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Need your opinions on this 2531.80 please
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redpcar
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WatchIdiot
·I am not an expert but the dial has no yellowing of the lum, it maybe a new dial. I don't know enough to say its not real. The band has been rebrushed and not badly but not the original "texture". Not sure about the pip thou.
It looks like to me its probably been polished over all. Again its not bad for the looks dept, and I have looked at hundreds of pics in the last month.
some pics for the OP.
It looks like to me its probably been polished over all. Again its not bad for the looks dept, and I have looked at hundreds of pics in the last month.
some pics for the OP.
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10mmauto
·You say it is a 2531.80 (auto), but the card and description say it is a 2541.80 (quartz). Personally, I like the quartz in this model. That price is about right for the quartz these days. That example looks pretty clean.
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WatchIdiot
·10mm is right both links are to the quartz. The pics I posted are from the link.
Personally I would prefer and I bought a 2531.80 automatic. I don't want to have to worry about a battery. I know I can put the watch away for a year or more and just pick up and wind it. I also think watches like this should ( higher end ) be an automatic, if you want a quartz there are many other options.
Personally I would prefer and I bought a 2531.80 automatic. I don't want to have to worry about a battery. I know I can put the watch away for a year or more and just pick up and wind it. I also think watches like this should ( higher end ) be an automatic, if you want a quartz there are many other options.
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ErichPryde
·I am not an expert but the dial has no yellowing of the lum, it maybe a new dial.
I think the 2541 was produced until the 1997 changeover from Tritium to superluminova. I think. These appear to be luminova, regardless. Tagging @padders , who knows a heck of a lot about this reference
I know the successor 2221 quartz was produced after (and has red text and applied markers) and is SL only
And, I know that in some cases the tritium hands on these early Bond seamasters would age to a superluminova-like off-green (while the markers would age to yellow or pumpkin).
Replacement dials or not would not impact my decision to purchase one of these watches in the 2K range.
I agree the first one appears to have been clearly refinished. Not.. I'm not a fan. The second one probably has been polished but at a basic glance, looks better
@gramboda we are pretty big on pictures here because links very often break after sales are completed and it allows us to have a record of conversation with pictures for other people's reference. Are you on mobile or desktop?
Good choice on this reference. If you are on a budget and don't want to pay for an expensive mechanical service, quartz may be the way to go. I don't think you can go wrong either way, the first Bond Omega was a quartz after all!
That said... omega's quartz movements are not anything special to write home about (the thermo-compensated ones being something of an exception). My coaxial Seamaster keeps time as accurately--- iirc omega rated them ~0.5- ~0.7 sec/day.
You can buy a radio-controlled citizen for under 200 that will keep perfectly accurate time, and not have to worry about a "battery" replacement for at least a decade and likely longer- while the seamaster battery will last about 3 years.
If it is at all about the technology to you, something to keep in mind. If it isn't and you just want a golden eye seamaster, it's a good choice
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WatchIdiot
·And, I know that in some cases the tritium hands on these early Bond seamasters would age to a superluminova-like off-green (while the markers would age to yellow or pumpkin).
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ErichPryde
·Here is my very early 2531.80. Tritium hands are going green and the markers are yellow. I like the look of the yellowing markers.
That's honestly beautiful. Has the dial actually faded to a blue-gray or is it a trick of the light? It's very attractive.
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WatchIdiot
·That's honestly beautiful. Has the dial actually faded to a blue-gray or is it a trick of the light? It's very attractive.
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ErichPryde
·Yes it has, but the angle of light and light source make it hard to take pics of. With my phone flash its more gray, with a flash light at an angle its more blue.
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Jakeys
·I think the 2541 was produced until the 1997 changeover from Tritium to superluminova. I think. These appear to be luminova, regardless. Tagging @padders , who knows a heck of a lot about this reference
I know the successor 2221 quartz was produced after (and has red text and applied markers) and is SL only
And, I know that in some cases the tritium hands on these early Bond seamasters would age to a superluminova-like off-green (while the markers would age to yellow or pumpkin).
All correct. Additionally OP's linked watch has the globe engraving on the caseback, which dates it 2003 or newer I believe.
Frankly, I am not sure if I want an auto or quartz.
What's your favourite Brosnan era Bond movie? If it's GoldenEye, pick the 2541.80. If it isn't, pick the 2531.80. 😜
But seriously, you can't go wrong with either. It's purely personal preference. I personally prefer other automatics more, but the GoldenEye is my favourite quartz ever so it's the best option as part of a wider collection. If you only plan to own one nice watch, then I'd probably go the automatic.
That's honestly beautiful. Has the dial actually faded to a blue-gray or is it a trick of the light? It's very attractive.
I think they all look like that, mine certainly does and to my knowledge it hasn't faded. It's very light dependent, the raised waves are darker and glossy, while the lower flat dial portions are a more greyish blue and are matte finish. So you get a lot of different effects depending on the light and the angle. It's a brilliant dial.
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padders
··Oooo subtitles!I think the 2541 was produced until the 1997 changeover from Tritium to superluminova. I think. These appear to be luminova, regardless. Tagging @padders , who knows a heck of a lot about this reference
I know the successor 2221 quartz was produced after (and has red text and applied markers) and is SL only
And, I know that in some cases the tritium hands on these early Bond seamasters would age to a superluminova-like off-green (while the markers would age to yellow or pumpkin).
Replacement dials or not would not impact my decision to purchase one of these watches in the 2K range.
I agree the first one appears to have been clearly refinished. Not.. I'm not a fan. The second one probably has been polished but at a basic glance, looks better
@gramboda we are pretty big on pictures here because links very often break after sales are completed and it allows us to have a record of conversation with pictures for other people's reference. Are you on mobile or desktop?
Good choice on this reference. If you are on a budget and don't want to pay for an expensive mechanical service, quartz may be the way to go. I don't think you can go wrong either way, the first Bond Omega was a quartz after all!
That said... omega's quartz movements are not anything special to write home about (the thermo-compensated ones being something of an exception). My coaxial Seamaster keeps time as accurately--- iirc omega rated them ~0.5- ~0.7 sec/day.
You can buy a radio-controlled citizen for under 200 that will keep perfectly accurate time, and not have to worry about a "battery" replacement for at least a decade and likely longer- while the seamaster battery will last about 3 years.
If it is at all about the technology to you, something to keep in mind. If it isn't and you just want a golden eye seamaster, it's a good choice
You flatter me but I see I'm a bit late to the party. Both watches linked above look straight and honest for SL lume 1998-2006 2541s to my eye. They were made as long as the autos in this generation. Longer in fact since they were first to the market. The price is not give away but probably OK but when buying from Japan etc always factor in possible import duty. That is certainly a problem in the UK and may be many places elsewhere in the world too. The main thing to look for with a Bond SMP after ascertaining that the head is Ok is the state of the bracelet. A well worn SMP will have a knackered stretched bracelet and not a lot can be done to improve them once in a bad way. Pins and collars can be replaced but once the link holes have worn even that isn't a perfect fix.
I've had quartz Omegas inc SMPs and they have great grab and go utility. The batteries can last as long as 7 years so I wouldn't worry too much about that factor. Unlike the X33 where you are lucky to get 3 years. About the same in fact as the interval between servicing an Auto so no great problem.
As you say, the 1538 is a very efficient and well made workhorse movement which is tolerably accurate and stays so even after many years and with an older battery. That said I generally get bored of them and move them on whereas the mechanicals despite their extra effort and more expensive upkeep find a longer term place in my collection.
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DenisChalandier
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For the price, you can find way way better.
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502 to right
·First, I think you need to decide whether you want the quartz version (2541.80) or the automatic version (2531.80). There's no shame in wanting the quartz version. Both are very respectable watches and both have their advantages and disadvantages.
Second, I would decide if you want a tritium version of the watch (1997 and before). Omega SMP tritium turns yellow. Some like this and some don't. Tritium of this era no longer glows in the dark so that is something to keep in mind. Also, when servicing a tritium model Omega will often replace the hands with hands that have SuperLuminova. They can't use tritium any longer. Watches of this configuration will have yellow lume on the dial and white lume on the hands. It's not a good look in my opinion.
Third, with respect to price if you review Chonro24 and ebay and especially "sold" models on ebay you can get a good idea of the current fair market value for a watch like the SMP. You can also use Watchrecon to see what people are asking on sites like Reddit, Watchuseek, The Omega forum and The Rolex Forum.
Fourth, for watches of this vintage you are going to find two types of conditions: polished and unpolished. Unpolished examples will look pretty beat up given that they are something like 25 years old. Polished examples can range from beautiful to hideous. Personally, I think most SMP's look decent when polished as they don't have small details that have to be respected while refinishing like the lug chamfers on an older Rolex Submariner or GMT. With those types of watches it's very easy to overpolish. The SMP's have more room for error in refinishing without ruining the look. You can decide which you prefer.
Fifth, don't buy an example you have questions about just because it fits your budget. You will regret it. Spend the extra money to get one you are completely happy with.
The example you linked to is OK. It clearly has been polished and the satin brushing grain is bit more coarse than the OEM finish. Not terrible, but not the same. Closer Ltd. sells a ton of watches and this is the finish they use. I don't know why, since the remedy is so easy to employ (use finer finishing wheels). Only you can decide if the finish is acceptable to you. Again, I don't think it's terrible.
Second, I would decide if you want a tritium version of the watch (1997 and before). Omega SMP tritium turns yellow. Some like this and some don't. Tritium of this era no longer glows in the dark so that is something to keep in mind. Also, when servicing a tritium model Omega will often replace the hands with hands that have SuperLuminova. They can't use tritium any longer. Watches of this configuration will have yellow lume on the dial and white lume on the hands. It's not a good look in my opinion.
Third, with respect to price if you review Chonro24 and ebay and especially "sold" models on ebay you can get a good idea of the current fair market value for a watch like the SMP. You can also use Watchrecon to see what people are asking on sites like Reddit, Watchuseek, The Omega forum and The Rolex Forum.
Fourth, for watches of this vintage you are going to find two types of conditions: polished and unpolished. Unpolished examples will look pretty beat up given that they are something like 25 years old. Polished examples can range from beautiful to hideous. Personally, I think most SMP's look decent when polished as they don't have small details that have to be respected while refinishing like the lug chamfers on an older Rolex Submariner or GMT. With those types of watches it's very easy to overpolish. The SMP's have more room for error in refinishing without ruining the look. You can decide which you prefer.
Fifth, don't buy an example you have questions about just because it fits your budget. You will regret it. Spend the extra money to get one you are completely happy with.
The example you linked to is OK. It clearly has been polished and the satin brushing grain is bit more coarse than the OEM finish. Not terrible, but not the same. Closer Ltd. sells a ton of watches and this is the finish they use. I don't know why, since the remedy is so easy to employ (use finer finishing wheels). Only you can decide if the finish is acceptable to you. Again, I don't think it's terrible.
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Mute
·A decent quality 2531.80 complete with everything and hopefully in good operational and physical condition should be in the $2k range give or take a few hundered here and there. I just recently sold my 19 year old, well used but not abused 2531.80 (after an Omega service in 2022) for $2.1k.
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DenisChalandier
·Also, when servicing a tritium model Omega will often replace the hands with hands that have SuperLuminova. They can't use tritium any longer. Watches of this configuration will have yellow lume on the dial and white lume on the hands. It's not a good look in my opinion.
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padders
··Oooo subtitles!I've seen you post this before Denis. You suggest that getting new tritium replacement hands is a walk in the park. In actual fact it is pretty tricky for the man in the street, virtually impossible in fact. You certainly wont get Omega to fit Tritium parts at present, an independent will have to have a supply put by and I certainly don't know of any who do in the UK at least. At best you might get one to fit second hand parts. If you are claiming you got Omega to fit tritium in the past 2 decades then I would simply comment that I have never seen a single other person claim the same so your experience is err unusual to say the least.
The watch you show above looks completely atypical for a tritium lume SMP to my eye. In every other case I have seen the dial lume goes pumpkin colour and the hands go pale green. And yes OSC will routinely swap the hands at every service for SL leading to an even bigger mismatch. Have you tried a UV test?
The watch you show above looks completely atypical for a tritium lume SMP to my eye. In every other case I have seen the dial lume goes pumpkin colour and the hands go pale green. And yes OSC will routinely swap the hands at every service for SL leading to an even bigger mismatch. Have you tried a UV test?
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DenisChalandier
·No need for UV, just Hour and Minutes glows. And the faded yellow tip shows the second hand is very old. I can put you a photo in the dark if you want.
But has I said earlier, it's way easier with an horologist in the house of the Omega's retailer. If your watch goes to Omega switzerland. Have fun discussing...
Yes she is atypical because it's a very early one. Of course, the horologist thought at first that the no logo valve was not original and that the 60 clicks bezel wasn't too. By discussing and showing examples, they didn't change the bezel, so i keep the 60 clicks and Tri Pip. And he was kind enough to get me an older valve with no logo and the right second hand. Or I could have a brand new red tip not respectful of it's age.
The yellowish tone of the hands was a surprise. I don't know how he did it but I didn't complain 😀
I'm not saying it's that easy but if ones don't explain it's case, every old 300m will be like these japanese ones in 10 years. If WatchIdiot send his 1995 2531 just saying "service it", you won't have a good results...
On post 1997 ones, I don't understand why bother with polished ones, shiny ones or else. Shape doesn't really matters. Buy low price then go Omega still we can. I have 6 300m and an other yet to come back. I have also some 100 year old Omega's, of course I don't apply the same rule.
But has I said earlier, it's way easier with an horologist in the house of the Omega's retailer. If your watch goes to Omega switzerland. Have fun discussing...
Yes she is atypical because it's a very early one. Of course, the horologist thought at first that the no logo valve was not original and that the 60 clicks bezel wasn't too. By discussing and showing examples, they didn't change the bezel, so i keep the 60 clicks and Tri Pip. And he was kind enough to get me an older valve with no logo and the right second hand. Or I could have a brand new red tip not respectful of it's age.
The yellowish tone of the hands was a surprise. I don't know how he did it but I didn't complain 😀
I'm not saying it's that easy but if ones don't explain it's case, every old 300m will be like these japanese ones in 10 years. If WatchIdiot send his 1995 2531 just saying "service it", you won't have a good results...
On post 1997 ones, I don't understand why bother with polished ones, shiny ones or else. Shape doesn't really matters. Buy low price then go Omega still we can. I have 6 300m and an other yet to come back. I have also some 100 year old Omega's, of course I don't apply the same rule.
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