Opening caseback on a Speedmaster

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I just got my first Speedmaster and I want to get a look at the movement just to verify that everything is genuine with the watch while it is still in return period. Does anyone know of a guide of how to remove the caseback, and what tool(s) I would need to do this? This is something that I would like to learn to do so I appreciate any help that you can offer. It is a slotted Hippocampus back if that makes a difference. Thanks all!
 
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You usually don't need to take the caseback off just to verify, post some quality pics of the dial, sides and back and people will be able to tell.
 
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I will work on getting some of those, I just also want to have a look at the movement also to get the serial number too.
 
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I just got my first Speedmaster and I want to get a look at the movement just to verify that everything is genuine with the watch while it is still in return period. Does anyone know of a guide of how to remove the caseback, and what tool(s) I would need to do this? This is something that I would like to learn to do so I appreciate any help that you can offer. It is a slotted Hippocampus back if that makes a difference. Thanks all!

Without knowing your level of technical ability I'd be reluctant to advise you. There's a risk of damaging your watch which would render void the return to the seller.

Post some good quality pics and the experts here will judge 👍

I know we all started somewhere but..........

View attachment 22767
 
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It is a simple procedure, which like many simple procedures has huge potential to cause a lot of $amage with a single slip. A gouge on the case back from a failed opening will ruin your watch experience.

Use a three pronged opener,



assuming you are not going medieval and buying a full bergeon steering wheel setup.




Do not use a two pronged tool. This is only useful if the back is already loosened. And you know what you are doing, and possibly have more enthusiasm than patience.


My method is to hold the watch head in my left hand (remove straps spring bars).

I hold the tool in my right, handle away from me to give a more secure grip. Line up the three prongs in the slots, press together and gently try to loosen the case. Sometimes on a freshly acquired watch I do this three or four times, increasing pressure each time until it moves. The key is patience, and the right tool.

The dust cap over the movement sometimes needs a firm knife, sometimes it falls out.


Good luck.

phots nicked from web. Sue me.
 
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I would first post some photos for the forum to look at. The only time I open the back of one of my watches is just before I take it in for service. If it is an older watch, the last time the gasket on the case back may still work is just before you take off the back.
 
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Richard is right.

But if you are absolutely determined to remove the case back, I'd suggest using one of the sticky balls & not a metal jaxa tool. That way you don't stand to gouge the case back if you don't get it right first time.
 
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I was just about to say, "what about those balls I see on YouTube."
 
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alternatively, take it to a watch shop( where they change batteries and straps in minutes), offer them £5, and take your. camera along. they may do it for free anyway
 
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Even with correct tool, there are two good reasons for being extremely cautious -

* The rubber o-ring seal may have perished to a sticky gloop which is now welding the back to the case.

* Some watchmakers are gorillas, and way over-tighten the cover. If the seals are in good condition, a gentle tightening is all that is required.

I have spent my adult life dismantling and repairing cars, motorcycles, cameras and lenses, and I still found it tricky the first few times.
 
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assuming you are not going medieval and buying a full bergeon steering wheel setup.

22840


The Horotec Mini Press 3 shown here is an extremely good tool, but as with any metal to metal contact, there is always the risk of damage if you are not careful. I have just bought the set of 7 different sized suction dies for mine - think rubber ball on steroids. £130 well spent.
 
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The Horotec Mini Press 3 shown here is an extremely good tool, but as with any metal to metal contact, there is always the risk of damage if you are not careful. I have just bought the set of 7 different sized suction dies for mine - think rubber ball on steroids. £130 well spent.

Indeed that's the Horotec version, not the Bergeon version. And yes most of the time I use the urethane friction dies, as shown here on my Bergeon 5700:



When using these, I find putting pressure downward, and then turning in short and sharp bursts is much more effective than trying to just press and turn on it.

There are times when these won't work, and for those occasions I use either the correct key for that model from Omega, or a generic key that is adjustable and came with the 5700 opener. IMO metal hand held openers are a recipe for scratches, because even if you are very careful, it will eventually slip. I will say that the rubber balls, if inflated enough and the surfaces are clean, can do a really good job in many cases. If you are going to use a metal hand held opener, get a proper case vise and clamp that in a bench vise, so you can have the case held stationary for you, and you can control the opener with both hands.

For the OP, you are better off taking it to a watchmaker, and I would not advise using the pimply faced kid at the mall in the battery change kiosk. Keep in mind that you need to make sure the joint between the case and case back is cleaned off all dirt/debris before opening the case, to prevent that dirt from falling into the watch - many people forget this, and it leads to dirt in the movement. Then you will have to remove the inner anti-magnetic cover, and sometimes these can be on the enlargement ring (movement spacer) very tightly, so care must be used in getting that off.

Speaking of Omega tools - this Aqua Terra came in and no amount of torque on the 5700 with the friction dies was going to open it. I put my most of my body weight on the wheel when turning, and still it would not budge, so had to break down and order all the parts from Omega (which was a bit of an ordeal in itself identifying the correct tools for the larger cased version):



Nearly $400 later, the case opened easily:





Cheers, Al
 
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Ok you've all sufficiently convinced me not to try opening a watch back for the very first time on this watch. It's still something I want to learn but that will have to wait for another day. I took a few pictures so I'll drop them in a new thread. Thanks all.
 
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I will work on getting some of those, I just also want to have a look at the movement also to get the serial number too.
This is the best way to get a quick answer (almost immediately), and well within the return period of your watch.

With respect to opening the caseback, something that hasn't been mentioned here is that if you choose to open it, the seller is within his rights to decline the return. For many of the reasons Archer articulated above, opening a watch is an invasive operation which is done improperly, can subject both the case exterior, and movement internals, to damage. If you have a newer Speedy, you'll find either a small red dot, or small blue dot on the caseback indicating its original factory or service center seal. While these wear away over time, if yours is presently intact, it won't be after you open it which also would also be an indication to the seller that the caseback was opened. Finally, a critical check to make after reclosing the caseback is the water resistance of the watch: a simple speck of dust, or o-ring not seating properly during sealing can result in your watch not sealing, meaning that if you expose it to water, you will damage the movement, quickly and irreversibly. Checking the water resistance safely and effectively requires a dry (pressure) tester, and prices for those cost more than a Speedmaster does.

All this said, it's certainly not impossible to open your watch caseback, and many enthusiasts start out by purchasing a watch, and then over time learning about it, then doing small things such as changing straps and resizing bracelets, before progressing on to opening and even in some instances, adjusting or even servicing their own watches. You'll also find lots of helpful advice on this and other forums along the way from members.

For today, my thoughts for you are that if your objective is making sure you've bought a genuine article, a few pictures posted to here should get you some quick answers. If you are interested in seeing the internals, one thing that is a very sound practice to do when making a purchase is to have your watch serviced. This involves a complete disassembly, ultrasonic parts cleaning, thorough inspection and repair/replacement of any worn or damaged parts, reassembly, and checkout of the watch. Along the way, your watchmaker can take many photos for you if you ask, so you'll be able to get the internals of your watch (including serial number) thoroughly documented. A service is very important because in every case of mine where I purchased a used watch, my watchmaker identified worn parts and old, gummed up lubricant. Had I continued wearing my watch as-is, over time, the remaining parts would have worn a lot quicker and resulted in a much more costly repair down the line.

best regards,
Mark
 
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Without knowing your level of technical ability I'd be reluctant to advise you. There's a risk of damaging your watch which would render void the return to the seller.

Post some good quality pics and the experts here will judge 👍

I know we all started somewhere but..........

View attachment 22767
This is the best way to get a quick answer (almost immediately), and well within the return period of your watch.

With respect to opening the caseback, something that hasn't been mentioned here is that if you choose to open it, the seller is within his rights to decline the return. For many of the reasons Archer articulated above, opening a watch is an invasive operation which is done improperly, can subject both the case exterior, and movement internals, to damage. If you have a newer Speedy, you'll find either a small red dot, or small blue dot on the caseback indicating its original factory or service center seal. While these wear away over time, if yours is presently intact, it won't be after you open it which also would also be an indication to the seller that the caseback was opened. Finally, a critical check to make after reclosing the caseback is the water resistance of the watch: a simple speck of dust, or o-ring not seating properly during sealing can result in your watch not sealing, meaning that if you expose it to water, you will damage the movement, quickly and irreversibly. Checking the water resistance safely and effectively requires a dry (pressure) tester, and prices for those cost more than a Speedmaster does.

All this said, it's certainly not impossible to open your watch caseback, and many enthusiasts start out by purchasing a watch, and then over time learning about it, then doing small things such as changing straps and resizing bracelets, before progressing on to opening and even in some instances, adjusting or even servicing their own watches. You'll also find lots of helpful advice on this and other forums along the way from members.

For today, my thoughts for you are that if your objective is making sure you've bought a genuine article, a few pictures posted to here should get you some quick answers. If you are interested in seeing the internals, one thing that is a very sound practice to do when making a purchase is to have your watch serviced. This involves a complete disassembly, ultrasonic parts cleaning, thorough inspection and repair/replacement of any worn or damaged parts, reassembly, and checkout of the watch. Along the way, your watchmaker can take many photos for you if you ask, so you'll be able to get the internals of your watch (including serial number) thoroughly documented. A service is very important because in every case of mine where I purchased a used watch, my watchmaker identified worn parts and old, gummed up lubricant. Had I continued wearing my watch as-is, over time, the remaining parts would have worn a lot quicker and resulted in a much more costly repair down the line.

best regards,
Mark


Hi!

I recently bought an Omega Seamaster (supposed to be 501 caliber) and I will receive it next week, but I bought it without looking inside, so I´m afraid that the caliber is not the correct one (maybe a bumper one).

Can you tell if it is a 300`s or 500' caliber just by a specific sound (considering that the first one is half rotor and the second one is full rotation). In that way, I make sure about the caliber without trying to open it by my self and don´t lose the warranty. (OBviously I´ll take to the watchmaker after)

Cheers, thank you
 
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Hi!

I recently bought an Omega Seamaster (supposed to be 501 caliber) and I will receive it next week, but I bought it without looking inside, so I´m afraid that the caliber is not the correct one (maybe a bumper one).

Can you tell if it is a 300`s or 500' caliber just by a specific sound (considering that the first one is half rotor and the second one is full rotation). In that way, I make sure about the caliber without trying to open it by my self and don´t lose the warranty. (OBviously I´ll take to the watchmaker after)

Cheers, thank you

The 501 has a rotor that rotates all the way around 360 degrees. The bumper calibers don't - the oscillating weight hits springs typically, so you will fee a very distinct bump feeling on those.
 
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OP

Wrt opening a case back when the seal is perished - this is a good example of the mess it can cause

I picked this 168.004 Dome dial connie up at a flea market in NY a few years ago, with inlaid onyx inserts in the hr markers, but was impatient, as wanted to inspect the movement, get the cal and serial number to date it

However, its now a real mess, and I have had to put this one away, as i really need to get this serviced asap