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Omega seamaster ref?????

L
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Bit of a long post sorry just joined the group. So this omega sea master (don’t know the reference) was left to me by a close friend a few years ago with original bracelet, no boxes or papers though. As he had said to me before passing he had worn it daily and bashed it about but had never got it serviced etc.
it still works fine and I have changed the straps occasionally but my question is I would like thoughts on whether I should try to restore it and what estimate costs to this would be? I have a quartz 2221.80 seamaster my wife got me for our wedding which is in very good condition but when I put new straps on this one it only highlights the poor condition of it. Sentimental wise I know my friend wouldn’t care but just wondered how hard it would be and if others have done the same.
Many thanks Lee

IMG_0785.webp IMG_0787.webp IMG_0786.webp
 
padders
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2531.80 The Automatic Bond Seamaster 300m.

As for restoring it, a full service at Omega will put it back to like new but the condition of the dial and bracelet may decide if there are additional charges. The corrosion on the hands wont be an issue as those are routinely changed but if as it looks the dial is marked then that would be an additional charge to swap that for a new one. As a watch it is worth saving certainly since it has a two grand plus value when healthy, but it may cost the thick end of a grand to do so. You bezel is quite beaten up too. Some like the faded look but if you don't, Omega have been known recently to offer to change these for a new one for free during an official service.
Edited:
 
bgrisso
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Sorry as I’m not familiar with this ref at all, but is this tritium or SL? Just wondering if that’s a potential factor in deciding where/how to service?
 
padders
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You find these with both kinds of lume depending on age. That one is the later Superluminova kind so there is no problem in changing hands or the dial, there wont be a mismatch.
 
L
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Thanks for the info, the bracelet is scuffed as you would expect for the age but is otherwise in good condition. The marks in the photo are on the glass on the inside so don’t know if I would have to get a new Chrystal or if they can be polished out. Having never seen inside it I don’t know how bad the inside is. Maybe if I take it to my local authorised dealer they might be able to give me a quote
 
ErichPryde
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padders padders
You find these with both kinds of lume depending on age. That one is the later Superluminova kind so there is no problem in changing hands or the dial, there wont be a mismatch.

Are you certain it's super luminova? The plots look slightly yellow and could go either way, but the SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL CHRONOMETER text definitely appears to be the earlier style. Was that font style actually present on non tritium dials?

@lee11710 when you expose it to direct light and then take it into a dark room, is the glow almost non-existent or sort of "grayed" out or does it die quickly?
 
Mute
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L lee11710
Thanks for the info, the bracelet is scuffed as you would expect for the age but is otherwise in good condition. The marks in the photo are on the glass on the inside so don’t know if I would have to get a new Chrystal or if they can be polished out. Having never seen inside it I don’t know how bad the inside is. Maybe if I take it to my local authorised dealer they might be able to give me a quote
How did you get marks on the inside of the crystal? Regardless, that's not something you can just polish out. If you want to refurb this watch, it will have some expensive work required.
 
ErichPryde
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Mute Mute
How did you get marks on the inside of the crystal? Regardless, that's not something you can just polish out. If you want to refurb this watch, it will have some expensive work required.

The hands are pretty corroded. Could be markings from whatever caused that. It looks junk left behind by vapor/evaporation
Edited:
 
padders
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ErichPryde ErichPryde
Are you certain it's super luminova? The plots look slightly yellow and could go either way, but the SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL CHRONOMETER text definitely appears to be the earlier style. Was that font style actually present on non tritium dials?

@lee11710 when you expose it to direct light and then take it into a dark room, is the glow almost non-existent or sort of "grayed" out or does it die quickly?

I’m pretty certain, yes. I take your point about fonts and there were differences but the dial plots usually go beige to pumpkin colour (while the hands stay quite green) if tritium like was used. The other tell will be the serial number. The cut off date was late 1997 so if the serial is after ~60.25m it should be SL. Of course an earlier serial watch could have had a dial swap, but pretty much never vice versa. @lee, What’s the watch serial here?
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502 to right
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As noted above, your watch can definitely by restored. Given that this watch was left to you by a friend who has passed away, the question I have for you is how much do you want changed on the watch?

On the extreme side of restoration you could have the bracelet, crystal, dial, hands, crowns, and bezel/insert replaced. This cost estimates below are in U.S. dollars (I don’t know where you live but I’m in the U.S. so this is what I’m familiar with):

Omega Service Center
Service - $700 (this includes new crowns and hands). This is a full service on the movement: clean, lubricate, and regulate. A service also includes refinishing the case and caseback and the bracelet.
Crystal - $180
Bezel/insert - $300
Bracelet - $800
Dial - $460

The cost for the crystal, bezel/insert, bracelet, and dial is addition to the $700 service fee.

On the opposite side of the spectrum would be having an independent Omega certified watchmaker service the movement and replace the gaskets (this would include replacing the crowns as Omega does not sell crown gaskets separately). I think this would run around $600 to $900. An independent Omega certified watchmaker could also replace any parts noted above in the Omega Service Center section for the same price.

The downside to using an Omega Service Center is that they will insist on replacing the crowns, hands, and possibly the dial if it’s damaged at all. They also may insist on refurbishing the case. If your goal is to keep the watch as original as possible, this may not be the choice you want. That’s where using an independent Omega certified watchmaker is helpful because they are a lot more accommodating in keeping things original, but still servicing the movement so things run well. They tend to be a little expensive for what you get, however. But if you want things looking new, an Omega Service Center is the way to go.
 
bulldog77
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ErichPryde ErichPryde
Are you certain it's super luminova? The plots look slightly yellow and could go either way, but the SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL CHRONOMETER text definitely appears to be the earlier style. Was that font style actually present on non tritium dials?
I've been through a few of these in various iterations over the years and I had a 2551.80 which was an 80x serial and papers dated sale to 2001, which had a luminova dial with the serif text like the OPs. It seems for some reason they brought that style back again in the early 2000s for a while but then reverted again. It did have some yellowing/creaming of the plots, though not quite as much as OPs.
 
L
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ErichPryde ErichPryde
Are you certain it's super luminova? The plots look slightly yellow and could go either way, but the SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL CHRONOMETER text definitely appears to be the earlier style. Was that font style actually present on non tritium dials?

@lee11710 when you expose it to direct light and then take it into a dark room, is the glow almost non-existent or sort of "grayed" out or does it die quickly?
It doesn’t last too long really but the watch isn’t in great shape and not sure how old it is
 
L
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Mute Mute
How did you get marks on the inside of the crystal? Regardless, that's not something you can just polish out. If you want to refurb this watch, it will have some expensive work required.
The marks were on it when I got it. They aren’t scratches or anything just look like dirty glass I think
 
L
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padders padders
I’m pretty certain, yes. I take your point about fonts and there were differences but the dial plots usually go beige to pumpkin colour (while the hands stay quite green) if tritium like was used. The other tell will be the serial number. The cut off date was late 1997 so if the serial is after ~60.25m it should be SL. Of course an earlier serial watch could have had a dial swap, but pretty much never vice versa. @lee, What’s the watch serial here?

IMG_0808.webp
 
ErichPryde
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L lee11710
IMG_0808.webp

Thanks for sharing the additional info. Based on the SN data I have seen, there is an incredibly high probability this is a 2001 built watch. This lines up with what @bulldog77 shared as well. I learned something new about the dial font that I didn't know. Pretty cool.

Also, @padders I'm just now looking at this thread on my actual computer (as opposed to my phone) and it definitely looks like somewhat dirty luminova on this monitor.


@lee11710 if you intend to keep this watch, I'd have it serviced. As @502 to right said, these are very attractive tool watches with new dials, hands, and bezels. If you don't intend to wear it much or at all, that's another thing- but... I genuinely think it's easily worth the money to clean it up.

Here's my concern- it looks as if some moisture got into the case at some point in the past. It's a 24 year old watch, and if it has never been serviced the seals are failing. At bare minimum have it pressure tested if you're not going to have it serviced and keep water and humidity exposure as low as possible until you can do that.
 
padders
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I agree it shows many of the signs of water ingress. The inside might be a mess. Not a problem necessarily if you go for a factory service where most main movement parts are included, but it may be if you try to go the independent route where you are charged for pretty much all movement parts. If it is full of rust inside, and looking at the hand it may be, you may have a problem whoever you use.
 
DenisChalandier
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L lee11710
Thanks for the info, the bracelet is scuffed as you would expect for the age but is otherwise in good condition. The marks in the photo are on the glass on the inside so don’t know if I would have to get a new Chrystal or if they can be polished out. Having never seen inside it I don’t know how bad the inside is. Maybe if I take it to my local authorised dealer they might be able to give me a quote
Firts open it. Yourself if you'r up to it or any horologist nearby. The watch got some massive water damage at one point. You need to see how the inside is. Maybe lucky, maybe not. Then Omega. If it's a memory, just change the hands and whatever is rusty or not inside. Leave the rest untouched. My point of view anyway.

For the rest obvious early 00's 2531.80. Asymmetric 3 and SL.
 
L
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DenisChalandier DenisChalandier
Firts open it. Yourself if you'r up to it or any horologist nearby. The watch got some massive water damage at one point. You need to see how the inside is. Maybe lucky, maybe not. Then Omega. If it's a memory, just change the hands and whatever is rusty or not inside. Leave the rest untouched. My point of view anyway.

For the rest obvious early 00's 2531.80. Asymmetric 3 and SL.
Thanks for advice
 
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