Looking to purchase this 105.012-65

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Anybody curious about that minute hand that seems too short to reach the minute track? 🙄

I would expect something like this :

 
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^ Yep I noticed that too.. (I'm learning)... it's one of the things I actually did notice... but what does it mean? They are swapped in hands? from a Mk2.. ?
 
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Anybody curious about that minute hand that seems too short to reach the minute track? 🙄
Eugene's watch (see his photo) minute hand is short though... so I really don't know what to believe...
 
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It most certainly is not.
.Ok... sure. maybe the angles of your photo.....yep.. the picture of the 105.012 '64 and '65 in moonwatch only ibook looks short as well...so what do you think of the watch I am looking at Eugene? IS that minute hand short? Look nobody said this stuff is easy....
 
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BTW Can that big ding/hole on the inside rim of the bezel above 85 be repaired?... or is that it with the bezel?
 
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.Ok... sure. maybe the angles of your photo.....yep.. the picture of the 105.012 '64 and '65 in moonwatch only ibook looks short as well...so what do you think of the watch I am looking at Eugene? IS that minute hand short? Look nobody said this stuff is easy....

Like I said, I don't really care to think too hard about anything more with this one ... the dial/lume (case) puts me right off. I think what Kov meant was the tip ... it is supposed to come to/slightly passed the minute track. It doesn't on this one.

so, about my questions in my original post ... could you see anything about the lume I mentioned as a difference between the one I posted, and the C24 one?
 
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so, about my questions in my original post ... could you see anything about the lume I mentioned as a difference between the one I posted, and the C24 one?
Well the lume on your watch has dark black spots in it... at random areas on the lume ....that what you are referring too?...so it is more uneven in texture ...because some bits of tritium go black in time? That it?
 
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@lexieb007 reading through the last couple of threads you posted on this forum, It seems like you might be too eager to get yourself into a bad buy.
Be patient, and you will find the right example.
Keep in mind that the chances of finding a stellar 105.012-65 at a killer price like @pre-moon064 just did (especially from a store/dealer or on C24) are extremely unlikely, and you'll have to be extremely lucky...
In addition, if you are specifically after a 105.012-65, I suggest you "up" your budget by 5-7K to find a good one.
Or, go for a higher reference (145.012-67 or 145.022-69). a 10K budget will buy you a much better example (quality-wise) within those references.
Edited:
 
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This is a pass from me unless you're looking to get into a vintage speedmaster at the bottom end of the market.

Imo this is square in the middle of the 'fair' category on sp101. No aspect is 'good.

The case is over polished, the dial looks tired and the bezel is average.
 
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Ok Lume shot as requested after 20sec of torch exposure. Is this genuine tritium lume on dial and hands? Yes or no . Or is this a relume? Yes or no?
 
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Movement pics. Authentic 321? Yes/No? Tampered? Y/N? Swapped parts? Y/N?
 
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This is a pass from me unless you're looking to get into a vintage speedmaster at the bottom end of the market.

Imo this is square in the middle of the 'fair' category on sp101. No aspect is 'good.

The case is over polished, the dial looks tired and the bezel is average.
I absolutely accept this. 100%. Definitely at bottom of market. If you go back and look at my original questions, you will see what I am after is an authentic watch.

Authenticity is all I care about...

It seems even vintage speedmasters of good or exceptional quality (using the SP101 guide...and yes I am aware of this) can have swapped parts, service (non tritium hands), relumes and fake bits in the movement etc. Even spacefruit himself has some 2998's like this for sale. Right now! YEs they are superb quality, but they have unknown (for the watch or period) parts.

Nobody said this was easy. And yes...you can be lucky like that dude from LA and stumble on a gem or you can wait until your dead with covid and die waiting for an original untouched moderate or good quality genuine '65 or '66 moonwatch.

The other issue is yes... its great many OF experts were lucky they got into vintage speedmasters few years ago when all authentic 105.012-65's were like 5K but this is not the case now. I get it you need 15K..maybe even 20K to get a good or better example... but heck 20K is 20K and the price of a pretty damn good car.

I could wear this 10K '65 right now and not worry too much about knocking it about and have 10K to buy another exceptional quality 67 or 69 to keep as a safe queen and still have change... know what I'm saying?

All i'm saying is all I care about is it's a real '65 speedie. And I want to wear it. So I can show people this is a genuine untouched moon watch from when moon watches were actually worn on the moon.

I don't want to have to wait 2 weeks till I get the chance to visit the Safety deposit box and then be so damn scared to even take the watch out and wear it around for fear of damaging a precious speedie or losing a 20K watch...

20K is 20K. Partic with the USD and Euro so strong...I am sure I'm not the only newbie to speedies thinking this way

Cheers
Edited:
 
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so back to original questions

Is this an authentic '65

1/ Is the Dial original ?Y/N..
2/ Original tritium lume? Y/N
3/ Hands Original? Y/N
4/ Are the hands Tritium Y/N ? (The seller doesn't have a blue UV..so can't tell me)
5/ Clearly hands have been painted but could these hands be restored ie repainted without the lume falling out?
6 / Crown and pushers look original to me.. am I correct?
7/ Bezel looks to me to be original? Y/N
8/ Case looks ok. Original Y/N
9/ Is this an untouched, non rusty 321 movement? Y/N

Appreciate the help!
 
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I absolutely accept this. 100%. Definitely at bottom of market. If you go back and look at my original questions, you will see what I am after is an authentic watch.

Authenticity is all I care about...

It seems even vintage speedmasters of good or exceptional quality (using the SP101 guide...and yes I am aware of this) can have swapped parts, service (non tritium hands), relumes and fake bits in the movement etc. Even spacefruit himself has some 2998's like this for sale. Right now! YEs they are superb quality, but they have unknown (for the watch or period) parts.

Nobody said this was easy. And yes...you can be lucky like that dude from LA and stumble on a gem or you can wait until your dead with covid and die waiting for an original untouched moderate or good quality genuine '65 or '66 moonwatch.

The other issue is yes... its great many OF experts were lucky they got into vintage speedmasters few years ago when all authentic 105.012-65's were like 5K but this is not the case now. I get it you need 15K..maybe even 20K to get a good or better example... but heck 20K is 20K and the price of a pretty damn good car.

I could wear this 10K '65 right now and not worry too much about knocking it about and have 10K to buy another exceptional quality 67 or 69 to keep as a safe queen and still have change... know what I'm saying?

All i'm saying is all I care about is it's a real '65 speedie. And I want to wear it. So I can show people this is a genuine untouched moon watch from when moon watches were actually worn on the moon.

I don't want to have to wait 2 weeks till I get the chance to visit the Safety deposit box and then be so damn scared to even take the watch out and wear it around for fear of damaging a precious speedie or losing a 20K watch...

20K is 20K. Partic with the USD and Euro so strong...I am sure I'm not the only newbie to speedies thinking this way

Cheers

This is all your decision and you don't need to be defensive or argue. Just ask your questions, get your answers, say "thank you", and make up your own mind. Personally, I think this would be an ok watch to buy as a "wearer" at about $8k. Above that it wouldn't appeal to me. Not looking to argue, just giving my own subjective opinion.
 
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^ Sure.
(As it turns out 8K is the offer I have in for the watch.. the guy hasn't accepted it yet...He wants 10K)

I'm not arguing or getting defensive
(If it appears that way, I am sorry...)

But nobody has actually answered my original questions....
(I'd appreciate if someone did)

Thanks
Edited:
 
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The problem is you’re looking for a binary answer to subjective questions (or questions it’s hard to be certain on).

You also need to clarify whether you’re asking ‘original’ or ‘correct’?

1/ Is the Dial original ? Probably
2/ Original tritium lume? Hard to say from those pics. Modern relumes can act the way tritium does.
3/ Hands Original? As pointed out above, I think they’re service as the service hands are slightly shorter than the originals.
4/ Are the hands Tritium Y/N ? Same as answer for dial.
5/ Clearly hands have been painted but could these hands be restored ie repainted without the lume falling out? No.
6 / Crown and pushers look original to me.. am I correct? Yes
7/ Bezel looks to me to be original? It’s correct, who knows if original.
8/ Case looks ok. Original. It’s seen a good polish or two.
9/ Is this an untouched, non rusty 321 movement? Utterly impossible to say from one blurred picture. But seems ok from what I can see on my phone.
 
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You say
But nobody has actually answered my original questions....
(I'd appreciate if someone did)

People are answering your questions...
1/ Is the Dial original ?Y/N..
3/ Hands Original? Y/N
Nobody can say for sure whether a handset or dial began its life together, unless they owned the watch since new.
minute hand seems too short to reach the minute track

Movement pics. Authentic 321? Yes/No? Tampered? Y/N? Swapped parts? Y/N?
No one will be able to answer that question based on that terrible photo.

5/ Clearly hands have been painted but could these hands be restored ie repainted without the lume falling out?
People can paint hands without lume falling out...often though they end up touching the lume with paint (its a very small are we are talking about).

2/ Original tritium lume? Y/N
ghosts around the plots scream ‘relume’ to me. Not to mention that particular color being even all round dial and hands.

6/ Case looks ok for the asking price?
The case is over polished, the dial looks tired and the bezel is average.

7/ All Comments welcome before I pull the trigger!
You have been given a lot of feedback in this thread and your varying other threads, as well as tools/resources to help you make educated decisions. I get that you still need more help on top of that, but your over eager I need to have one now approach while claiming no-one is answering your questions, when they obviously are, is going to be off-putting to many people.
 
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This is a wordy thread so I may have missed it but do you have the serial number and does it check out on ‘I love my speedmaster’?

Given potential issues here I’d need a better movement picture before continuing.
 
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Movement pics. Authentic 321? Yes/No? Tampered? Y/N? Swapped parts? Y/N?

From this picture, the answer is definitely: Y/N.... ::facepalm1::