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Longines 12.68z 1935 "calatrava"

  1. LRX_12 Apr 15, 2021

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    Hey there,

    My first post here in the Longines forum! I wanted to present you my only Longines.

    Another so-called "Calatrava" Longines :). Of course it is not a Calatrava but for now I do not have the reference of my piece. The serial number indicates that it was produced in 1935 (5'345'xxx). The movement and caseback serials exactly match. It is powered by a manual wound 12.68z caliber which seems to be the earliest version since it has the nice single "internal" case screw. The case is 32-32.5mm in "staybrite" stainless steel. The crown is unsigned and the hands are very nicely blued, I love them.

    At first I did not find any piece that looked like mine (the majority have a dial with an "horizontal" 9) on the internet. However, @Syrte has what it seems to be the exact same reference as mine! I found it in this post:

    https://omegaforums.net/threads/recent-acquisition-a-steel-longines-calatrava.16026/#post-1447010

    Do you have more information to share regarding your very nice watch @Syrte ?

    On my side I asked Longines for an extract of the archives so I will be able to know more about my watch. By the way I find it amazing that Longines is providing this service for free when other manufactures like to add a quite substantial fee for the same service.

    I need to find a nice 15mm strap now as the one currently fitted is quite used and too large!

    Here are some pictures of my watch, hope you like it ;) Thanks for reading and if you have any information to share about this reference please do it!

    20210414_123921.jpg 20210414_124040.jpg 20210414_124014.jpg 20210415_174353.jpg
     
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  2. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Apr 15, 2021

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    Welcome and congrats on your nice watch. If you hang around you’ll see we don’t call those “calatravas” here and many are irked by the hyped-up marketing lingo.

    I’ll have to look up my own records, but at first blush a serial number 53xxxx seems more like it was sold in 1937.
    You should send pictures to Longines to get an extract of archive within a few days, it’s fast and free.

    Personally I don’t really care what reference a watch is, Ionly care that it looks good and is original-- and this appears to be both :thumbsup:

    Best regards,
    S
     
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  3. LRX_12 Apr 15, 2021

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    Thanks Syrte. Yes I indeed know Calatrava is widely uncorrectely used to hype watches (hence my ironical « so-called » reference which I probably should have used more subtly ;)).

    I actually already contacted Longines with pictures. I found a serial number table indicating that 1935 started with 5´333´000 to 5´416´000. This table is maybe not as precise as your records ! Did you request an extract for your piece I linked above as well?

    And thanks for confirming that everything looks original! Should the crown be unsigned? I guess that might be the case considering the period it was produced.

    And yes it does look good :)

    best
     
  4. DirtyDozen12 Thanks, mystery donor! Apr 15, 2021

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    Very nice watch. It is neat to see another example that is just like @Syrte's. I would actually guess that the watch was invoiced in 1936. Your unsigned crown is correct. Here is a little 10.68Z (serial 5'324'xxx) I have that was invoiced to Ostersetzer (Italy) in June of 1936.

    front.jpeg
     
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  5. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Apr 15, 2021

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    Indeed the crown should be unsigned.
    I somehow cannot find an extract for my watch, I may have lost it, but I have a completely different watch with serial number 5344xxx, and it was sold in July 1936. I might have to seek another extract for my watch that’s similar to yours.

    PS - you also need a correctly sized 15mm fixed lug strap ;)
     
  6. wagudc Apr 15, 2021

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    Call it what you will, it is a little gem of a watch to me.
     
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  7. LRX_12 Apr 15, 2021

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    @DirtyDozen12 very interesting case shape, I love the sharp angles. The dial is very similar to mine, quite a "reduced" version!

    @Syrte yes, quite hard to find 15mm fixed lugs strap though. I will keep my eyes open... I suspect my watch was issued in 1936 as well. Will have more info later !

    @wagudc thanks, even though 32mm is small considering actual standards, I like its look !
     
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  8. berrychlossom Apr 15, 2021

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    @LRX_12 So far I've seen three of your watches and they're all amazing. Very tasteful collection
     
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  9. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Apr 15, 2021

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    If you’re interested I know an Italian craftsman who can make one at very reasonable prices and with a wide choice of leathers and colors. Those are all straps he made for me (including the green one I have on this watch).
     
    508C23F0-130B-408C-B0D8-9690F7DA437C.jpeg 044E45B3-50B9-4B79-949D-B45AE86A621C.jpeg 6968367E-C79C-4B11-AAA5-E7EB39645B13.jpeg 366F6E80-681A-48BB-882F-387FC344888A.jpeg BBDB5BA6-C547-4837-A584-62BF6A5E4D42.jpeg A09A3256-7D68-4530-A486-73A3AA12871D.jpeg 1A055809-DC05-4406-B176-EC8E9F0A24BD.jpeg
  10. bubba48 Apr 15, 2021

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    Nice Ref. 755

    longines svezia (100).jpg

    longines svezia (4).JPG
     
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  11. DirtyDozen12 Thanks, mystery donor! Apr 15, 2021

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    Mine is actually a ref. 3541. I suppose that your watch has a cal. 12.68Z?
     
  12. LRX_12 Apr 16, 2021

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    So, extract already extracted !! Amazed by Longines job. Even more amazed that they will send me a paper copy for free.

    Stainless steel watch powered by a 12.68z caliber. Sold in May 1936 to Ostersetzer in Italy.

    @Syrte and @DirtyDozen12 you were absolutely correct!
     
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  13. LRX_12 Apr 16, 2021

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    Thanks for the compliment ! Funny because I did not consider myself as a collector at all but considering the watches I acquired I think I might soon qualify as such. Yet, I do not have any "strategy" and acquire watches that look good to my eyes ! I find that there is something very special to wear watches that were manufactured almost one century ago. When I look at the craftmanship of these 30s/40s watches I am simply speechless.
     
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  14. Hijak Apr 16, 2021

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    @Syrte , some very nice watches there!:thumbsup: Seriously nice straps too.
     
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  15. LRX_12 Apr 16, 2021

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    Thanks for he info, these straps are indeed very nice. Your watches are very nice as well.

    I unexpectedly found a difference between our two watches. Indeed, on yours, the outer "railway track" has thicker railway crossings at each hour marker. Mine only has these thicker crossings at 3-6-9-12 hour markers. See below comparison. Interesting that even though I found almost the perfect similar watch it actually isn't!

    Longines1268.png
     
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  16. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Apr 16, 2021

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    Thank you gentlemen, my watch is somewhat more patinated than the OP but I like those dial patterns.
    Interesting to see the slight dial variation but I’m not surprised.
     
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  17. LRX_12 Apr 17, 2021

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    So I contacted @Syrte strapmaker (thanks!)

    What do you guys think would be a good match color-wise for a new strap? I was thinking about a blue strap (similar to the one Longines propose on their « heritage classic 1930 »). I think it can highlight the blued hands! Something like this:
    [​IMG]
     
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  18. Syrte MWR Tech Support Dept Apr 17, 2021

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    Navy blue really looks nice with blued hands— but I find the Longines Heritage strap the wrong style for their elegant watch, as it’s a casual strap with the side stitch.

    So navy blue yes but not distressed, and no white stitches making the strap too busy, especially on a 15mm width. Here’s an example below of a proper color and style match IMHO (18mm - that was before I discovered the craftsman I mentioned).

    You could also pick tan pigskin which was a style widely used for watches in those days.
     
    3A7E07F0-7AEF-4360-B1AC-354CCB5EA737.jpeg
    Edited Apr 17, 2021
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  19. LRX_12 Apr 17, 2021

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    Yep, very nice strap @Syrte, exactly the color and style I was imagining on my watch (minus the rivets) ! Tanks for the suggestion.

    I agree that the Longines Heritage strap is not period correct, more particularly the white side stitch.

    I think a navy blue strap will look great on my watch !
     
    Edited Apr 17, 2021
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  20. LRX_12 Apr 23, 2021

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    I just received the paper version of the Extract of the archives. Longines is just above the rest on that archive part!

    In the meantime I ordered a strap from @Syrte strapmaker of choice. A truly nice gentleman and the incoming strap looks very promising. Will keep you updated when I get it ;)

    20210423_193610.jpg
     
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