OMEGA Nato straps

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How large is your wrist? I noted that you did not have the end folded into the keeper.

I have a 7" wrist. So both Omega NATO's lack enough 'tip' to fold back into the keeper. Fortunately it's not long enough to be objectionable. Both pictured below.

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My RAF strap for my SMP300 sits about the same.

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I am considering buying the brown leather nato, has anyone bought one of these. I can understand how the fabric ones could be better quality compared to the cheaper ones but this might not be so noticeable with leather. If I walk into the omega shop I am quite sure I will be walking out with one but if other options are available that are just as good I might be able to resist.
 
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I am considering buying the brown leather nato, has anyone bought one of these. I can understand how the fabric ones could be better quality compared to the cheaper ones but this might not be so noticeable with leather. If I walk into the omega shop I am quite sure I will be walking out with one but if other options are available that are just as good I might be able to resist.

I didn't purchase it but spent a few minutes with one at the Boutique. They had it on an AT - it was very nice. High quality.
 
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I didn't read this whole thread, but here is my take: the OEM buckles/closures are the best, but the strap quality of the aftermarket and handmade folks on this and other forums easily matches OEM quality.

That's what I typically do: use the OEM buckles with high quality, aftermarket straps.

For a nato...I would rather have 10 options to choose for $170 than one branded one...but its all personal preference and anyway, the OEM piece will hold some value.
 
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I am considering buying the brown leather nato, has anyone bought one of these. I can understand how the fabric ones could be better quality compared to the cheaper ones but this might not be so noticeable with leather. If I walk into the omega shop I am quite sure I will be walking out with one but if other options are available that are just as good I might be able to resist.
The leather nato is incredibly soft and comfortable, however I wonder if it will stretch due to said softness and comfort. The leather they use seems to be more pliable than the leathers regularly used for Nato and similar straps. Of course this also depends on how tight you wear your watch, since stretch shouldn't happen if the strap isn't worn too tight.
 
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I received one omega strap with my speedy, and bought 6 phoenix G10 straps (the original Nato strap) for £50. Those would cost >£600 from Omega. I can't tell the difference in quality. Omega is taking the piss.
 
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I want to save the bracelet on my Speedy from the daily scratches etc that it seems to attract, so I'm going to be putting it on the supplied NATO from the new box. Any tips on switching besides masking the lugs and taking it steady? Ideally I'd want the option to switch back to the bracelet (or even buy a leather strap or two) if I want to dress it up a bit and I'll be more inclined to do that if it's an easy, 5 minute job!
 
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I want to save the bracelet on my Speedy from the daily scratches etc that it seems to attract, so I'm going to be putting it on the supplied NATO from the new box. Any tips on switching besides masking the lugs and taking it steady? Ideally I'd want the option to switch back to the bracelet (or even buy a leather strap or two) if I want to dress it up a bit and I'll be more inclined to do that if it's an easy, 5 minute job!

Sounds like you have it covered shirt if dropping by a Boutique and having them take care of it. Good call on the swap out!
 
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I want to save the bracelet on my Speedy from the daily scratches etc that it seems to attract, so I'm going to be putting it on the supplied NATO from the new box. Any tips on switching besides masking the lugs and taking it steady? Ideally I'd want the option to switch back to the bracelet (or even buy a leather strap or two) if I want to dress it up a bit and I'll be more inclined to do that if it's an easy, 5 minute job!
Nothing special about swapping a speedy bracelet. Spend $25 on the correct swiss tool, a steady hand and good lighting.

I swap all the time and never leave marks. The only marks on my watches are typically put there by ADs!

The good news is, unless its a collector piece, I've found most people don't mind a minor mark or two on the backside of the lugs.
 
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So, I gave the switch a go today. A little tricky to start with but got the bracelet off after a couple of minutes fiddling.

However, the small retaining lugs on the bracelet scratched the underside of the case lugs when I slipped each end off!
The worst scratch is on the top-left lug. What did I do wrong? I know it's on,y the underside, but still annoying and I'd rather I hadn't scratched it! Anyway, the results...
 
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Ooph, sorry you ended up leaving a scratch mark via the bracelet solid end links as opposed to the from the changing tool. One trick with solid end link removal is to do it via pushing up towards you (ie towards the case back) instead of out away from where the case meets the lugs. Of course you have to remove the spring bar before doing this, which takes some careful wiggling, but it ensures that the little "wings" on the solid end links don't end up dragging across the backs of the lugs.
One good thing is that the scratch doesn't look to bad and/or deep, so a slight polish with a Cape Cod cloth should be enough to remove the imperfection.
 
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Yeah I tried that actually, bringing the end link towards me to prevent that scratching, but there didn't seem to be enough 'give' in it to do that. Maybe it was my technique!

I have some Cape Cod cloth. Haven't used it yet but might see how it does on those scratches. Any tips for using it? Cheers.
 
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Yeah I tried that actually, bringing the end link towards me to prevent that scratching, but there didn't seem to be enough 'give' in it to do that. Maybe it was my technique!

I have some Cape Cod cloth. Haven't used it yet but might see how it does on those scratches. Any tips for using it? Cheers.

Yah, you kind of have to push in one end of the spring bar, then move it onto the interior of the lug, then do the same to the other end of the spring bar before pushing it all out in one motion. There is a chance for scratching the interior of the lugs, but it's in a less noticeable location (which will almost always be covered by a strap or a bracelet) and of the dozens of times I've used this method I haven't seen anything more than very light buffing and no deep scratches.

Just take it easy and slow at first with the cape cod cloth, and for added precision use a q-tip with some of the cotton head taken off. Too much of the cotton swab part and the contact point is too large, too little of the cotton material and the stem or stick is a bit too hard and pointy to get the right amount of cape cod cloth polishing beneath.

Best of luck with the scratch removal, shame that it happened on your new piece.
 
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Yah, you kind of have to push in one end of the spring bar, then move it onto the interior of the lug, then do the same to the other end of the spring bar before pushing it all out in one motion. There is a chance for scratching the interior of the lugs, but it's in a less noticeable location (which will almost always be covered by a strap or a bracelet) and of the dozens of times I've used this method I haven't seen anything more than very light buffing and no deep scratches.

Just take it easy and slow at first with the cape cod cloth, and for added precision use a q-tip with some of the cotton head taken off. Too much of the cotton swab part and the contact point is too large, too little of the cotton material and the stem or stick is a bit too hard and pointy to get the right amount of cape cod cloth polishing beneath.

Best of luck with the scratch removal, shame that it happened on your new piece.

Thanks for the tip - and the sympathy! The method (for bracelet removal) is kind of what I tried to do, but I obviously didn't have the right technique!

I cut a small strip of cape cod cloth and wrapped it around the end of a very small syringe (seemed like the ideal size/shape for a polishing tool) and went at the worst scratch, masking off the surrounding areas. Nearly half an hour later and there was barely any difference! I think it may be too deep to get rid of - or maybe it just needs more work. There is also a gouge next to the serial number that is probably too close (to the number) and too deep to resolve.

Bugger. I'll give the cape cod another few goes and see if it improves. Hopefully come service time it'll be sorted out by the Pro's. Just annoying that despite my efforts not to scratch the case with the removal tool, the bracelet itself did the damage!
 
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Thanks for the tip - and the sympathy! The method (for bracelet removal) is kind of what I tried to do, but I obviously didn't have the right technique!

I cut a small strip of cape cod cloth and wrapped it around the end of a very small syringe (seemed like the ideal size/shape for a polishing tool) and went at the worst scratch, masking off the surrounding areas. Nearly half an hour later and there was barely any difference! I think it may be too deep to get rid of - or maybe it just needs more work. There is also a gouge next to the serial number that is probably too close (to the number) and too deep to resolve.

Bugger. I'll give the cape cod another few goes and see if it improves. Hopefully come service time it'll be sorted out by the Pro's. Just annoying that despite my efforts not to scratch the case with the removal tool, the bracelet itself did the damage!

If you run your fingernail across the scratch and the nail catches and doesn't just "skip" over then no amount of polishing will get rid of those deep gouges, so you'll probably need a new case or just have to live with the scars which isn't too bad in the long run; they add character!
 
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I suppose if I can't get rid of the scratches, they'll at least be covered up when I put the bracelet back on! Ironic really that in changing the strap to prevent damage, I've actually caused more!
 
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I suppose if I can't get rid of the scratches, they'll at least be covered up when I put the bracelet back on! Ironic really that in changing the strap to prevent damage, I've actually caused more!
Eh, It's on the back, no one will see.
 
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It's not damage, it's a couple of scratches...it's a speedmaster, it can handle that if you can.
 
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I hear you guys. It's a watch I plan to keep for a lifetime and pass on to my kids - it's going to pick up scratches and the accumulation of those scratches tell a story. I have my grandfathers '76 Constellation that shows nearly 40 years of wear and I love that timepiece dearly. I hope my kids will feel same about mine.

Every scratch and scrape still makes me cringe though, haha!
 
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A mark or two is good, now you wont be afraid to wear it. Same reason I dont get the hood repainted on my 84 911 to remove the rock chips...it would be too nice to drive.