Looking to buy a 67/68 Speedmaster 1450.12

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Thank you very helpful.
I am a new member based in North London.
I am looking for a 67/68 321 and came across this. Description looks like he knows what he’s talking about. But .....?? Also he is selling from my hometown Shrewsbury Shropshire.
Prefer originality rather than condition.
Anyone have any views. Thank you.

Dead Link/roverimp/1/710-53481-19255-0/1?pub=5574889051&toolid=10001&campid=5337239012&mpt=6712466
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I am a noob who has never owned a Speedmaster and all I can say is even I can tell that if originality over condition is what you crave, this is not the watch for you.
 
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Thank you.
I would prefer to have a watch that I could wear in fair condition not having to worry about keeping it pristine.
 
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for all their talk about the dial: original and genuine, in excellent condition, they don't mention it looks like the lume has been scrapped off completely. not worth the listed price if that is the case.
 
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Large number of service replacements, robbing the watch of most of its used vintage charm. The Omega service will have replaced a large number of the original parts and you can see the paperwork for this amongst the photos. There is a market for this, I’m sure, but you won’t many around here that would find this an attractive proposition. You could buy a new one for around half the price!
 
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for all their talk about the dial: original and genuine, in excellent condition, they don't mention it looks like the lume has been scrapped off completely. not worth the listed price if that is the case.
Thank you
 
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Large number of service replacements, robbing the watch of most of its used vintage charm. The Omega service will have replaced a large number of the original parts and you can see the paperwork for this amongst the photos. There is a market for this, I’m sure, but you won’t many around here that would find this an attractive proposition. You could buy a new one for around half the price!
Thank you
 
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Hello,

Welcome. Keep posting, the folks here will make sure you stay on the right path.

Check out Speedmaster101.com

He sometimes sells.

Also, don't be afraid to go with an active member here that is offering here in private sale thread (or dealer thread).
 
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Naive question? Historically could you have Omega service your watch without replacing parts? Or would the alternative be to request a service of your choice with a specialised watch dealer? Thanks
 
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Naive question? Historically could you have Omega service your watch without replacing parts? Or would the alternative be to request a service of your choice with a specialised watch dealer? Thanks
No, I think this is a good question. My understanding is this. Historically, a service for a watch meant replacing worn parts, touching up a tired dial and generally doing whatever necessary to return the watch to somewhere near its best. On that basis, any vintage watch that has had a service has almost certainly had parts replaced at some point.

With the vintage market being what it is now, the signs of age in a watch are what most collectors admire about the watch and what gives it character. It’s true that one collector's “cool patina” is another one's “dial damage”, but originality is what is sought and pieces in good condition therefore become highly prized.

Received wisdom is that sending a watch to Omega for service will usually result in the watch having many parts replaced, to make the piece look as near to new as possible. This is why most of us prefer using independent watchmakers who are sympathetic to the desire to preserve character. If a mainspring or other part inside goes, then sure - it needs to be replaced. But a good watchmaker will not polish the case or interfere with the dial unless instructed.
 
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Thank you very helpful.
I am a new member based in North London.
I am looking for a 67/68 321 and came across this. Description looks like he knows what he’s talking about. But .....?? Also he is selling from my hometown Shrewsbury Shropshire.
Prefer originality rather than condition.
Anyone have any views. Thank you.

Hello @adrian scott and welcome to the forum.

The seller of this watch certainly does not know what he's talking about, and you definitely want to avoid buying this example, especially as your first purchase in the vintage Speedmaster world.
And while originality is certainly very important, with vintage watches (as with all vintage items) the first three rules will always be:

1) Condition.
2) Condition.
3) Condition.
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Thank you all. There is a lot to learn, which makes it exciting but also laundry problem inducing.
 
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There are some incorrect statements in the replies above.

1. The watch is largely original except the bracelet, crown and likely hands. The mains four parts such as the case, bezel, dial and movememt look original.

2. The major issue here is condition. Particularly of the dial, which while original has lost all the lume as is not attractive. This hugely affects the value.

As @ndgal says, condition, condition, condition. This example doesn't meet that.
 
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High price for all these bad points. At this level, you could expect a correct bracelet (at least a 1116), and a nice dial with a nice tritium color. That's my humble opinion...
 
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The OP watch is terrible. For less money you can have this:

https://www.vintagespeedmaster.com/product-page/1968-omega-speedmaster-145-012-67-sp

No vested interest myself, but this is a MUCH more attractive and wearable vintage piece with attraction that OP watch lacks, and for less money



Not without issues but it is sensible price for what it is, and being from a dealer.
(And a good seller.)

Now when people say Condition Condition Condition thats all very well if you have an unlimited budget - and I can find things wrong with many watches that are claimed to be CCC.

This one (which is mine) is worth both Darren's and the ebay watch combined, and many people do not want to have that much value in an everyday watch, so therefore CCC is not really a useful protocol when looking for a practical, attractive, everyday wearable watch.

2020-04-02-11-08-43-C.jpg

CCC works when dealing with any collectable, until you are in a situation where the top quality is out of financial reach. Then you have to use your own judgement and taste to find a watch that despite not being in top condition, retains enough quality and attraction to make you want it, but at a price you can afford.

The difficulty for a newcomer is that this is not always obvious. It is I believe an easy skill to acquire, so go read www.speedmaster101.com and hopefully you will find a watch that makes your heart sing when you look at it, and you feel it was money well spent.
 
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Thank you very much for your time and effort. I appreciate the length of the replies and the detail.

I like the watch you recommend. Does the original missing silver bracelet reduce the price a lot? I cannot enlarge the pics, so difficult to assess.
Yes speedmaster101 is brilliant.
 
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Thank you very much for your time and effort. I appreciate the length of the replies and the detail.

I like the watch you recommend. Does the original missing silver bracelet reduce the price a lot? I cannot enlarge the pics, so difficult to assess.
Yes speedmaster101 is brilliant.

You can do a search on this site (and others) and find out what is the cost for a correct 1039 bracelet with 516 end links.
While you’re at it, you should also find out what an original “Flat foot” crown costs, original pushers, and original subdial hands (not service ones).

While buying more “Affordable” watches might be great for some.
I am of the opinion that for a first time purchaser buying an “Affordable” watch with service parts and no bracelet and then going on a “hunt” for the missing or correct parts beats the whole purpose of “Affordable”.

Buy a good one, that’s all correct, with no missing parts, in the best condition your budget can afford you, and be done with it.

And in the event you do not want to spend top money to get the best condition of the desired reference, I am also in the opinion that you might want to consider getting a younger reference.

Personally, I would always go for a top condition 145.022-69/71/74 over a tired 145.012 with missing or incorrect parts (but that’s just me).
 
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Absolutely agree with @ndgal.

A newbie hunting for an affordable speedmaster often ends up with a money pit, which becomes expensive in the long run.