Railmaster Goodwill find

Posts
4,340
Likes
10,291
Using newer 283 parts is normal? I feel like that destroys the integrity of the watch. I'm fine with a new stem, gasket and so on. But my concern is with the movement. Where do you suggest I draw the line?
Just parts from the movement. Not a movement swap.
Best thing to do is to get a recommendation of a watchmaker from someone here and get an estimate.
 
Posts
24,264
Likes
54,034
Using newer 283 parts is normal? I feel like that destroys the integrity of the watch. I'm fine with a new stem, gasket and so on. But my concern is with the movement. Where do you suggest I draw the line?

It's not a matter of a "newer" cal 283, just another movement that may have usable parts. It's normal to scavenge parts from one movement to make another one complete.
 
Posts
5,598
Likes
9,424
You might not need any replacement parts. Just have it serviced. Every decent watchmaker should be able to do that for $300 wothout parts. And that's it. Use an omega glass with the wide silver inner pressure ring. Not expensive either. Keep the crown. Have the service person clean the inner anti-magnetic movement holder from surface rust. Costs maybe $ 80. No need to polish the case at all. Or the back. Keep that as is in the moment. Source some omega military 1953 hands from ex Watchco in New Zealand. Ask Marcus there. A few hundred bucks. Then wear and enjoy. Kind regards. Achim
 
Posts
11
Likes
6
You have all been extremely insightful! I think this makes sense and will probably pursue something along this route.

I've put out some feelers to contacts that have experience in vintage timepieces. Hopefully I will get a few recommendations for a reliable WM. I will keep you all posted on next steps.
 
Posts
4,817
Likes
12,200
You have all been extremely insightful! I think this makes sense and will probably pursue something along this route.

I've put out some feelers to contacts that have experience in vintage timepieces. Hopefully I will get a few recommendations for a reliable WM. I will keep you all posted on next steps.

You can also post a new thread here asking for WM recommendations in NY, but first use the forum search to if that question has been asked.
 
Posts
1,061
Likes
1,940
You might not need any replacement parts. Just have it serviced. Every decent watchmaker should be able to do that for $300 wothout parts. And that's it. Use an omega glass with the wide silver inner pressure ring. Not expensive either. Keep the crown. Have the service person clean the inner anti-magnetic movement holder from surface rust. Costs maybe $ 80. No need to polish the case at all. Or the back. Keep that as is in the moment. Source some omega military 1953 hands from ex Watchco in New Zealand. Ask Marcus there. A few hundred bucks. Then wear and enjoy. Kind regards. Achim

We'd all like to see it restored to it's former glory but that is a big investment in time and money even if you do find the parts. If you're not into vintage watch "perfection" as many here, then get it serviced and wear it with pride. You might find that it looks too small on your wrist and that would be a pile of money spent for a watch you don't wear much. Just initially get it serviced and running again and see if you like it. At the end of the day, even a redialled Railmaster in working condition will represent a several 100% profit on what you paid for it at the Goodwill shop. You might then decide to flip it and put the cash towards something that might wear bigger and be more appealing to you (Like say a nice vintage Speedmaster).
 
Posts
768
Likes
1,328
Or forgot the guys name in Belgium he did have sets on NOS hands
Perhaps you mean Latriaz, eBay name, in Belgium. He brilliantly has obsolete parts made. I don't think he has '53 hands, he has mvt ring and dust cover spring I think though.
 
Posts
3,957
Likes
11,041
Great find, that's got to be one of the more exciting Goodwill finds anyone has come up with in a day or two.
 
Posts
11
Likes
6
Hi everyone,

Have an update for you all. I emailed that director of the horological society in NYC for WM recommendations. He put me in contact with the AWCI. From there I was able to find a reputable WM with extensive knowledge in vintage Omega watches. I'm planning on going tomorrow to discuss next steps.
Keep you posted.

Best ,
OP
 
Posts
160
Likes
616
Cool thread! As an owner of a 53 fat arrow I’m interested to see where this goes
 
Posts
5,598
Likes
9,424
good luck with that. there is not much to discuss with the watchmaker. simple omega movement service. remove rust from inside Amagnetic movement holder. do NOT touch anything else. Simple. source your hands later and have them replaced then. that is all you need to do, to wear it as an everyday watch. kind regards. achim
 
Posts
16,307
Likes
44,994
good luck with that. there is not much to discuss with the watchmaker. simple omega movement service. remove rust from inside Amagnetic movement holder. do NOT touch anything else. Simple. source your hands later and have them replaced then. that is all you need to do, to wear it as an everyday watch. kind regards. achim
Agreed, unless this Omega specialist has access to the correct hands and possibly a correct donor dial for this watch...then that's a more involved conversation.
 
Posts
317
Likes
251
Found this yesterday at Goodwill while visiting my dad over the weekend. Reference number is 277-2sc with a Calabar 283 movement. I can't find anything online that looks similar to the face. Looking to see if I found the real McCoy or if it's a dud.

Let me know your thoughts

Oooh me God!!!!! pun intended
 
Posts
7,651
Likes
21,952
Congrats OP on the find!
A 2777-1 is the best place to find a workable antimagnetic dial to refinish, hands and movement parts.

1953 2777-1 “Fat Arrow” RAF

Just curious, why would you take a dial from an RAF fat arrow instead of the dial that’s on the watch? Would you try to just have the RAF dial “touched up”, paint over the broadarrow and just have “Railmaster” printed on it without anything else?
 
Posts
5,861
Likes
16,791
Congrats OP on the find!


Just curious, why would you take a dial from an RAF fat arrow instead of the dial that’s on the watch? Would you try to just have the RAF dial “touched up”, paint over the broadarrow and just have “Railmaster” printed on it without anything else?

Well, a big determinant would be the OP dial. Is it a thick anti-mag dial at all? If it is an original dial plate, I can’t think of any reason why it was altered in the first place. Using a 53 2777-1 as donor for dial, hands, movement parts, case perhaps, offers a few options. Leave it alone, add the Railmaster script or leave it sterile, as a few other 2777-2 were produced.

Comparing the 2777-2 Railmaster and 2777-1 RAF, they are quite similar in layout.


Here is a 2777-2 “sterile” version.
 
Posts
7,651
Likes
21,952
@gemini4 thanks for the explanation.
I'm a bit confused about the reasoning,
When you say "If it is an original dial plate, I can’t think of any reason why it was altered in the first place."
I thought many dials got refinished because of condition issues, or because at one point that was just a common practice during service?

If you're implying the refinishing process means the dial plate has been compromised and is no longer original -- then it's also true on the Fat Arrow - which is also a refinished dial.

But I must admit I'm a bit challenged technically... so maybe there's something I'm missing completely.
Edited:
 
Posts
5,861
Likes
16,791
Touching up, refinishing the dial was common but the OP Railmaster dial is like nothing (luckily) every produced by Omega for an early Railmaster. Normally, the touching up is to restore the original dial look.

That’s why I’m curious if it’s even the original thick (1mm) RM dial as it’s appearance is so difference from any 2777-2 produced. If the OP dial turns out to be a thin, 0.4mm “regular” caliber 283, 284, 285, 286 dial plate then the watch has lost the antimag qualities it was designed to have. A donor 2777-1 RAF dial would restore antimagnetic characteristics of the watch.