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Omega 50-60s ID help

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Earlier today I bought this Vintage Omega and I would like to know a few stuff.

First:
Is it authentic. From the little research I did (chat GPT) it seems like it but i know that is far from being the best source to get my info.

Second:
Dial. I would like to know if its possible that its dial has been painted/ restored previously and if the hands are the correct ones to the watch.

Third:
Service. If everything checks out what would be a good place to service it on the Bay Area, Ca.

Fourth:
Model/ Period correct buckle, also any recommendation on a good place to look for them would be appreciated.

Thats about it.

https://imgur.com/a/Y1Tjaes
 
padders
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Post a pic and we will help. I tried your link but it is not accessible in my primitive backwater (the UK).
 
Dan S
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Looks ok. 60s. Try a forum search for some of your questions.
 
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padders padders
Post a pic and we will help. I tried your link but it is not accessible in my primitive backwater (the UK).
I’m sorry couldn’t figure out how to upload pictures earlier.

IMG_1500.webp IMG_1501.webp IMG_1502.webp
 
Dan S
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US-cased (low karat gold-filled) with US import code on movement. The movement photo doesn't show the serial number unfortunately, you would need to move the rotor. Looks like some corrosion in the movement due to water ingress, and some rotor rub on case-back and bridge. It's an entry-level vintage Omega that could require significant investment for movement repair/service. One oclock lug looks slightly bent.
 
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Dan S Dan S
US-cased (low karat gold-filled) with US import code on movement. The movement photo doesn't show the serial number unfortunately, you would need to move the rotor. Looks like some corrosion in the movement due to water ingress, and some rotor rub on case-back and bridge. It's an entry-level vintage Omega that could require significant investment for movement repair/service. One oclock lug looks slightly bent.

Thanks for the info, I missed on that when I picked it up. This is my first watch purchase and definitely didn’t know what I was looking for when inspecting the watch. Would you consider it’s worth it to invest the money on it or should I save instead and invest it on a nicer piece?

Ps.
IMG_1503.webp
 
Dan S
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1965-ish.

Personally, I would be hard-pressed to invest money in this watch, but others might feel differently. TBH, I wouldn't buy a watch in a 10k gold-filled case to begin with, but if you want to buy a watch like that, then just wear it until it stops working, don't invest more in it. My thinking is that you really don't want to go down a rabbit hole with potentially expensive repairs for a watch with limited upside.
 
O
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Serial number dates to 1965. Trituim lume.
If you like it and it works wear it proudly.
 
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O Ozymandiss
Serial number dates to 1965. Trituim lume.
If you like it and it works wear it proudly.

Definitely will! Now its just a waiting game until the watch arrives.
 
bardamu
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I can't tell if it's actually missing a bezel or not...
 
sheepdoll
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Bezel looks good to me.

I think this is a nice looking rat-watch. Hopefully the OP did not pay too much.

I am from the SF bay area but I self service. Make my own straps too.

There are a number of watch repair places about. Most seem to not be Swiss trained. The cost of living here can be higher than it is in Switzerland. From the certificates on the wall, I think most of the local repairers went to Asian schools. One has to shop around a bit. For things I can not do myself, I like the guy in the Concord Ace hardware. There is always people bringing stuff into him to look at.

There may be more high end places on the peninsula or in the south bay. Stuff in the City seems to be more for tourist and those with more money than sense. The sort who want champagne and caviar with their watch. Same goes for Marin and Sonoma counties.

Actually I have yet to find a local that I fully trust. At one time I was thinking of getting my speedy done as I do not have all the adjusting tools and fixtures. Especially to get the case seals right. Since I banged it up a bit, I doubt I will wear it like I did in the 1990s. No real need to do any service on it, when it just sits there where I can look at it from time to time.

I fixed up some Apple watches, which tend to get most of the wrist time, although I let it run down over the weekend. So wound up wearing the quartz constellation and setting the date today.

For the last few years I have been focusing more on watches like the OP shows. These are great watches, the movements have the potential to last 500 years or so if properly maintained. Something any competent watchmaker could do. Not so sure about the longevity of plated cases. These may only be good for a century or so. Stainless steel who knows how long on that.

Rat watches like this can get quite addictive. They also have a tendency to breed, which can get quite expensive.
 
F
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sheepdoll sheepdoll
Bezel looks good to me.

I think this is a nice looking rat-watch. Hopefully the OP did not pay too much.

I am from the SF bay area but I self service. Make my own straps too.

There are a number of watch repair places about. Most seem to not be Swiss trained. The cost of living here can be higher than it is in Switzerland. From the certificates on the wall, I think most of the local repairers went to Asian schools. One has to shop around a bit. For things I can not do myself, I like the guy in the Concord Ace hardware. There is always people bringing stuff into him to look at.

There may be more high end places on the peninsula or in the south bay. Stuff in the City seems to be more for tourist and those with more money than sense. The sort who want champagne and caviar with their watch. Same goes for Marin and Sonoma counties.

Actually I have yet to find a local that I fully trust. At one time I was thinking of getting my speedy done as I do not have all the adjusting tools and fixtures. Especially to get the case seals right. Since I banged it up a bit, I doubt I will wear it like I did in the 1990s. No real need to do any service on it, when it just sits there where I can look at it from time to time.

I fixed up some Apple watches, which tend to get most of the wrist time, although I let it run down over the weekend. So wound up wearing the quartz constellation and setting the date today.

For the last few years I have been focusing more on watches like the OP shows. These are great watches, the movements have the potential to last 500 years or so if properly maintained. Something any competent watchmaker could do. Not so sure about the longevity of plated cases. These may only be good for a century or so. Stainless steel who knows how long on that.

Rat watches like this can get quite addictive. They also have a tendency to breed, which can get quite expensive.

I wish I had the time and patience to at least know enough to work on my own pieces. Will definitely look into Concord Ace in the future but today I decided to cancel the order. Even though I love how that watch looks it looks like I overpaid for the works that need to be done to it. Really appreciate the help you guys provided.
 
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Update:

So I found a nicer looking example that I want to pull the trigger on but after inspecting and compering the dials for authenticity I found that this dial says “Swiss T” while the previous example had “T Swiss T”. Looked around on the internet and found other pieces that dont have anything on the bottom of the dial. Could it be a redial/ fake or are were there variations on the dial from factory?

IMG_1530.webp IMG_1531.webp
 
O
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F fresh
Update:

So I found a nicer looking example that I want to pull the trigger on but after inspecting and compering the dials for authenticity I found that this dial says “Swiss T” while the previous example had “T Swiss T”. Looked around on the internet and found other pieces that dont have anything on the bottom of the dial. Could it be a redial/ fake or are were there variations on the dial from factory?

IMG_1530.webp IMG_1531.webp
Not sure if I can see lume on the dial/hands which the T indicates. Easy to see on the second pic.
F fresh
Update:

So I found a nicer looking example that I want to pull the trigger on but after inspecting and compering the dials for authenticity I found that this dial says “Swiss T” while the previous example had “T Swiss T”. Looked around on the internet and found other pieces that dont have anything on the bottom of the dial. Could it be a redial/ fake or are were there variations on the dial from factory?

IMG_1530.webp IMG_1531.webp
 
O
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For what it’s worth, I liked the first “rat watch” you were interested in.
 
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O Ozymandiss
Not sure if I can see lume on the dial/hands which the T indicates. Easy to see on the second pic.

My bad, here are some better pictures. Tbh there reason why I decided to pass on the other one is mostly its corroded movement.

IMG_1533.webp IMG_1532.webp
 
O
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Ah yes, I see it now. And, for what it’s worth (not much), I completely understand your decision. It did look cool, however.
 
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