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Mattify the bracelet of Seamaster 300

A
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I was at the omega boutique today and talked about my Seamaster 300 1957 trilogy. We talking about the watch and I mentioned that I find the bracelet sometimes to shiny.
The guy in the shop suggest to mattify the bracelet completely. They did for some other customers for this watch or for example for the Moonwatch.

What do you think about it?
Should I do it? Little bit unsure about it.
 
IMG_20200229_205301.jpg IMG_20200229_205251.jpg
avidmark
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I'd recommend not to and put it on a different strap if it really bothers you. But it's your watch.
 
OMEGuy
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Since the most shiny part of the bracelet is maybe 10%, I don't understand what you are expecting and why you are considering to ruin the genuine bracelet.

I'd change the bracelet or wear the watch on a (leather) strap.
 
wsfarrell
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I think the correct polish for that bracelet is satin in the middle, bright on the outer parts of the links. Easy enough to do with a buffer and some polyimide tape, and looks great.
 
Archer
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If that's what you want, it's your watch. It's easily done...I do this for people who ask...

Before:



After:



Before and after:



It can be reversed, so if you change your mind down the road it can be polished in the right spots again.

Cheers, Al
 
A
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Archer Archer
If that's what you want, it's your watch. It's easily done...I do this for people who ask...

Before:



After:



Before and after:



It can be reversed, so if you change your mind down the road it can be polished in the right spots again.

Cheers, Al
Thanks, it's looking great. 😀
Good to know that I can go back to the original look
 
Alfista88
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Yes, definitely tips the scale more toward the toolwatch character, after brushing the sides.

On mine, I found that even after brushing, it still retained some "bling" because:

1) The sides and the center link have an exact 50% overlap. This causes the larger center links to always have a different light reflection from the smaller side links, even when both surfaces are satin brushed.

2) The watchmaker who worked on mine only brushed the outer surface, so the "pits" 😁 in between the outer links retained their high polish. When the bracelet drapes in a curvature around your wrist, there's no way to hide some of those pits from showing. So you still get small sparkles of polished accents that will shine as you rotate your wrist

Sorry I'm sure there's a better way to describe that specific surface/side of the bracelet I'm talking about in #2, but hope I was successful in communicating that point. Using white arrows in picture below to point that out.

IMG_8454.jpg IMG_8454.jpg


I ultimately sold the watch because I still found the high polish of the metal bezel ring too flashy. I've always wondered how the watch would look if that part was brushed. Maybe one day, a forum member will elect to take the aluminum ring off and brush that metal ring, and we'll be treated to pictures of what the watch looks like after that procedure.
 
A
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Alfista88 Alfista88
Yes, definitely tips the scale more toward the toolwatch character, after brushing the sides.

On mine, I found that even after brushing, it still retained some "bling" because:

1) The sides and the center link have an exact 50% overlap. This causes the larger center links to always have a different light reflection from the smaller side links, even when both surfaces are satin brushed.

2) The watchmaker who worked on mine only brushed the outer surface, so the "pits" 😁 in between the outer links retained their high polish. When the bracelet drapes in a curvature around your wrist, there's no way to hide some of those pits from showing. So you still get small sparkles of polished accents that will shine as you rotate your wrist

Sorry I'm sure there's a better way to describe that specific surface/side of the bracelet I'm talking about in #2, but hope I was successful in communicating that point. Using white arrows in picture below to point that out.

IMG_8454.jpg IMG_8454.jpg


I ultimately sold the watch because I still found the high polish of the metal bezel ring too flashy.

Thanks for the information.
What did you buy instead?
 
Alfista88
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Initially, I was looking into a 42mm titanium planet ocean (232.90.46.21.03.001), but I couldn't find one. It was a giant leap, but I ended up with a 116613LB with the proceeds from the trilogy Seamaster.

Was thinking that the PO's glossy dial + applied markers would overall still form a muted profile, compared to 60th anniversary. The polished bezel of the 60th anniversary would distract coworkers during some meetings, or would blind me while I'm driving. I don't understand Omega's design rationale, for making that circle so prominent in size, and coupling it with high polish.

I do miss some of the characteristics of the Seamaster, like the domed sapphire crystal, and Naiad crown which formed a perfect alignment of the Omega logo when fully sealed. Personally, I also find the beveling of Omega's cases across various models more pleasing to look at than Rolex's "large slab of metal" approach to their modern super cases.

For the "retro or neo-vintage tool watch" purpose that I had originally wanted out of the 60th anniversary Seamaster, my hesalite Speedy Pro is the closest watch I have left that somewhat suit those characteristics.
 
precisionhrlgy
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No, I don’t suggest that you do it. It’s very difficult to bring back to a completely original state and any other advice is not good advice in my opinion. If you look at the below picture you can see the modified clasp and the problem areas with it.

2027F3E4-0000-4E15-9668-C8657805750F.jpeg


These areas have been rounded off during the polishing process and it will be very difficult bring them back to factory standard.

We can compare it with the below photograph of a factory clasp. You will note that there is no rounding.

08F7A6FC-9E46-4CE0-A97F-A76A6699F0AA.jpeg


Once the clasp, especially around the Rolex crown, has been rounded off like this, it’s going to be very difficult, nearly impossible to reverse this and bring it back to factory specs.

i understand that the bracelet in question is an Omega bracelet , but the same principles and concerns still apply. So be very careful with which decision you make.
 
Meme-Dweller
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the rounding is unlikely to happen when an amateur uses something like a Scotch-brite pad... only those who put it on the polishing wheel too long
 
danbl68
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I would say go for it! You can bring it back, but also you have to be smart about it....if you think this will help your view of the watch and improve it then go for it. I you do it though, you should definitely make sure you stay with it
 
jethro 2.0
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New member and first post here. I’ve got my eye on an AT and just saving up the coin before pulling the trigger (hopefully fairly soon). Went to my local AD and tried it on (will likely buy there) and to me the decision is clear: I’d want to have the polished parts of the bracelet all brushed. Just so I’ve got a ballpark idea, what does this type of thing cost to have done and who should I be looking at to do this work? A watchmaker, or just any regular jeweler? Thanks in advance.
 
VetPsychWars
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jethro 2.0 jethro 2.0
New member and first post here. I’ve got my eye on an AT and just saving up the coin before pulling the trigger (hopefully fairly soon). Went to my local AD and tried it on (will likely buy there) and to me the decision is clear: I’d want to have the polished parts of the bracelet all brushed. Just so I’ve got a ballpark idea, what does this type of thing cost to have done and who should I be looking at to do this work? A watchmaker, or just any regular jeweler? Thanks in advance.

My local watchmaker, Rolex dealer, charges $150-ish for a bracelet refinish. If it's going to match, they'll have to brush the whole thing. Of course prices vary.

I suggest you live with it for a month. It might be less important to you after a while.

Of course if you still feel that way after a month, then there's no reason to not go ahead.

Tom
 
JerryB
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I had this done at an omega boutique for a seamaster 300. Not going to do it on my 57 Railmaster even though I like the Matt. As the shiny finish is period correct and figured it makes sense to keep strap original . Would buy a new bracelet over finishing the current one.
 
A
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JerryB JerryB
I had this done at an omega boutique for a seamaster 300. Not going to do it on my 57 Railmaster even though I like the Matt. As the shiny finish is period correct and figured it makes sense to keep strap original . Would buy a new bracelet over finishing the current one.

Yeah, thought about it again in last few days. I think I will keep it original, because I am unsure if I will keep the watch.
Thinking about to sell it for a Seamaster Diver 300M , so it´s better to keep it original. 👍
 
JerryB
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Get yourself a Railmaster 57 before they all go . 😀
 
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