My Early Seamaster 120 Divers. What to look for and what to avoid.

Posts
4,949
Likes
18,345
Also there are some different coloured variants in burgundy, green and blue
Yes. That's true. There are different variants of the bezel. But I'm done with the 120. And yes, I'm letting the last one go. Maybe also the first 166.027.
 
Posts
4,949
Likes
18,345
Yes. That's true. There are different variants of the bezel. But I'm done with the 120. And yes, I'm letting the last one go. Maybe also the first 166.027.
But now I'm going into the minefield of the constellation... terr
 
Posts
4,949
Likes
18,345
But now I'm going into the minefield of the constellation... terr
By the way, I would like to thank Gemini4 for the info. It was essential for me before buying my 120's. I forgot to say this yesterday. Again, great help!!
 
Posts
324
Likes
637

In the 1960's, with the success of the of the Seamaster 300, 3rd generation divers, the 165.024 and 166.024, Omega began their series of "baby" divers, the SM120s. Cheaper, Smaller and lighter, 37mm as opposed to the 41mm SM300, the SM120s were initially produced in 4 references. Unlike the SM300 which were only automatic, manual movements were offered as well. 31mm ladies sizes too, (I don't have any of these but be careful as some sellers neglect to mention they are selling the tiny size!!)


THE FOUR REFERENCES:
135.027 Manual Movement, No Date, Caliber 601, 611
136.027 Manual Movement, with Date, Caliber 613
165.027 Auto Movement, No Date, Caliber 552
166.027 Auto Movement, with Date, Cailber 565

Below are pics of my SM120's. Most I think are fairly nice EXCEPT THE LAST EXAMPLE WHICH IS A BOGUS KNOCKOFF AND SHOULD BE AVOIDED!

I hope this is informative and corrections and comments are always welcome.

Ref 135.027
All 4 references appear to share the same case, 5.5mm crown, hands and matte bezel. The caseback Seahorse engraving appears to be the same on all 4 references as well.


Casebacks on the 135.027 and 136.027 are flat. Seahorse is lightly engraved as shown.


All original legitimate cases have notches at the 3 and the 9. This notch may be missing on bogus examples.


136.027



165.027 For me, the hardest of the 4 to source. Dial now includes "Automatic". Note the TT location on the dial is slightly different from the 135s


Caseback is now domed to make room for the movement rotor.


166.027s



THIS IS THE BOGUS 166.027!! It's plentiful, it's cheap. This was the first SM120 I bought. My mistake cost $500 before I realized there was a difference. Other than a Caliber 565 movement taken from another Omega, it's all bad
馃檨

Glossy bezel, wrong 4, different bezel font. Hands too short, Dial fonts and layout (Automatic is compressed). Black date on white background from the borrowed movement.


Caseback seamonster is incorrect. Engraving is too deep. Crown too small.



No case notch at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock.

Avoid confusion with another Seamaster 120 diver - ref.166.073 Cal.565 (I am joking !)

 
Posts
1,058
Likes
1,630
looks like RESTORED alright ... but i do not see by WHOM ... was it restored by the owner or watch smith ... or was it restored by OMEGA ?

it's a brand new fake and the faker signed the case back, good sense of humor
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
my 120 as she looked a week before being sent to Omega Dec. 6th 2017 ..... tentative return from Omega Feb. 15th 2018 ....
as the song says ... " THE WAITING iS THE HARDEST PART " .... also managed to secure proper 19mm end link for my vintage Omega BOR bracelet ... parts # 026 ST 517 ...
 
Posts
1,058
Likes
1,630
also managed to secure proper 19mm end link for my vintage Omega BOR bracelet ... parts # 026 ST 517 ...

Do you have a proof that 1036 bracelet was fitted to that watch?

I know that 1067/532 was the first, and then 1069/524, 1098/547 and 1172/570 but never heard about any BOR 1036/517
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
Do you have a proof that 1036 bracelet was fitted to that watch?

I know that 1067/532 was the first, and then 1069/524, 1098/547 and 1172/570 but never heard about any BOR 1036/517
the end link is 026 ST 571 [19mm] designed to fit the 19mm lugs for Seamsters and Connie ... @ the time according to Omega ... so I really do not know ... this is Omega itself who shared this with me.... as I requested I would like to have 19mm end links fitted to my 18mm BOR
 
Posts
1,058
Likes
1,630
right, to usual Seamasters and connies, not for divers
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
right, to usual Seamasters and connies, not for divers

I might be wrong ... but according to Omega Seamsters are all considered DIVERS watches
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
PROOF ??/? ... .... all BOR bracelets were offered as AFTER MARKET UPGRADE to all omega watches at the time ... it was a means for the OMEGA store to UPSALE .... where a customer bought their watch ... so a BOR would be and can be fitted as per customers request
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
as in the case of the 120 'SKIN DIVER " town, country and sea model ... it came mounted on a leather band ... and the customer was given the option to upgrade the watch band at the store ....
 
Posts
1,058
Likes
1,630
Divers have a little more than 30m WR and a rotating bezel.
Your watch is the first "diver" I see "upgraded" with a BOR, that's why I was asking.
I've got the answer, thanks, that watch was not originally sold on that bracelet.
 
Posts
2,854
Likes
15,377
BOR bracelets are after market option offered by Omega dealers at the time ... the OMEGA 120 " SKIN DIVER " was sold with a leather strap standard
 
Posts
4,949
Likes
18,345
BOR bracelets are after market option offered by Omega dealers at the time ... the OMEGA 120 " SKIN DIVER " was sold with a leather strap standard
Corfam strap...