Forums Latest Members

My second 12.68z Longines "Ahrens"

  1. LRX_12 May 12, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    Hey there again!

    Since my other Longines piece (see https://omegaforums.net/threads/longines-12-68z-1935-calatrava.130393/) was missing "2-4-8-10" markers, I felt compelled to compliment it with another piece. I then found a watch that matches this criteria!

    More seriously, I had little to no interest into Longines before acquiring my first 12.68z as their modern offering do not appeal to me (mainly post quartz ones). Moreover i was not aware Longines manufactured such quality pieces at one point in history (I think 1930-1940 was their "golden era", correct me if I am wrong). I was also so impressed by their archives department, the extract being sent for free few day after the request, that i gained interest in these pieces.

    So here is my second Longines with a 12.68z movement. It has a diameter of ca. 31mm and lug width of ca 16mm (surprising as my other one is a tad bigger in diameter but has 15mm lugs). The strap I ordered still nicely fits though (thanks again @Syrte ) The case is of course in "staybrite" steel. The serial is 5'43x'xxx, meaning is is younger than my first one (by a year I suppose). The hands are beautiful blued leaf shaped. The movement is very nicely finished (not sure what this finish is named). Interestingly, it is co-branded "AHRENS". According to my searches it was a Swiss jewellery based in Lucern. I will need to change the acrylic crystal since the current one is cracked on the bottom right and a bit yellowed. Anyways, here are some pictures of it:

    20210512_150512.jpg
    20210512_145503~2.jpg

    Next to it's older sister:
    20210512_160335.jpg

    Mandatory "sunshine" shot:
    original_e606068b-5d47-4919-ae22-856f7144fd83_20210512_170741.jpg


    I already asked Longines for an extract from the archives so that should be quick to know more about this piece.

    Hope you enjoyed it ;)
     
    Warthog, Fallout Boy, Zapatta and 8 others like this.
  2. DirtyDozen12 Thanks, mystery donor! May 12, 2021

    Posts
    1,766
    Likes
    2,810
    Another fantastic Longines. That is a lovely dial with a relatively uncommon sub-dial design. The case is nice too, with a concave bezel and correct crown. The movement looks to be in good condition, with screw heads that have not been marred. The finish is rhodium-plated with Côtes de Genève. This is not the first "Ahrens" Longines dial I have seen, but maybe the second. Maybe it was invoiced to Wirth (Switzerland) in 1938.
     
    Warthog and LRX_12 like this.
  3. LRX_12 May 12, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    So, Longines archives department outperformed themselves again as it took them exactly 12 (yes twelve) minutes between the confirmation of my request to their answer.

    Stainless steel watch powered by a 12.68z caliber. Reference 3494, invoiced on the 28.08.1937 to Wirth in Switzerland.

    @DirtyDozen12 you were again right in all aspects (minus the year, but close enough !). I indeed did not see many Longines 12.68z with such sub dial design.

    Do you maybe have a link or picture of that other "Ahrens" Longines ? I had a hard time finding other Ahrens branded watches (only few pocket watches).
     
    Tony C. likes this.
  4. Tony C. Ωf Jury member May 12, 2021

    Posts
    5,354
    Likes
    15,195
  5. DirtyDozen12 Thanks, mystery donor! May 12, 2021

    Posts
    1,766
    Likes
    2,810
    BlueHands, Syrte, valjoux72 and 3 others like this.
  6. LRX_12 May 12, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    That one is stunning!

    @Tony C. Thanks, a lot of pocket watches, but what seems to be quite high quality ones (plus the vacheron ones)
     
  7. Lurk41 May 12, 2021

    Posts
    392
    Likes
    334
    So... there is still 1-5-(6)-7-11 missing? Which one you'll buy next? :D

    Longines was above Omega at that time and the 13ZN and 30CH are still considered ones of the finest chronographs ever made.

    They were pretty badly hit by the quartz crisis, now they are only producing good entry-level luxury watches. They are basically the Alfa Romeo of the watches ;)
     
  8. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept May 12, 2021

    Posts
    6,055
    Likes
    16,446
    You beat me to it!....( I wonder where it is now.)
    Congrats @LRX_12... and I should claim « dibs » :p
     
  9. LRX_12 May 13, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    Exactly! Yet, I suppose it will be somewhat harder to find a watch that matches this criteria… If you have any suggestion please share it ;)

    I had a look at the 13ZN and 30CH chronographs. The movements are simply gorgeous! Their prices are interesting though…
     
  10. Modest_Proposal Trying too hard to be one of the cool kids May 17, 2021

    Posts
    2,531
    Likes
    4,804
    As mentioned - a rare treat to see. And identical dial design to an Eterna I have.
     
    Screen Shot 2021-05-17 at 10.40.04 AM.png
    LRX_12, Syrte and Tony C. like this.
  11. LRX_12 May 18, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    great @Modest_Proposal , very clean dial ;)

    On a side note, what do the technical experts around would think would be a good fit as a new crystal? I was looking at the "Sternkreuz N" (domed low/lentille) at 26.4-26.6 mm. Will such an acrylic crystal look correct on my 1930s piece?
     
  12. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept May 18, 2021

    Posts
    6,055
    Likes
    16,446
    You’re in Belgium aren’t you?
    Just get it to a good watchmaker and they’ll find something that looks nice for 25 euros.
    PS - I’m not familiar with this crystal you’re referring to but just about all of those 1930s watches have acrylic crystals.
    that being said my watchmaker once fitted a mineral crystal to some of my watches because their low profile looked so good on the watch, and crystals are replaceable material anyhow. I think it’s a matter of function and aesthetic.
     
    Edited May 18, 2021
  13. LRX_12 May 29, 2021

    Posts
    53
    Likes
    129
    Back from the watchmaker with a brand new crystal (acrylic). Much needed "update" as the dial now looks ten times cleaner.
    20210529_172402.jpg

    Timekeeping-wise it is working amazingly good: watchmaker measurements were +8s/d, 0.4 ms BE and 295 amplitude
     
    cineaste, Modest_Proposal and Syrte like this.