Newbie looking for a first vintage Omega

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Hello all,

I’ve recently decided to look into getting my first “adult watch”. I love vintage things that you wouldn’t routinely find in the wilderness so naturally a vintage omega excites me. With research, I was instantly struck by the 1960s catalogues because of the fun mid century look. The uniqueness of the transitory period of the seamaster deville as well as the striking pie pan constellations have a lot of history and elegance.

As I’ve been scouring the internet, I’ve come across this criss-cross/diagonally crossed linen texture on the seamaster deville and seamaster 30. I think it really has a clean and unique look I haven’t seen elsewhere, and it got me thinking, did the constellations ever use this same texture? I’ve seen some constellations with Linen dials as shown, but they have a much different characteristic as the firsts. And if possible I really love the pie pan and dog legs of the 168.05, but not sure if pie pan and linen are even a thing.

Ultimately, I’m really looking for a piece I can dress up or down and keep for me for the rest of my life as I grow my collection. Maybe even passing on to my kids some day. I think why I’m reluctant to jump on the seamaster 30 or the deville, is because they’ve been described to me as more entry level models (usually no chronometer certification) and less collectable/rare (mass marketed in the day), though maybe that not entirely the right way of looking at things. So naturally, the flagship constellation with this particular linen texture meets the best of both worlds.

Maybe the only real solution is just buying both 🤓

Any insight, recommendations, concerns with authenticity/redials would be greatly appreciated with where I’m at. I genuinely look forward to learning from you gurus throughout this journey!

Spruce · Mar 16, 2026

Where are you located?
What is your budget?
What are the prices of the watches you have posted?

You really need to spend more time on research and a good place to start is with the OF thread
‘Learn how to fish’

Passover · Mar 16, 2026

Hi and welcome!

Don't act too fast, take your time!

For example the 168.018 #3 has serious quality issues (polishing, scratches on the back, IMO the dial is dirty) and is WAY overpriced

Good luck on your vintage watch journey! 👍

Dan S · Mar 16, 2026

I don't like the condition of the case on #3. #1 might be ok, but if the case is gold-filled ... meh.

#2 could be ok at the right price, if you are ok with the case. Sometimes you make compromises if you really want a particular watch.

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Spruce
Where are you located?
What is your budget?
What are the prices of the watches you have posted?

You really need to spend more time on research and a good place to start is with the OF thread
‘Learn how to fish’

I’m located in the Chicagoland area. I’d say ideally 1500-3000 usd, but if it’s the right piece i could budget closer to $4500. I think $1750, $2900, $3300 respectively. I know watch 2 and 3 are overpriced, I’m just thinking more of a comparison of style. I’ll be sure to check out the thread, thanks!

Dan S · Mar 16, 2026

Those prices are silly. You need to get off Chrono24 and dealer websites.

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Passover
Hi and welcome!

Don't act too fast, take your time!

For example the 168.018 #3 has serious quality issues (polishing, scratches on the back, IMO the dial is dirty) and is WAY overpriced

Good luck on your vintage watch journey! 👍

Great advice! I’ve been slowly learning more and more. Been considering for a while now, but only really seriously looking into purchasing the past couple of weeks.

Regarding #3, I completely agree. I merely used it as a reference for linen dials I’ve seen for constellations compared to the two linens previously listed. I do like the model, but yes, entirely way too expensive from what I’ve seen, and the dial does look dirty, particularly in the left lower quadrant. Thanks for the luck! I’m not going to lie, I tend to over research, so it’s probably going to be a while 😅

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Dan S
I don't like the condition of the case on #3. #1 might be ok, but if the case is gold-filled ... meh.

#2 could be ok at the right price, if you are ok with the case. Sometimes you make compromises if you really want a particular watch.

Dan S
Those prices are silly. You need to get off Chrono24 and dealer websites.

Yes, #3 was just an example to compare linen textures and how I’ve not seen the texture in #1 and #2 in the Connie’s. I am not considering buying #3. I like #1, it’s clean, but it is gold capped. Not solid gold. #2 is way over priced, again not purchasing, but I do really like some of the design elements.

Unfortunately I’m still learning, so these have been quick references for me to see “what’s out there”. Do you have a recommendation on where to peruse authentic listings for reasonable prices? I guess EBay and the likes make me a little nervous due to concern for redials and what not. Thanks!

Dan S · Mar 16, 2026

You can start by searching the private listings on this site for SMDV sales. Most will be already sold, but at least you can get an idea of fair pricing vs condition.

Spruce · Mar 16, 2026

If you see something on eBay, take your time looking at the photos, read the seller’s description carefully and make sure that you avoid anything that suggests a redial; restored, refurbished, refinished etc, or some such euphemism or no mention of the dial at all.

Be sceptical about the watch being serviced - you’re generally better of getting it done yourself - and you’ll get recommendations from other OF members of reliable watchmakers in your area - if you want them.

And, finally, if you find a watch you think you like, BEFORE YOU BUY IT, start a new thread and post all the photos and a link to the seller’s post on eBay and details of price and location.

Check, if on eBay the sellers reputation and if you’re buying elsewhere, google search the seller.

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Dan S
You can start by searching the private listings on this site for SMDV sales. Most will be already sold, but at least you can get an idea of fair pricing vs condition.

Thanks for the advice. Anything to get a fair price is greatly appreciated. Especially with the markups these boutiques/websites add on.

Have you ever seen a similar linen dial in the first two in the Connie? Not sure if it’s a thing or perhaps because they came from different dial makers (Singer, Stern Frères, etc.) maybe they just never had that similar texture produced in the constellation?

As someone who still has so much to learn and appreciate in the horological world, how should I appreciate these different pieces? Is the constellation inherently better due to automatic movements, chronometer certification, and it being designed as the flagship model? Sure, probably. Should I give a SMDV any time of day as it was mass produced, and less rare, despite being a cool transitory line that sparks conversation? Is the gold plated SMDV more lackluster per your comment because it’s not the top of a line solid gold watch on a model that’s not already the premier model?

Please don’t read these questions as hostile, I’m genuinely curious and want to learn. I try to read up on the history on my free time, but understanding current sentiment/collectibility/uniqueness is harder to gauge at my current knowledge. Thanks for any insight and contributing to the conversation!

Sirhams · Mar 16, 2026

Spruce
If you see something on eBay, take your time looking at the photos, read the seller’s description carefully and make sure that you avoid anything that suggests a redial; restored, refurbished, refinished etc, or some such euphemism or no mention of the dial at all.

Be sceptical about the watch being serviced - you’re generally better of getting it done yourself - and you’ll get recommendations from other OF members of reliable watchmakers in your area - if you want them.

And, finally, if you find a watch you think you like, BEFORE YOU BUY IT, start a new thread and post all the photos and a link to the seller’s post on eBay and details of price and location.

Check, if on eBay the sellers reputation and if you’re buying elsewhere, google search the seller.

This post was gold, thank you! I haven’t even scratched the surface of OF so it’ll be nice to see all of the resources/knowledge I now have! Yeah the eBay comment is great. While the idea of buying from a boutique/reputable dealer sounds convenient, the idea of finding a quality piece for perhaps reasonable prices sound nice, but the idea of a fake/redial/frankenwatch can be intimidating at this stage.

SOG53 · Mar 16, 2026

Gaining knowledge with vintage watches takes time, but the process is fun. Since you expressed interest in SMDV and constellation take your time and peruse these 2 threads you will see and learn a lot.

Don’t get lost in the weeds at first, just let it wash over you and see which watches appeal most to you.

Then research that one and become expert before buying. All info you need is here along with friendly “guides” to help you. We were all beginners too. Ask before buying. Don’t rush.

Welcome!

https://omegaforums.net/threads/the-ultimate-seamaster-de-ville-thread.159035/

Thread 'The ULTIMATE Seamaster de Ville thread' ·

Hello my fellow collectors and enthusiasts,

Despite it being a very popular model amongst vintage Omega watch collectors, there is still much confusion around the Seamaster de Ville (SMDV), and...

PlainVanilla · Apr 29, 2023

https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-constellations-show-and-tell.19186/

Thread 'Vintage Constellations. Show and tell' ·

Please show your vintage Constellations.

Would be great to see the variations in a new thread. I'll go first.

1961 Pie pan, Cal 561, Case Ref 14393, on a period 7912 Bracelet (stainless steel)...

JohnSteed · Dec 3, 2014

Dan S · Mar 16, 2026

Sirhams
Thanks for the advice. Anything to get a fair price is greatly appreciated. Especially with the markups these boutiques/websites add on.

Have you ever seen a similar linen dial in the first two in the Connie? Not sure if it’s a thing or perhaps because they came from different dial makers (Singer, Stern Frères, etc.) maybe they just never had that similar texture produced in the constellation?

As someone who still has so much to learn and appreciate in the horological world, how should I appreciate these different pieces? Is the constellation inherently better due to automatic movements, chronometer certification, and it being designed as the flagship model? Sure, probably. Should I give a SMDV any time of day as it was mass produced, and less rare, despite being a cool transitory line that sparks conversation? Is the gold plated SMDV more lackluster per your comment because it’s not the top of a line solid gold watch on a model that’s not already the premier model?

Please don’t read these questions as hostile, I’m genuinely curious and want to learn. I try to read up on the history on my free time, but understanding current sentiment/collectibility/uniqueness is harder to gauge at my current knowledge. Thanks for any insight and contributing to the conversation!

SMDV is a perfectly good starter piece. As long as you avoid gold-plated/filled, the watches were high quality and made to last. A gold-capped over SS case in good condition would be fine if you want gold.

I have definitely seen c-case Constellations with linen dials. However, the first two you showed are not linen dials.

Overall, take some time, participate in the community, and learn. There is a lot to learn.

Sirhams · Mar 17, 2026

SOG53
Gaining knowledge with vintage watches takes time, but the process is fun. Since you expressed interest in SMDV and constellation take your time and peruse these 2 threads you will see and learn a lot.

Don’t get lost in the weeds at first, just let it wash over you and see which watches appeal most to you.

Then research that one and become expert before buying. All info you need is here along with friendly “guides” to help you. We were all beginners too. Ask before buying. Don’t rush.

Welcome!

https://omegaforums.net/threads/the-ultimate-seamaster-de-ville-thread.159035/

Thread 'The ULTIMATE Seamaster de Ville thread' ·
Hello my fellow collectors and enthusiasts,

Despite it being a very popular model amongst vintage Omega watch collectors, there is still much confusion around the Seamaster de Ville (SMDV), and...

PlainVanilla · Apr 29, 2023

https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-constellations-show-and-tell.19186/

Thread 'Vintage Constellations. Show and tell' ·
Please show your vintage Constellations.

Would be great to see the variations in a new thread. I'll go first.

1961 Pie pan, Cal 561, Case Ref 14393, on a period 7912 Bracelet (stainless steel)...

JohnSteed · Dec 3, 2014

thank you very much for the tips and resources. Interestingly enough, I had read through PlainVanilla’s thread months ago while doing research. That ribbon dial is quite something!

I guess the biggest thing I need to do is just decide what specific watch I want to get and then I can start the hunt. I did take Dan’s advice and perused the private listings here. Pretty jarring how much more reasonable the prices are for, on average, better maintained pieces.

Sirhams · Mar 17, 2026

Dan S
SMDV is a perfectly good starter piece. As long as you avoid gold-plated/filled, the watches were high quality and made to last. A gold-capped over SS case in good condition would be fine if you want gold.

I have definitely seen c-case Constellations with linen dials. However, the first two you showed are not linen dials.

Overall, take some time, participate in the community, and learn. There is a lot to learn.

Got it, that definitely makes sense. I definitely would want the durability of cap for gold at a minimum.

Yes I have seen linen dials in c-cases as well. I just prefer the dog leg lugs better. Interestingly, in Plainvanilla’s post that SOG53 posted does have that particular linen variant listed, I’ll attach it.

Thanks again for your recommendations. I look forward to growing more in this journey.

Sirhams · Mar 17, 2026

Screwbacks
at this point in time, i will be choosy, selective and focus on what and why i buy vintage watch especially as a newbie and considering prices really went up for the past years. with that $4,500 budget in mind, the three samples are actually good starters. but to be one for the buck, memorable as a first vintage collection, i'll buy only two - the linen black dial (with subsection simple complication) and go for my first speedy collection available, the speedmaster 022 racing dial posted on private sale here. of course, the trick of the trade is negotiate and negotiate.

just my one cent, and no relation with the seller whatsoever. 😉

Black linen dial sounds intriguing. How often does something like that pop up? Do you worry about redials with black dials, or does the linen help reduce that risk?

Peemacgee · Mar 17, 2026

Welcome @Sirhams
Great advice above about focusing on what you want and really getting to know all about that reference.

If you like doglegs and pie pans, check out 2 OF threads :
PPP pie pan porn
168.005/168.005

If the dial isn’t there it most likely doesn’t exist.

IIRC linen dial were only on C cases and 168.016/018 constellations. ( both flat dials)
The nearest thing in other Constellations would be a hobnail/ waffle dial but I’m not sure they appear on dogleg pie pans.

Assume all black dials are redials until proven otherwise but linen and textured dials generally do present problems for rediallers.

BTW the 168.018 you show is at least 3 or 4 times overpriced for that reference in that condition.

Sirhams · Mar 17, 2026

Peemacgee
Welcome @Sirhams
Great advice above about focusing on what you want and really getting to know all about that reference.

If you like doglegs and pie pans, check out 2 OF threads :
PPP pie pan porn
168.005/168.005

If the dial isn’t there it most likely doesn’t exist.

IIRC linen dial were only on C cases and 168.016/018 constellations. ( both flat dials)
The nearest thing in other Constellations would be a hobnail/ waffle dial but I’m not sure they appear on dogleg pie pans.

Assume all black dials are redials until proven otherwise but linen and textured dials generally do present problems for rediallers.

BTW the 168.018 you show is at least 3 or 4 times overpriced for that reference in that condition.

I will check out those threads, thanks! This is why I’m so excited about the community, so many resources and bright minds!

That’s my concern with black dials, so I’ll be sure to create a thread if ever considering one. Yes the 168.018 is a model I’m intrigued about, but the condition of the example is something I’m not interested in, and is significantly over priced. Thanks again for your post, I greatly appreciate the dialogue!

Dan S · Mar 17, 2026

Sirhams
Got it, that definitely makes sense. I definitely would want the durability of cap for gold at a minimum.

Yes I have seen linen dials in c-cases as well. I just prefer the dog leg lugs better. Interestingly, in Plainvanilla’s post that SOG53 posted does have that particular linen variant listed, I’ll attach it.

Thanks again for your recommendations. I look forward to growing more in this journey.

I'm just saying that I don't think that is a linen dial. So if you are searching for that dial, you may need to use a different search term, like textured.

Newbie looking for a first vintage Omega

Sirhams

Spruce

Passover

Dan S

Sirhams

Dan S

Sirhams

Sirhams

Dan S

Spruce

Sirhams

Sirhams

SOG53

Dan S

Sirhams

Sirhams

Sirhams

Peemacgee

Sirhams

Dan S

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