Omega Seamaster De Ville automatic 18k integrated bracelet

Posts
17
Likes
7
Hey Omega forums community! This is my first post, but I have been tapping in on your knowledge about vintage watches and especially Seamaster De Ville models for over a year when I first started to look for information about a watch I was considering of buying.

I have been in awe of the depth of knowledge that true enthusiasts like the members on this forum have and I appreciate every post that I came across. I have also found a new appreciation for old things that still work perfectly like the watch I ended up buying has been for maybe 60 years. Simply amazing!

Reader be advised. Text came out really long, maybe too much so but I do have six specific questions at the end of this all if you bear with me.

Well, I did buy the watch which is Omega Seamaster De Ville 18k automatic with integrated gold bracelet. I have studied the reference numbers, @PlainVanilla has amazing thread of SMDV's https://omegaforums.net/threads/the-ultimate-seamaster-de-ville-thread.159035, and Swiss 7161 might be the correct reference, but I'll of course have to check it from the inside to be sure. It's from early 60's judging from the "no t's in the dial" but with tritium lume in batons and hands, lume actually works but only for a few seconds. It has the movement with quick set date, should be caliber 562. Double signed "Turler" dial seems original and matches the Turler box that it came in. Crown is original, crystal is not - no omega logo in crystal. Hands are correct although bit suffered. I can't tell if it has been polished, at least not judging from the scratches. Photos of my watch attached. I really tried to get good quality pictures in natural light but I'm clearly not a professional and found it really difficult to prevent reflections and shadows.
I bought it from an online auction, and I didn't have a chance to see the watch live. It had no papers, but it came with a box. There were pretty good pictures though (these pictures are mine). I only knew it was seized property and later found out its previous owner was a convicted drug trafficker. The authorities auctioned it so there were no knowledgeable parties in this transaction or any information about the watch’s history, authenticity or even model. I didn't want to visit jail to ask the previous owner, so I relied to internet for information.

Thanks to different threads and posts here, how to fish, fake dials, double signed dials, lume with t or two t's or no t's, small lume dots at the end of the batons, original crowns, over polishing and so much more, I found confidence to buy the watch! I'm really happy about it and have been using it constantly for the last 10 months. It runs very well, just under a minute fast per day.

After purchasing the watch I have read possibly every post there is about SMDV's and am still looking to find out more and seems like there always is more. Unfortunately I haven't had the chance to have my watch opened yet to see the movement, reference and serial number and possible other markings inside and I'm looking forward to it.

Few weeks ago I took the watch to a Omega authorised store that specializes in high end vintage watches to get it serviced, and also I had few questions about it. They advertised on their homepage, that they always do a maintenance assessment for the watch (open it, remove movement, dial if necessary, test it for timekeeping etc.) and give an recommendation and preliminary cost estimate. In my case the storekeeper took a quick look of the watch, turned the crown and said the wind seems stiff. Then he gave the estimate. I was bit turned off, but we continued from there. To tell the truth, I didn't even know you could wind an automatic watch so I don't know too much of anything.

I specifically wanted to know about the possibility to shorten the bracelet - it is at least 1 cm too long for me. I was wondering if they thought it might be possible to source an Omega folding clasp for my bracelet so the ends of the bracelet would come closer together - my very own idea. To my surprise I was told that folding clasps have not been made for this type of bracelet, only some Constellation gold watches with much thicker bands had those and the only option for me is to have a goldsmith shorten the bracelet. I have seen a few examples of folding clasps in internet search for similar models with integrated bracelet so I was surprised they were so quick to shut down the idea. Also I wondered if the guy knew what he was talking about because I've seen the pictures. I do understand that he might not be as interested in this specific model as I am and hasn't researched it at all, but I wasn't impressed.

In my mind I thought that shortening the bracelet would be an irreversible alteration and would affect the watches value in the long run negatively because now it would fit just my wrist, maybe no-one else’s. He didn't think it would be an issue because the 34mm case wouldn't be for large wristed persons anyway. The total length of the bracelet is 20,5 cm and my wrist is freakishly thin so I'm not sure what to think about his point of view.

We discussed the service - which would cost 700€ including new crystal and crown + everything the movement will need - and the shortening of bracelet that would add 200-300€ more. I asked to have pictures taken of the movement and caseback from the inside during the service and I was told they don't do that?! He told me that they have so many watches opened at the same time, that they would easily forget to take pictures even if they promised to, so they don't do it at all. What I have learned here reading this forum, is that the first thing people ask for is the picture of the caseback and movement. I did not like this, because a frontloader like this is not casually opened so this would be my only opportunity to have the pictures taken.

Next I asked if the original crown could be saved - another thing that in my understanding is appreciated amongst the collectors - I was told that the originality doesn't matter and the most important thing is to make sure the seal is proper. Fair point of course regarding functionality but quite frankly I personally really prefer the look of the original over the service crown. Not to mention the collectivity aspect of it. I'm a noobie so I'm not sure what to think about this.

At this point I started to be a bit sceptical and wanted to see what the guy thought of the watch as a whole and asked if they would be interested in purchasing the watch from me if I wouldn't want to shorten the bracelet and thus not keep the watch for myself. This is when I was really surprised. He told me they wouldn't have any interest in the watch because it is in such a bad shape. He basically told me that the dial is ruined and the bracelet is not good. I was under the impression that the (what I thought was gold) dial in my watch is in very good shape - the crystal is scratched. He told me that the dial is actually silver and the lacquer has aged causing the yellow look and makes it really bad. I couldn't believe. He insisted.

I tried to find out what he meant about the bracelet, but he simply stated it is worn and doesn't compare to a new one. I think it's beautiful with only few minor defects.

At this point I decided not to leave the watch there for service to get a second opinion about these issues before deciding what to do about the watch. I love it, but I'm not sure if it will be THE watch for me to make sense investing so much more to it. I also want to figure out if I can trust them with servicing my watch. He seems confident and might be right but I don't quite trust his expertise. I would love to have the possibility to hear from people who I consider the true experts - watch enthusiasts here in the forum who own and treasure these classic watches yourselves. I would greatly appreciate your views on following issues - if granted.

1. Would it be a bad move in the long run to shorten the bracelet? I don't want to ruin the watch and I have gotten used to it being a bit loose.

2. Do you think it would be impossible to find a folding clasp or any other type clasp to have the extra cm off the length of the bracelet via adjustment instead of shortening it? Here's an example from previously mentioned SMDV-thread. https://i.postimg.cc/7YCZYGDN/Screenshot-20230503-111952-Chrome.jpg

3. How can you service the watch and keep it original - considering the crown's seal?

4. Is the dial on my watch gold or silver? I haven't found discussion about tainted silver dials in this forum. I know material is revealed after the dial is removed to see the back of it, but what do you think from the pictures?

5. How do I determine condition of the bracelet? In my opinion it has only few minor visible defects, it's mostly unified and intact. What makes the difference between good and bad?

6. Does the watch store seem like a reliable place for service in your opinion? It didn't feel right to me and I don't want to be ripped off or my inexperience taken advantage of.

There it is. Thank you for reading and hopefully you could share your knowledge and opinion regarding these issues. Much appreciated!
 
Posts
141
Likes
225
Now i did. I like the watch. It is solid gold which is not very common. The dial seems to be in fair condition. It might have been silver originally but it is hard to tell for me. I would not care about the shopowner talking the watch down. The laquer has even patina which is something beautiful in my opinion.
If you use it constantly and intend to keep this watch, i would ask a goldsmith to shorten the bracelet, or put on some extra pounds.
If you want to expand your collection and sell the watch in the future i wouldnt shorten the bracelet.
The bracelet looks fine! Offcourse it doesnt compare to a new one. It is old.
Dont worry about the opinion of the shopkeeper. Important is how you like your watch.
Where are you located? Maybe other forum members can recommend a knowledgable watchmaker.
 
Posts
1,636
Likes
3,384
Nice catch interesting Deville indeed. It is clear you did a lot of research before purchase. I would:

1. Find an independent watchmaker who works on vintage Omega and has Omega parts account, have the watch cleaned and serviced, no polishing, no band shortening, no replacement of parts (crown, hands). New crystal ok. Ask for movement photos. Looks like watch opens from front need special tools- dont try to open yourself.
2. Wear the watch and enjoy it
3. Come back with followup photos and info after the service

Welcome to OF!!
 
Posts
19,802
Likes
46,260
I did not read every word of the OP, so I apologize if I've missed some nuances.

Unfortunately, these integrated mesh bracelets are problematic. If you shorten it, the watch becomes useful for a smaller and smaller cohort of buyers. You will have to balance usability versus long-term value and the likelihood that you will sell it in the coming years.

I don't know if the seal can easily be replaced in that particular crown, but sometimes one needs to decide between originality and water resistance. Personally, I would choose to keep it original, and avoid moisture when wearing it. But others make the opposite choice.

The condition of the bracelet looks fine at first glance.

The person you spoke to at the repair shop did not seem to be very sensitive to issues that sometimes matter to collectors. He was more focused on pragmatism. This is fairly common with certain watch repair businesses, but I don't prefer to deal with that type of business because I don't necessarily trust them to carefully follow my wishes regarding originality. This is the type of shop that could easily decide to polish the watch against your wishes because they think the watch will look better without scratches. 😁
 
Posts
13,319
Likes
31,436
It has the movement with quick set date, should be caliber 562.

Quick-set date would be cal 565.
 
Posts
7,593
Likes
21,779
Welcome to the forum, and good on you for having done all of that research.
Agree with @SOG53 and @Dan S, and your instinct was right to not trust the repair shop.

I’m not an Omega specialist but you’ve got a nice silver dial, champagne color comes from varnishes on top of the metallic surface.

There’s nothing that’s « ruined » on the dial or bracelet.
The hour hand has some traces of corrosion - but that may be difficult to remove without causing damage.


As far as the crown is concerned, I too would choose to keep the original one. That means you have to be quite careful not to spray the watch when washing hands, and not to wear it in rainy weather— but that’s true for most vintage watches.
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
Thank you all for reading the post (at least most of it 😉 sorry about the length) and commenting! I appreciate all your opinions and help, and it gives me reassurance i made the right choice to walk out of that watch store. Maybe dodged a bullet on this one.. 😗 I must add it is only thanks to everything i have learned here from all the information and knowledge the members have so generously shared 👍 I'm so glad this forum and community exists!
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
Now i did. I like the watch. It is solid gold which is not very common. The dial seems to be in fair condition. It might have been silver originally but it is hard to tell for me. I would not care about the shopowner talking the watch down. The laquer has even patina which is something beautiful in my opinion.
If you use it constantly and intend to keep this watch, i would ask a goldsmith to shorten the bracelet, or put on some extra pounds.
If you want to expand your collection and sell the watch in the future i wouldnt shorten the bracelet.
The bracelet looks fine! Offcourse it doesnt compare to a new one. It is old.
Dont worry about the opinion of the shopkeeper. Important is how you like your watch.
Where are you located? Maybe other forum members can recommend a knowledgable watchmaker.
I have gained too many pounds already, unfortunately none of it is on my wrist 😁 so i guess shortening the bracelet is the only option here. I am located in Helsinki Finland so if someone could point me to a trustworthy watchmaker to take good care of the watch, I would be thrilled!
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
Nice catch interesting Deville indeed. It is clear you did a lot of research before purchase. I would:

1. Find an independent watchmaker who works on vintage Omega and has Omega parts account, have the watch cleaned and serviced, no polishing, no band shortening, no replacement of parts (crown, hands). New crystal ok. Ask for movement photos. Looks like watch opens from front need special tools- dont try to open yourself.
2. Wear the watch and enjoy it
3. Come back with followup photos and info after the service

Welcome to OF!!
Thank you for warm welcome and advise! I wouldn't dare to open it myself ever but i would love to be there when it happens to see everything that is hidden inside. I will definitely follow up after service as soon as i can find a place to have it done properly.
 
Posts
513
Likes
539
Longest first post ever 😁

All points have been addressed but just wanted to say the watch looks great I think. Clearly the watchmaker referring to it as “it does not look new” isn’t thinking from the same point of view as a collector or yourself buying the watch, so don’t take it too personal!
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
I did not read every word of the OP, so I apologize if I've missed some nuances.

Unfortunately, these integrated mesh bracelets are problematic. If you shorten it, the watch becomes useful for a smaller and smaller cohort of buyers. You will have to balance usability versus long-term value and the likelihood that you will sell it in the coming years.

I don't know if the seal can easily be replaced in that particular crown, but sometimes one needs to decide between originality and water resistance. Personally, I would choose to keep it original, and avoid moisture when wearing it. But others make the opposite choice.

The condition of the bracelet looks fine at first glance.

The person you spoke to at the repair shop did not seem to be very sensitive to issues that sometimes matter to collectors. He was more focused on pragmatism. This is fairly common with certain watch repair businesses, but I don't prefer to deal with that type of business because I don't necessarily trust them to carefully follow my wishes regarding originality. This is the type of shop that could easily decide to polish the watch against your wishes because they think the watch will look better without scratches. 😁
Thank you for your advice and opinion. I have read so many of your posts and respect your knowledge so it is nice to have you comment on my watch!

I am pretty sure i shouldn't shorten the bracelet at least not yet and just have it checked and serviced. After that i'll decide what to do in the long run because right know i'm not even certain if this is a good collectors piece or just chunk of gold. Maybe i could even figure out what is the most common wrist size and not shorten the bracelet below that 😁 You wouldn't happen to know what the minimum length is among Omega vintage crowd? (not mentioned in any of the threads 📖).

Everyone here seems to agree not to have service crown switched. Wouldn't it be possible to have the new crown fitted to protect the watch, but also save the original to have the option to have it in original condition later. I use the watch almost daily and i wouldn't want to have the insides of the watch damaged. I like the look of the original but would definitely like to be safe..
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
Longest first post ever 😁

All points have been addressed but just wanted to say the watch looks great I think. Clearly the watchmaker referring to it as “it does not look new” isn’t thinking from the same point of view as a collector or yourself buying the watch, so don’t take it too personal!
Strange thing IMO is that they are specialized in vintage watches so who knows.. thanks for your positive comment!
 
Posts
815
Likes
1,411
I would consider selling the current bracelet and wear it on a strap or a vintage bracelet. The longer bracelet would have more value than a shortened one.
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
I would consider selling the current bracelet and wear it on a strap or a vintage bracelet. The longer bracelet would have more value than a shortened one.
This unfortunately is not possible. It's an integrated bracelet so it cannot be changed. There are no lugs..
 
Posts
19,802
Likes
46,260
Wouldn't it be possible to have the new crown fitted to protect the watch, but also save the original to have the option to have it in original condition later. I use the watch almost daily and i wouldn't want to have the insides of the watch damaged. I like the look of the original but would definitely like to be safe..

Absolutely, you can definitely have the crown replaced and save the original crown. Just don't lose it. 👍
 
Posts
1,668
Likes
3,438
That's some first post - congratulations and welcome! And a nice watch too, well caught. Of course I agree with all of the more knowledgeable contributors above, but here's another 2c.
1. Would it be a bad move in the long run to shorten the bracelet? I don't want to ruin the watch and I have gotten used to it being a bit loose.
Only you can decide this; but if irrevocable = bad, then yes.
2. Do you think it would be impossible to find a folding clasp or any other type clasp to have the extra cm off the length of the bracelet via adjustment instead of shortening it?
See suggestion below.
6. Does the watch store seem like a reliable place for service in your opinion?
No. You need a watchmaker's shop and a goldsmith. I'm sure you'll get some local advice about that.

IMO it would be a shame to cut the bracelet for reasons given in posts above. I wasn't too clear about your clasp picture, and I can't quite work out how a "folding clasp" would solve your problem. FWIW I think the answer to your issue - which would also be tolerably period-correct - would be the old-school seatbelt closure. Illustration below is my S/S Longines: I haven't researched what OEM equivalents might be out there. I also haven't thought hard about the engineering - that's why you need the WM and the goldsmith. You could be in for quite some expense, so you have decisions ahead. But better to sell it than to cut it, I think.

 
Posts
1,636
Likes
3,384
That's some first post - congratulations and welcome! And a nice watch too, well caught. Of course I agree with all of the more knowledgeable contributors above, but here's another 2c.

Only you can decide this; but if irrevocable = bad, then yes.

See suggestion below.

No. You need a watchmaker's shop and a goldsmith. I'm sure you'll get some local advice about that.

IMO it would be a shame to cut the bracelet for reasons given in posts above. I wasn't too clear about your clasp picture, and I can't quite work out how a "folding clasp" would solve your problem. FWIW I think the answer to your issue - which would also be tolerably period-correct - would be the old-school seatbelt closure. Illustration below is my S/S Longines: I haven't researched what OEM equivalents might be out there. I also haven't thought hard about the engineering - that's why you need the WM and the goldsmith. You could be in for quite some expense, so you have decisions ahead. But better to sell it than to cut it, I think.

Interesting idea for seatbelt clasp- but anything you do to alter the bracelet will remove the unique and signed hallmarked original clasp and reduce the value. The bracelet is a pretty big part of the appeal of this watch IMO. And you may tire of wearing it on a regular everyday basis- after all this was not grandpas- it was Tony Montana's watch and you shouldnt reduce value for resale. When this bracelet/case goes into the US cleaner the first 2 jars of water will be black and you will be surprised how much it brightens up. Will look forward to updates!
 
Posts
11,077
Likes
19,487
1. Would it be a bad move in the long run to shorten the bracelet? I don't want to ruin the watch and I have gotten used to it being a bit loose.

2. Do you think it would be impossible to find a folding clasp or any other type clasp to have the extra cm off the length of the bracelet via adjustment instead of shortening it? Here's an example from previously mentioned SMDV-thread. https://i.postimg.cc/7YCZYGDN/Screenshot-20230503-111952-Chrome.jpg

3. How can you service the watch and keep it original - considering the crown's seal?

4. Is the dial on my watch gold or silver? I haven't found discussion about tainted silver dials in this forum. I know material is revealed after the dial is removed to see the back of it, but what do you think from the pictures?

5. How do I determine condition of the bracelet? In my opinion it has only few minor visible defects, it's mostly unified and intact. What makes the difference between good and bad?

6. Does the watch store seem like a reliable place for service in your opinion? It didn't feel right to me and I don't want to be ripped off or my inexperience taken advantage of.

There it is. Thank you for reading and hopefully you could share your knowledge and opinion regarding these issues. Much appreciated!

Firstly, I don’t generally like integrated bracelets. This model was available in solid gold with a standard attachment gold bracelet and for many of the reasons outlined above, I think that’s a better buy. I also think the wider market is out off these integrated bracelet models, especially in PM, for the same reason so their value is less.

1. if you’re going to keep it absolutely have it adjusted by a competent goldsmith. What’s the point having a watch in your collection that doesn’t fit you. Who cares if it will negatively impact the price in 20 Years time - the joy you’ll have had from wearing it over those years will far outweigh that.
However, if you haven’t yet decided it’s a keeper I wouldn’t do it yet. Both because it’s an expense to you and will likely negatively impact the value.

2. I think a folding clasp is a bad idea. Seems like it will look like a dogs dinner and perhaps accelerate wear to the bracelet.

3. As @Dan S says. You generally have to choose between originality and modern functionality. Very rare to have both, particularly with Omega crowns which are notoriously difficult to change the seals in. Id always go with originality, but not all shops are able to acquiesce to that if they’re an approved service centre.

4. Are you talking about colour or material. It’s not a silver dial. Id say it’s standard brass. The question is whether it originally had a silver or champagne finish and it’s hard to tell from your photos.

5. take more pictures and post them here. Is there a lot of stretch/sag? Are any links broken? Is there any evidence of poor repairs not using gold solder (ie grey/black solders)?

6. it’s hard to say based on your account. Frankly I don’t care a jot whether a watchmaker wanted to buy my watch. How does that impact their ability as a watchmaker? Also, you’ve no idea of any other factors influencing why they aren’t buying right now.
Re the estimate, that’s standard practice, quick over view, winds like gravel, our standard service charge for this type of watch is €x but to get a detailed assessment they need to open it up. Most places are unlikely to drop everything for you and start opening watches there and then (unless perhaps you have an existing relationship).
For the clasp, if they’re an Omega service centre, as far as I know, they can’t go bastardising your bracelet adding random parts from others references. They can only look on the extranet and offer you what’s available. For vintage that is generally, absolutely nothing or perhaps a moderns replacement.

I think the issue here is your expectations. You’ve taken it to an Omega approve service centre. Generally these places are quite constrained in their ability to deviate from factory specs and offer additional services.
If you go to an independent WM, you’ll probably find they able to be slightly more receptive to your ask.
 
Posts
17
Likes
7
Quick-set date would be cal 565.
I'm not 100% sure i described it correctly. I can change the date by turning the hands back to 9 when i hear a click, and when i cross 12 again the date changes.