Seeking Advice on Seamaster 166.010

Manlodan · Oct 30, 2023

Hello! I have been collecting watches for about a year and a half, and I have found that my tastes are pretty well dialed in to early/mid 1960s dress and sports/dress watches. I have held off on buying an Omega for a while, as I wanted to get a sense for what watches I’m really likely to keep and love for the long term. Now that I know what I like, I’m doing heavy research into an Omega Seamaster as a Christmas present to myself. My budget is within $700, and I’m mostly looking at the Seamaster 166.010 Chronometer on bracelet. I handled one in person and I love the case size, robust, yet elegant lug shape, and movement spec. The only thing that might make me like it more is a day window, but for this watch I think it’s better without.

In Japan where I live, the selling price for above average condition watches without paperwork tends to be around $680US, so I’m giving myself some wiggle room. There are certainly more and less expensive watches out there, but this seems to be the price that I should comfortably pay for a running, unpolished example with little minimal dal patina.

With these things in mind, is there anything specific I should look out for it this reference? Common problems, defects, or pitfalls to ask about before buying? Also, Are there other similar Omegas in the same price range that you might suggest I take a look at? I’m looking at SS because of budget, but I’m interested in gold-capped with bracelet also.

If there are any important reference materials that I should look at before buying this reference, please let me know about them! Thanks in advance 😀

SOG53 · Oct 30, 2023

Hello Mandolan welcome to OF. It sounds like you’ve found your reference and know what you’re interested in. An important first step! SS is generally preferred by most collectors over gold cap. I think recognizing what this watch looks like in really good condition is your next task- search this reference on OF and look at a lot of them so you feel comfortable assessing the case condition. Follow the Private Sales thread you can find good watches from members who are collectors. Search Private Sales for the reference. Hope you stick around and feel free to share any potential purchase before you buy many knowledgeable members available to help you.
And please post the watch you end up buying!

hoipolloi · Oct 30, 2023

If you are looking for a chronometer 166.010, you are talking about 168.024 powered by a 564.
Your $700 budget may not be enough, $900 may work.

Manlodan · Oct 31, 2023

hoipolloi
If you are looking for a chronometer 166.010, you are talking about 168.024 powered by a 564.
Your $700 budget may not be enough, $900 may work.

I see.. i am referring to the 564 movement powered watch, thanks for the info. But the chronometer versions I see usually show the serial number 166010 inside the case back.. Is that a different movement? I thought it was the same movement adjusted for chronometer rating.

As for the price, I have noticed a range of $900-1400 on the international market, but Japan’s watch market is quite insular and rarely seems to match overseas prices. That’s true of most everything really, but especially so with watches in the domestic market, though I couldn’t tell you why. Here are some current and recently sold listings:

https://jp.mercari.com/shops/product/9zo2GHDfZK8XXcRm8WNNE4

https://jp.mercari.com/shops/product/A5farr3kPHAbLdLdcmwRtB

https://jp.mercari.com/shops/product/roMtQV2B99jQbkWNcm8o49

https://jp.mercari.com/shops/product/sjAhuwBdV8Wupft5joaEyR

These are just some examples I quickly pulled up, but over several Japanese websites (and some local pawn shops) the ceiling seems to be $850 for very nice examples with overhauls fresh and sometimes boxes and papers, and most sell closer to $700. That said, I’m not afraid to stretch a bit for the right watch. I plan to have about $840 saved by December to just in case. If there are any red flags in the photos here though, please let me know! I don’t have much chance to put hands on Omegas in my small town.

Davidt · Oct 31, 2023

With watches from the bulk sellers in Japan, pay close attention to;
Dial condition. Most are photographed under strong artificial light which can hide blemishes and damage.
Movement condition. Many have very ‘dry’ looking movements with wear and/or mis matched colours indicating replaced bridges.
Crown. Many have replaced crowns.
Crystal. Check the crystal has only shallow scratches. Deep scratches and cracks require a replacement.
Service. Watches are almost always unserviced so ensure you account for this in your budget.

In summary there are some great watches from the large Japanese sellers but only say 1 in 5 falls into that category. The majority have issues listed above meaning it can cost the same again in a full service and new crystal if you don’t buy well. Even then, if you don’t start with a nice dial, you won’t end up with a good watch. Be patient and buy well, not quick and cheap.

Spruce · Oct 31, 2023

The non-chronometer 166.010 with the calibre 565 movement is more affordable and the 565 movement is extremely accurate, robust and reliable.

I appreciate the kudos in wearing a chronometer but, in a digital age, an accurate watch is just as good.

Manlodan · Oct 31, 2023

Spruce
The non-chronometer 166.010 with the calibre 565 movement is more affordable and the 565 movement is extremely accurate, robust and reliable.

I appreciate the kudos in wearing a chronometer but, in a digital age, an accurate watch is just as good.

Thanks, but I'm more interested in the chronometer for the idea of it. I also quite like the lettering on the dial, as controversial a statement as that might be 😉 I think it's nice for a simpler dial like these have. That said, if I happen upon a really great deal on a non chronometer 565 in really stellar condition, I could be swayed..

MtV · Oct 31, 2023

Great reference, and for the Japanese market your budget should be ok-ish indeed. Do note that we’re speaking of a watch that was produced in vast numbers, good examples come online on the Japanese auction sites multiple times a week. So there is absolutely no reason to not wait for an example that is in great shape and ticks all the boxes.

hoipolloi · Oct 31, 2023

Pay special attention to --- SWISS MADE ---
And SWISS MADE.

The ones with dash Swiss Made dash have black painted hour markers. Not onyx inserts and less desirable.

SOG53 · Oct 31, 2023

You were asking about the Caseback numbers they can have both the 166.010 and 168.024 same Caseback see example for eBay listing. The chronometer Caseback should have both numbers I think.

Manlodan · Oct 31, 2023

hoipolloi
Pay special attention to --- SWISS MADE ---
And SWISS MADE.

The ones with dash Swiss Made dash have black painted hour markers. Not onyx inserts and less desirable.

I had no idea onyx inserts were a thing, that’s very cool! Thanks for the tip.

Dan S · Oct 31, 2023

Manlodan
I’m mostly looking at the Seamaster 166.010 Chronometer on bracelet.

That's not a chronometer reference. The chronometer version is 168.024 IIRC. You want to check that the vertical brushing is still present on the side of the case and that the back hasn't been over polished. Most of the examples I see have been poorly polished and refinished.

Going by YJ prices, I would budget about $700 for a good one without bracelet, and closer to $900 with a good BoR bracelet. With luck and patience maybe it will be a little less. I understand that locals in Japan have access to cheaper markets than YJ, so maybe you can do it for $700.

Manlodan · Oct 31, 2023

Thank you for your replies! I’ve been continuing to research and look at various examples, and I’m trying to find something I can use as a good solid reference to compare to potential listings. What about this watch as a reference? I would think that if I bought this watch for around $750, I’d be quite satisfied with it.

https://timeanagram.com/en/products/42700

Dan S · Oct 31, 2023

From what I can see, it would be a good buy at $750. However, they are asking $1,250. And keep in mind that it will eventually need a service if you're going to wear it regularly.

Dan S · Oct 31, 2023

No-date non-chronometer 165.010 is more appealing IMO. And the 165/166.009 case is even nicer. You don't have to buy what everyone else buys. 😀

tamura · Nov 1, 2023

[/QUOTE]

Dan S
No-date non-chronometer 165.010 is more appealing IMO. And the 165/166.009 case is even nicer. You don't have to buy what everyone else buys. 😀

Yes!!!!

krogerfoot · Nov 2, 2023

Manlodan
Thank you for your replies! I’ve been continuing to research and look at various examples, and I’m trying to find something I can use as a good solid reference to compare to potential listings. What about this watch as a reference? I would think that if I bought this watch for around $750, I’d be quite satisfied with it.

https://timeanagram.com/en/products/42700

I’m in Japan as well and second all of the advice you’ve gotten here. I’ve bought a number of 166.010 and 168.024 models and agree that they look like a million bucks on a BoR bracelet. They are plentiful here, with varying conditions and prices. If you’re patient, you can definitely land a nice one on Japanese sites.

In addition to @hoipolloi’s point about onyx markers, another factor to keep in mind is the crown. The original thin scalloped crown on the 166.010/165.010 is hard to find because almost every serviced example had it replaced. The original crowns tend to be shot, water-resistancewise, so you should take care not to get caught in the rain with it. 166.024s always seem to have the thicker crown; I’ve never seen one with the thin crown, though I haven’t made any exhaustive search for one.

Also, the cyclops replacement crystal is so common that a lot of Japanese owners must have specifically requested it, maybe for the Rolex look. I think it looks fine on the watch, as does the thicker crown. Original examples tend to go for higher prices. Definitely don’t buy one from a dealer unless it’s original. No point in paying a premium for a piece you could find on Yahoo! Auctions for half the price and a little patience.

Lastly, the champagne dial on this model is prone to bubbling, giving it a pebbly or spotty look. The ones that are bubbled but not discolored look fine on the wrist and can be a good buy. There are also black-dialed versions out there that look spiffy as hell.

DIV · Nov 2, 2023

This video I posted about the 166.010 might be interesting for the OP:

tamura · Nov 3, 2023

Seamaster 14779 - 61 or 165010-63, more or less onyx.

nanjingcigaretes · Nov 3, 2023

tamura
Seamaster 14779 - 61 or 165010-63, more or less onyx.

same combo but yours are so much sexier

Seeking Advice on Seamaster 166.010

Manlodan

SOG53

hoipolloi

Manlodan

Davidt

Spruce

Manlodan

MtV

hoipolloi

SOG53

Manlodan

Dan S

Manlodan

Dan S

Dan S

tamura

krogerfoot

DIV

tamura

nanjingcigaretes

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