where I was. That took me an hour and about a third of my water.
Turns out, on the backside of the mountain, the
trails are rougher, harder and steeper than on the front. primarily because few ride back there and they don't get worn in.
I figured I'd pick trails that gradually worked my way back to the front side by going around the mountain, which turned out to also be
the most desolate trails.
The trails
were poorly marked compared to the frontside with many intersecting paths not on the map.
Went several miles, stopping more frequently as it heated up...took pictures etc. Used up another third of water.
Realizing what water I have left, and the heat(utterly clear sky blazing sun), I started to calculate how far was left and
felt confident even if I used up the water I could still get back to the parking lot in good order.
Now about 4hrs in, temps were over 100. Went a few more miles and
used up the rest of water.
Well, the parking lot has to just be around the next hill. Said that to myself about 20 times until I realized I was getting in trouble. The surface temp was well over 100, full blinding sun and no relief despite the map saying I should be much further along.
I rode about 100yds and stopped to sit down. Did that about 10 times.
Then I started to walk the bike as I could not pedal anymore. Walked about 100ft then stopped to sit down. Did that about 10 times.
I suddenly(and way too late)began to realize
heat stroke occurring, as I must be delirious because I was stopping to rest in the full sun.
There was no cover whatsoever.
In part of my past wonderful career, I was head of Health&Safety for a major corporation, and conducted training on working in the heat and recognizing the symptoms of heat effects. But of course,
I never thought it would happen to me.
I now knew I was in big trouble. I was an hour by car from Las Vegas. I was the only person on this silly mountain. I was out of water, and my body was starting to shut down from both heat and dehydration.
I decided to call for help...911.
NO SIGNAL. the mountain blocked the signal to the towers. I was too low.
I had to abandon the bike and climb up the side of the mountain to get signal. Panic was setting in, as I began to realize how rapidly things had turned for the worse. At this point, without signal, and the lateness of the day, if I didn't reach someone I was doomed to be there til at least morning, if not longer, perhaps much longer. My wife would freak out first, but have no idea what to do as she only knew what region I went to...heck only about
400 square miles to search.
I started
losing track of time (bad), had extreme trouble climbing (I was having trouble walking, period). One. foot. at. a .time..my hands pushing on my knees to lift myself with each step.
I saw a rock outcropping about 400ft further up and figured that was it, I just have to make it there, that would be all I could do so that became my last goal. My last chance to reach a signal, otherwise, well...bad things, perhaps the worst.
Made it, finally.
My phone was at 18%. I learned later that a cellphone will draw a lot of battery life searching for a signal when it can't find one. One more nail....
But there it was...a single tiny bar, blinking in and out on the signal status. Shit. That's it. Its got to work.
Called 911 for emergency services. Got them. They asked my address. I said I'm on the side of a mountain at Bootleg Canyon. What?...yes the side of a mountain. I know the trail I'm on and that's it.
911 DID NOT KNOW WHAT TO DO. Without an address they can't dispatch help. Literally. They transferred me to another 911 center and they transferred me to another one. None of them knew what to do or even who had jurisdiction. I was transferred one more time to the Park Service, who said I have to call 911. Brilliant. I'll just die here while you guys figure it out.
I had to give up on 911. I still had a flickering one bar signal so decided to try calling the bike rental company. It took 15 calls (that kept dropping about 10 seconds in) to get my point across that I was in trouble and where I was. He said no more calls, only text (which I learned later that data was easier to transmit).
6% battery life. He texted me to open Google maps quickly, get centered, "drop a pin" for GPS position, send the pin by text back to him. I did. It worked.
He said he knew where I was (along with a WTF for good measure), but it would be an hour just to get to the mountain, let alone get to me.
I was able to text my wife and tell her I merely got lost and I would be late. So sorry. I didn't dare tell her the truth.
A few minutes later the
phone was dead.
It took 3 1/2 hours to reach me. Young twenty something fellow who hiked straight up the side of the mountain from fire roads, off of access roads, off of service roads, off the main road. He had already drank all of his own water, and brought two water bottles for me. He honestly looked as bad as I felt, and I am now sure he was in trouble as well.
He said he knew the way down, but though there was a faster way if we went parallel for a ways. We started back the way I already came...I said hey this is going further away...he said naw its a shortcut. Shit, I have no choice. I followed him for about half a mile, stumbling behind him. Then he stopped, looked around, and said
this doesn't look familiar.
Oh boy. We went the wrong way. We should have went the opposite direction. He checked his google map. His battery was almost dead too, from the same problem as mine. Shit. Now we have to walk the 1/2 mile back from where we started, and then start on the right path out. At that point I realized we may BOTH be in big trouble. He's not thinking straight either (but still better than me). I asked him who else was with him, anyone follow him up?...he said no he had a guy waiting at the van down at the truck stop on the main road (several miles away). Shit.
A few minutes later, his phone went dead.
As luck would have it, the guy in the van got a call from a friend of theirs who knew the mountain well...he heard the story and had grabbed his bike and set off on his own to get up there. He rode up the gully washes, straight up the mountain...absolutely incredible strength and endurance.
We were walking and saw this fellow in the distance...we started waving to get his attention. He saw us and rode over open ground to get to us. When he arrived he was in good spirits to find us, and we were able to discuss the best way out.
The plan was for me to make it over two more hills to where there was a very long gully that made its way all the way down the side of the mountain to a set of high tension lines that we would then have to follow to get to the access road back to the main road and truck stop.
Those two hills were almost impossible. The water I drank when the 1st fellow arrived was long gone (and wasn't close to enough for either of us) and I was back to severe dehydrationville. Its still well over 100 ground temp.
But once over the second hill(which took several attempts due to slipping on gravel), all I had to do was sit on my bike and coast behind the other rider, who would guide the way.
Except...the gully was filled with rubble and pebbles and sand all the way down. I forced my few remaining brain cells to solely focus on staying upright and right on his back wheel.
I now know what a migraine must feel like...my head was absolutely splitting with pain....now officially ticking off all the symptoms possible for heat stroke, except for one.....falling into coma.
It took a while, but I made it down, by sheer will more than anything...my vision narrowed to almost a point directly in front of me. If I fell down it would have been very bad as the whole way down was sharp boulders and rocks. I wondered if I could even get up after falling down at that speed. The odd thing was that having been exposed to such heat, the ability to coast on the bike actually woke me up a bit from the breeze, although my already dry eyes were drooling with tears.
But I made it. Thank God. All the way to the van. It took two hours to drink slowly and lie down til I felt better. The fellow who hiked up there to me arrived about an hour later. Thank god for that too.
And here lies the last huge mistake.
I let them convince me to go back to the hotel. Quite frankly I was ok with this. I felt horribly embarrassed.
It was now evening and I texted my wife that I was on my way and could she meet me at the door (I was pretty sure I wouldn't be able to walk in and get up to the room). She asked Why? I said don't worry just meet me. She then followed with "What happened!".....I couldn't reply. I simply said I'll let her know when we were close.
We got there. She was horrified. I'll never forget that look. It hit me like a brick wall. I instantly felt so horrible I had let her down, had let all these guys down by putting them at risk. My shorts were falling off, I was burned and thoroughly worn out. The other guests stared as I hobbled to the elevator. Please don't let the mgmt see me. I don't want any attention. I sat on the floor of the elevator, my wife's look of horror turning to anger, to pity, back to anger.....Oh Boy.
I sat in the shower for an hour til I climbed into bed and shivered all night.
The list of critical failures is quite long, and don't think I haven't thought about this over and over in my head. So many signs, so many warnings to not go forward.
By far the most critical error was my own ego. Pure and simple. A human failing that almost permanently failed me.
I don't want to leave this story without some positive, some lesson learned. 20yrs ago I might have made it out. 10yrs ago who knows, but time catches up with all of us. The ego thing was simple,
I wrote a check my body couldn't cash.
I mountain bike here in Florida about 40miles/week. My resting heart rate is 55. I was fit, I know heat, and I know how to read my body.
All of this failed me because of a different environment I couldn't handle, and unfortunately some aspects I couldn't plan for, such as the screwy map. It all added up, very quickly, to a life threatening emergency.
One last thing, a bit creepy, but nonetheless it had an equal effect.
While I was waiting those hours for rescue, suddenly and inexplicably a peaceful calm 'washed' over me. You know, I never really understood that expression until it happened. A literal cascade effect from the top of my head down to my toes. An incredible peace, a life altering peace. The pain went away. The panic went away. The fear went away. Total relaxation. I think it was an acceptance that whatever happens will happen. The landscape around me was so incredibly beautiful. I thought...you know, if this is it, its not a bad way to go. Alone in nature's wonder. Dust to dust, ashes to ashes. It was a fundamental and profound experience. I heard voices, saw visions. The whole deal. It was amazing, actually. I was very calm when the 1st fellow finally reached me.
Lastly, for a bit of humor, when they dropped me off at the hotel, the fellow said to me "Don't forget to put a good review on Yelp". I asked are you serious? I have to be literally the worst customer you've ever had. He said no not the worst, you're still alive. I think that was a joke..........
Postscript: between the van and the hotel I drank 10 more bottles of water(16.9oz ea) and 2 liters of gatorade. My shorts were falling off. My body and clothing were white with salt. My phone was crusted with salt. They say losing 15% of your body water will incapacitate you, 20+% will kill you. I figure I lost 14%. Too damn close, too damn fast. Later I checked the humidity for that day...8%. About as dry as a desert can get.
The biggest danger was I never felt like I was sweating....but in Florida you know.....you sweat your ass off and you get soaked as the humidity is 90% and you can't dry off. The heat effects are OBVIOUS.
Here I never noticed how much water I was losing.
Postscript 2: I was very ill for several days but troopered through the rest of the trip for my wife's sake. Took about three weeks to feel normal again. I drink so much water now before I ride I usually have to stop and piss during the ride. I'm fine with that. You bet.
Pic 1: Magnificent desolation. Well over 100 on the ground.
Pic2: The rock outcropping 400 ft up from trail that provided not only a slice of cell signal, but this sliver of shade in which to await rescue. A miracle as there were no other rock outcroppings anywhere in view.
Pic 3: The nightscape of Vegas from the hotel room, 56th floor.