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  1. Ponthelion Dec 29, 2020

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  2. Ponthelion Dec 29, 2020

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    Thought I'd also share a recent experience I had.

    Came across one of these from a Japanese dealer and had a short discussion with a well respected collector of 90/95s. These unsigned dials were probably made for retailers like Tiffany and Co but were left unused, and is possible it was placed on a steel case lying around.

    This was concluded based on the the fact that dials with gold numerals or indexes usually belong to gold cases..if you have seen other dials which are not the case feel free to share them here.

    Was a pass for me in the end..
     
    10271839_5f97eacf7c270.jpg Screenshot_20201229-151909_Instagram.jpg
    Edited Dec 29, 2020
    Maybe, Dial & Bezel, shishy and 2 others like this.
  3. Ted1858 Dec 29, 2020

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  4. Flatfoot Dec 29, 2020

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    Ive not studied this reference particularly well. However, I note the non-concentricity and unusual tracks of the subdial register printing within all 3 coves, a missing Kris hand on the minutes subdial, and apparently missing serifs on the Movado print font . It’s enough to make me investigate a lot further if I were looking for one.
     
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  5. Flatfoot Dec 29, 2020

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    Yes, The gold cased M90 with the engraving and apparent provenance is really tasty. The dial is very appealing, and the tachymeter scale in miles ( instead of Km) would fit nicely with the US aviation background of Arlene Davis. I’m curious to see where that watch lands price wise.

    The 30mm case size is on the ragged edge of being too small for my taste, but I’d still love to have it.

    What premium component -for the provenance alone- would one expect to see for this watch?

    Arlene Davis flew a Spartan Executive in the 1939 transcontinental Bendix race, from Los Angeles to New York, placing 5th. Picture from the web:
    A4A1DCAE-0720-4539-B960-833C1A3AE212.jpeg
     
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  6. Ted1858 Dec 29, 2020

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    Likewise. It doesn’t look like any panda example I’ve ever seen from the past few years, but I am not an expert so I didn’t want to declare it as incorrect.

    It's weird, I can actually see some of the concentric rings on the outer parts of the subdials but it doesn't cover the entire surface, seems manipulated. And not only are the scales on the registers unlike any ones I've seen (left should be 10-60, right should be 10-0), the font is off too - the 3s on the subdials are not rounded on the ones I've seen. And the numerals are typically vertically-oriented, not rotated. Lastly, the "T SWISS T" or "T SWITZERLAND T" is usually visible in a straight-on photo, but not here.
     
  7. Ponthelion Dec 29, 2020

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    I think you meant 32mm instead of 30mm so maybe it isn't that bad on the wrist :)

    I'd like to think it will end at at least 18-20k euros. Although there are similar pieces out there with more desired specs asking for less (33mm fb stainless steel case breguet m95) with little to no provenance..I don't think these kind of dial configs come by very often.
     
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  8. Flatfoot Dec 29, 2020

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    Yes, I misread the diameter as being 30mm. 32mm is firmly in the sweet spot for early chronographs for me.

    The Breguet numbers add to the desirability- I’m looking forward to see the result.
     
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  9. bazamu wincer, not a bidder Dec 29, 2020

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    No, it is a re-dial
     
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  10. Rumar89 Jan 17, 2021

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    I realize if I’m having to ask, I probably know the answer, but how many of you think this dial damage is a deal breaker?

    AA12C491-C7F7-48F5-9B9B-6095F2883BA9.jpeg 7C6E8766-4CEA-4832-9491-52133E087FA0.jpeg EF07FADE-661B-40FD-97E5-44D2DE6B540D.jpeg
     
  11. Flatfoot Jan 17, 2021

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    That dial is a hard “no” from my view.
    Case is fair at very best, with an apparent bad scar on Lower R lug. Value as parts-if you need them- would be my assessment.
     
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  12. Ted1858 Jan 17, 2021

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    Yeah I would never wear that, because I’d be fixated on the flaws.
     
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  13. Mark020 not the sharpest pencil in the ΩF drawer Jan 18, 2021

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    It all depends on the price I think. For EUR 250 I could live with it :)
     
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  14. Ted1858 Jan 22, 2021

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    Any idea how difficult it would be to find a dial for an earlier m95 gold FB case (49038)? My assumption is that it’s a long shot.
     
  15. Flatfoot Jan 23, 2021

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    Good question on how difficult finding a nice dial may be for your 49038. I believe it would be a long shot as well. But perhaps someone here at OF has some Movado stuff stashed away?

    Separately, The pulsation dial of the OP’s subject watch with Breguet numbers - if it were in better condition- would be a gem. But it’s not. The “three C’s” - condition, condition, condition- hold me back.
     
  16. t_swiss_t Feb 19, 2021

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    Added this 19004 M90 to the collection earlier in the week. My first non-traditional-case shape watch. Waiting on a strap for it as these have 17 mm fixed and curved strap bars (hard to say spring bars or fixed lugs when there are neither springs nor lugs...).

    6593BCE5-6970-413D-89C3-9B2106B983F5.JPG

    IMG_7042.jpg

    Per the discussion earlier in the thread, these disco volantes (-04 case number) are also not FB/Taubert cased. Same goes for the triple-step bezel cases (-05), the cases with vertically stepped lugs (-23, -33, and -43; like the one that Arthur/Shuck the Oyster sold a few months ago), and the skinnier lug ones like @Ponthelion posted above (-26 and -36); these case styles are only some of the snap back case styles that housed the M90/95. The FB cases were the only screw back variants, I have not seen that any of the snap backs were FB/Taubert signed. The dials in FB/screw back cases tend to have aged better because of their better water resistance, though there are obvious exceptions to that general trend.

    The hunt for more pulsations M90/95s continues. My goal is to have one in each of my favorite four case styles: -08 (565 case), -04 (disco), -48 (faceted lug), and -28 (triple-step). Two down, two to go!
     
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  17. Ted1858 Feb 19, 2021

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    Super-cool example and case style, and a fantastic dial as well!

    I enjoy learning about the case variations that you’ve observed. Would you be able to post a picture of the different styles that you mentioned in your post? Is the “-XX” you’re noting the same nomenclature as the 38 and 58, etc from Rich’s article on Rescapement?

    If I’m understanding your post correctly, there are pulsations dials for all styles except the FB cases, is that right?
     
  18. t_swiss_t Feb 19, 2021

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    Yes, I’m using the same notation as from the Rescapement article. Rich and I recently expanded the dataset that he started (of the FB M95s) to include all M90/95 variations. We’re still analyzing the data together, but I’ve outlined all the main case styles in an article that will come out soon on SJX. I’ll post a link to the article when it’s published.

    I didn’t mean that there are no pulsations dials in FB cases. The 19048 pulsations M90 I have (earlier in this thread) is an FB case, and the -08 I mention are FB cases too. They’re seen on both FB and non-FB ... but pulsations scale are much more frequently seen on the M90s than 95s.
     
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  19. Mooieklokjes Feb 20, 2021

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    What a stunning piece! Do you have a picture with the strap attached to it?
     
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  20. Ted1858 Feb 20, 2021

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    Cool, can’t wait to see the article! Gotcha on the pulsations, I was getting things mixed up.
     
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