Omega Constellation 1953

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Thanks @gatorcpa I'm living in Switzerland at the moment, although usually the UK. There's a nice 1953 Globemaster on CR24 I looked at, probably sounds stupid, but I do quite want the script "Constellation" on the dial. What's the thoughts on engravings like this one? There's something charming about it but I'm guessing it's not sought after unless it's something like Frank Sinatra 😀
I like the watch you posted, very nice. Is that yours?

That watch was offered to me once by a Swiss dealer. I always wanted to post it for discussion to see what members thought about the missing text as Desmond writes it his article that it may command a premium as it’s rare. Personnally, I‘m with you. I didn’t want to pay a premium for a missing word that I actually like to be on the dial. It was offered to me for CHF 3600 but I passed for the missing Constellation text and the engraving, which I didn’t like. But the case is sharp and the dial very clean. The dealer subsequently sold it to somebody else who now seems to try to flip it for double. I haven’t seen it on C24 but it was also listed on ricardo for 7500 if I remember correctly.
 
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If anything, Globemasters sell for slightly less than equivalent Constellations. This is most likely over concerns about authenticity from those who have not read the excellent article by @mondodec .

http://users.tpg.com.au/mondodec//Globemasterpost.pdf

Two things to look for on “no name” Constellations:

1. “Swiss” rather than “Swiss Made” in very small print below the 6 o’clock marker.

2. “OXG” US import mark on balance bridge. Usually hand stamped, so quality varies.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa
 
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If anything, Globemasters sell for slightly less than equivalent Constellations. This is most likely over concerns about authenticity from those who have not read the excellent article by @mondodec .

http://users.tpg.com.au/mondodec//Globemasterpost.pdf

Two things to look for on “no name” Constellations:

1. “Swiss” rather than “Swiss Made” in very small print below the 6 o’clock marker.

2. “OXG” US import mark on balance bridge. Usually hand stamped, so quality varies.

Hope this helps,
gatorcpa

Thanks for clarifying @gatorcpa. I did read his fantastic article, but I was misquoting Desmond.

He wrote (p. 4):
As such, they should be treasured with the knowledge that their rarity will add an increasing premium to their value.

He does not refer to a relative premium over a standard Constellation but just that the Globemasters should increase in value in their own right.

Apologies for the misinformation!
 
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That rose gold one 3) sold. Seen a few more interesting ones ...
4) Looks like a really nice condition gold cap (think that's the right term), seems like a reasonable price too at £1.5k.
 
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5) This is 1956 and has undergone "complete overhaul at the Omega concessionaire" but looks pretty good to me, also not a crazy price at £1.7k.
 
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6) This one I'd appreciate the most feedback on, it's a 1952 and the notes regarding the dial say "heavy but fairly even patina, giving it a gold/yellow tone". If it was yours would you do anything to 'refresh' this? Or would that ruin it? I guess that's going to be a question of personal preference. Price on this is similar to the other two at £1.5k.
 
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To me, 5 looks dodgy, 6 looks ok. I’m no expert on the bumpers, I prefer the full rotors so treat my advice with some caution here. That said, the text on 5 looks poor and rather blurry.
 
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To me, 5 looks dodgy, 6 looks ok. I’m no expert on the bumpers, I prefer the full rotors so treat my advice with some caution here. That said, the text on 5 looks poor and rather blurry.

Agree.

I’m no expert on these but 5 is surely a redial.
 
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Decent cases on 4,5&6
No 4 has either been cleaned of (radium?) lume, had the hands replaced or is one of those ‘vexatious’ examples with just lumed hands.
(Please show entire watch -not cropped as with no4- as you often need the whole picture to assess a watch)

No 5 is redial.

No6
Looks good but you need straight on shots of the dial to be sure of any watch.
Can’t make out the serial to estimate age.
What is the ref number? As it’s an early watch to have a screw back.

you really shouldn’t be thinking of cleaning any dial unless it’s already toast.
The dial looks quite nice - Depending on whether those light spots are prominent.

All these prices look too good to be true unless they are from a collector divesting their collection.
 
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Decent cases on 4,5&6
No 4 has either been cleaned of (radium?) lume, had the hands replaced or is one of those ‘vexatious’ examples with just lumed hands.
(Please show entire watch -not cropped as with no4- as you often need the whole picture to assess a watch)

No 5 is redial.

No6
Looks good but you need straight on shots of the dial to be sure of any watch.
Can’t make out the serial to estimate age.
What is the ref number? As it’s an early watch to have a screw back.

you really shouldn’t be thinking of cleaning any dial unless it’s already toast.
The dial looks quite nice - Depending on whether those light spots are prominent.

All these prices look too good to be true unless they are from a collector divesting their collection.

Thanks for your feedback, appreciated! What gives 5) away as a redial? Is it the font? Just on gut feeling it looks a combo of too good to be true and missing a bit of class.

Agree with your comments on 6), the light patch under Constellation bothers me. But from my reading so far looks original and pretty sure I can make out the signed crystal. Serial number is 13068376 which makes it 1952 on the decoder website. I've rotated the attached 90 degrees to give a decent straight on pic.
 
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Thanks for your feedback, appreciated! What gives 5) away as a redial? Is it the font?

The script is crude and the wrong font.
The cross hairs are heavy.
The minute haches are inconsistent in weight and also in their positioning relative to the edge of the central pane.
The edge of the central pane is wavy in several places.
 
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The script is crude and the wrong font.
The cross hairs are heavy.
The minute haches are inconsistent in weight and also in their positioning relative to the edge of the central pane.
The edge of the central pane is wavy in several places.
Thank you, that's perfect. I feel like I'm getting my eye-in on the cases, still a lot to learn on the dials!
 
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That is a great point, I hadn't thought it specifically but you're right I will definitely do that. I have reasonable confidence the size and shape is what I'm looking for, but there's nothing like having it in your hand!
I would second this advice I just found my first cal 354 and the bumper movement is definitely something you feel clanking around a bit. I like it now.
 
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Hello all,

I'm still keeping a lookout for a 1952/53 Constellation ... more with patience on Private Sales than in a rush on Chrono24 these days.

I came across this watch idly looking for auction sites other than Ebay. On first glance I got excited, it's a lot of what I'm looking for. However the hands look in a much worse state than the case and dial and I don't know much but the rub on the movement doesn't seem great from comments I've read on other posts in the forum.

Is the dial too good to be true? Looks to pass the MOY to me, correct crossed ts, different ns.

On the Saleroom site (I guess that's an auction aggregator) I saw there is a bid of £900 on it already and tax/fees of 32.34% -> £1,200. Seems punchy to me.

Here's the text from the listing:

Omega Constellation Chronometer 'bumper' automatic stainless steel gentleman's wristwatch, reference no. 2652-1, serial no. 1391xxxx, circa 1952/53, silvered dial with applied dagger markers, sweep centre seconds and dauphine hands, cal. 354 17 jewel movement, the case back engraved with the initial 'B.W.M', leather strap with Omega buckle, 35mm
-
** A fine vintage watch presented with the original Constellation box, rare Omega tag, certificates and the Guarantee of Origin delivered to Kung Bros & Co, Watch Dept, Hong Kong dated December 27th 1955

More Information
Movement - currently functioning.
Dial - good.
Glass - light marks.
Hands - light marks.
Case - some typical light marks, minor scratch mark to the reverse but not deep - see images.
Crown - Omega crown adjusting correctly .
Strap - vintage strap in good general condition.
Papers - We believe the guarantee certificate was incorrectly issued at the time of purchase with the last digit incorrect by one digit, some probably a shop clerking error.
 
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There's a missing gasket on the last one, and the Omega logo on the dial is all over the place.

Very interesting thread and very good approach to the hobby! Enjoy the hunt man, and find the right watch for you. 😉
 
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Legit watch, nice example and it won't stay anywhere near the price it's currently at. Arrowhead indices go significantly higher than other dial variants; it comes with box, inlay and papers, and it's rather sharp. Yes, it's not perfect, but I wouldn't be surprised if this reached a total of ~2k$+.
 
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Thanks both for the feedback.

@PlainVanilla thank you! I think this thread is going to be a litany of my goofy comments. Cringed looking back at how obvious that redial is!

@MtV thank you that’s perfect. I've realised it’s difficult to find good dials from the early 50s. That bit older and less waterproof. If this is legit it really appeals. In an ideal world I would rather gold arrowheads but that’s not a showstopper. Do you know how easy it is to find replacement hands? I have also already blown my budget on 1960s Connies 😁
🤦
 
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Thanks both for the feedback.

@PlainVanilla thank you! I think this thread is going to be a litany of my goofy comments. Cringed looking back at how obvious that redial is!

@MtV thank you that’s perfect. I've realised it’s difficult to find good dials from the early 50s. That bit older and less waterproof. If this is legit it really appeals. In an ideal world I would rather gold arrowheads but that’s not a showstopper. Do you know how easy it is to find replacement hands? I have also already blown my budget on 1960s Connies 😁
🤦

Are you asking because of the corrosion on those hands? Honestly, I wouldn't want to be searching for a set of clean, steel, non-luminous replacement hands for one of those. Not easy at all...