Looking for restoration guidance re: gold Seamaster De Ville

[Jabotinsky]

Fellow enthusiasts,
I write to you all after coming across a family heirloom that no one in my family thought to give a second look. For my most recent birthday, my father passed down to me his uncle's Longines Automatic Olympian. It's a beautiful and unique piece. After discussing other family heirlooms and trinkets, he sent me a picture of his father's (my grandfather and my namesake) Omega Seamaster De Ville, laying at the bottom of a drawer with a dusty box. My father thought it was comparable to something like a Timex. To be clear, neither of us were very familiar with the world of fine mechanical watchmaking prior to finding these pieces. In the last year, I have taken an intense interest to automatic watches and specifically in maintaining these two vintage watches to the best of my ability. When I heard that he had a Seamaster laying around in a drawer, I knew it was something special.

I took this Seamaster De Ville to an Omega boutique that is local to me this past weekend and I was told by the friendly staff that the watch would require a round trip to Switzerland for approximately 6 months in order to undergo a full restoration. The gentleman I spoke with informed me that the crown is not an original crown, and I could not find an original Omega strap to present with the watch either. It appears that my grandfather wore this watch with a Bulova expansion band (included in pictures).

It might be worth while to add a few crucial details here before I eventually get to my question, namely, that this watch also appears to be engraved on the back of the case. Something that my grandmother likely had written as a note to my grandfather when she gifted this watch to him. I think I would want to preserve that as much as possible. I also want to preserve as many of the original Omega components as possible, something that the gentleman at Omega informed be would be difficult, due to apparent water damage on the face/back of the face/in the movement.

The Omega salesman informed me that the cost of a full restoration would be approximately $2500, clearly more than the current value of the watch. I have no intention of selling it, but I am still in my 20's and not necessarily in the position to spend $2500 for a restoration. My question is: would I be better off taking it to an authorized Omega watch repair center? Would I still receive any papers or authentication that the watch was rehabilitated by Omega?
Thank you all for reading. I very much appreciate any and all guidance.

 

[Jabotinsky]

Box

 

[DaveK]

Great introduction, and welcome to the forum. I don’t see any significant damage that would require a restoration (others will chime in). I would get it serviced locally ($300?) and wear it as your grandfather left it. I wouldn’t keep it on a watch winder myself, but would certainly suggest you take it off of it until you get it serviced

 

[Yomega]

Neither do i. If the case looks rough to you, a bit of cleaning ans maybe some light capecod will really bring back the shine!

 

[Jabotinsky]

DaveK

Great introduction, and welcome to the forum. I don’t see any significant damage that would require a restoration (others will chime in). I would get it serviced locally ($300?) and wear it as your grandfather left it. I wouldn’t keep it on a watch winder myself, but would certainly suggest you take it off of it until you get it serviced

Thanks very much for the reply. Can I ask you why you would take it off the watch winder? Is that something I should do after it is serviced as well? Thanks again.

 

[Jabotinsky]

Yomega

Neither do i. If the case looks rough to you, a bit of cleaning ans maybe some light capecod will really bring back the shine!

Sounds promising! Thank you very much for taking a look.

 

[DaveK]

There are as many opinions on watch winders as there are people here, just do site search on the topic. I expect though that most would agree that if the watch hasn’t been serviced recently (maybe within 5 - 7years), and if you love the watch, then don’t wear it regularly, and certainly don’t keep it on a watch winder. The watch might be working, but the oils have dried and it will be grinding itself to a slow sad and expensive death

 

[Jabotinsky]

DaveK

There are as many opinions on watch winders as there are people here, just do site search on the topic. I expect though that most would agree that if the watch hasn’t been serviced recently (maybe within 5 - 7years), and if you love the watch, then don’t wear it regularly, and certainly don’t keep it on a watch winder. The watch might be working, but the oils have dried and it will be grinding itself to a slow sad and expensive death

Wow, I can’t thank you enough for this info. I’ll certainly be doing some more research.

 

[DaveK]

There’s lots of great info here for sure. Let us know where you are located and maybe someone can recommend a watchmaker for you.

 

[malilis]

a restoration quoted at 2,500.$ seems not reasonable (to say the least) for that model .. just get it serviced (180. to 300.€ max) by a competent watch smith and wear it !
good luck !

 

[DON]

Don't see anything that suggests water damage. Simple clean, very light case polish and replace the crystal.

Crown. More difficult. You can buy modern, but gold plated. people selling NOS (new old stock) on Ebay are 99.99% selling modern crowns, but you may find a gently used gold filled model, but the seller would need to know the difference

DON

 

[Jabotinsky]

DON

Don't see anything that suggests water damage. Simple clean, very light case polish and replace the crystal.

Crown. More difficult. You can buy modern, but gold plated. people selling NOS (new old stock) on Ebay are 99.99% selling modern crowns, but you may find a gently used gold filled model, but the seller would need to know the difference

DON

DON

Don't see anything that suggests water damage. Simple clean, very light case polish and replace the crystal.

Crown. More difficult. You can buy modern, but gold plated. people selling NOS (new old stock) on Ebay are 99.99% selling modern crowns, but you may find a gently used gold filled model, but the seller would need to know the difference

DON

This is great to know. Thank you for the info

 

[SkunkPrince]

Where are you so we can recommend someone nearby?

Price of service will vary greatly depending on who you use and what they think is appropriate intervention. Don't get too hung up on "keeping original parts"... that's something hardcore collectors care about, and that watch has been serviced more than once (you note incorrect crown) so it's not as it came from the factory anyways.

What I consider proper service in USA would mean new crown, crystal, mainspring, and caseback gasket (can't tell if it's a frontloader?) at a minimum and replacement of worn movement parts as well. In many areas, this is more than $500. There are rumors of pockets of old watchmakers who don't charge that much. But don't necessarily take as gospel someone who says that any specific price is "too much"... make them tell you who their watchmaker is.

That Omega Boutique person was misinformed, by the way. It might need to go to Switzerland... but it might not. True, you cannot get an original strap, but you can get an Omega-branded strap and buckle, should you want one.

Nesbit's in Seattle is an independent watch repair shop that is Omega factory authorized and has access to genuine Omega parts (not everyone does) so that is where I will be sending certain watches in the future for service. Yours is fairly ordinary within the realm of Omega, so they should be able to do a good job for you, should you choose them.

 

[Jabotinsky]

SkunkPrince

Where are you so we can recommend someone nearby?

Price of service will vary greatly depending on who you use and what they think is appropriate intervention. Don't get too hung up on "keeping original parts"... that's something hardcore collectors care about, and that watch has been serviced more than once (you note incorrect crown) so it's not as it came from the factory anyways.

What I consider proper service in USA would mean new crown, crystal, mainspring, and caseback gasket (can't tell if it's a frontloader?) at a minimum and replacement of worn movement parts as well. In many areas, this is more than $500. There are rumors of pockets of old watchmakers who don't charge that much. But don't necessarily take as gospel someone who says that any specific price is "too much"... make them tell you who their watchmaker is.

That Omega Boutique person was misinformed, by the way. It might need to go to Switzerland... but it might not. True, you cannot get an original strap, but you can get an Omega-branded strap and buckle, should you want one.

Nesbit's in Seattle is an independent watch repair shop that is Omega factory authorized and has access to genuine Omega parts (not everyone does) so that is where I will be sending certain watches in the future for service. Yours is fairly ordinary within the realm of Omega, so they should be able to do a good job for you, should you choose them.

Thank you for the reply. I am currently in southeast PA and found a place that looked promising: https://precisionwatches.com/about-precision-watches-willow-grove/

I think I would be very happy with what you suggested here. Can you tell me if you know, would I receive any proof of authentication or any Omega documents if I choose to go with a Omega certified repair, such as the one I linked above? Is there any reason for me wanting these documents other than to be able to say that I have Omega papers and Omega box? It's not something I'm that bothered with, but just curious.
Thanks again.

 

[kkt]

You should know that polish such as the Restoration the Omega Switzerland would like to do is controversial. It does make the watch look new and shiny. The majority collector viewpoint is that a watch should be clean but reflect its age and use. For instance, it would be a crime to polish off the inscription from your grandmother to your grandfather, and a lot of people don't mind some small scratches because the watch was actually worn. A polished watch is worth a lot less on the used market. There's also just so much thickness of gold, and each polish removes a little, and polishing dulls the sharp edges at the lugs. Omega service is infamous for polishing watches that are sent to them too heavily even if the customer wrote instructions not to. Of course it's your watch and if you decide you'd like it polished that's a valid choice.

Nesbit's service does a good job. They are on the high end pricewise, about $750, but if you tell them not to polish it they'll respect that, and they are Omega authorized for service so they can order any replacement parts it needs from Omega. And they high price generally includes whatever parts it needs.

As for the band, be aware first that watches of that time period generally were sold without a band so that the customer could have a choice of several kinds of leather or a metal bracelet. It's not unusual to see a watch with a third party bracelet. Leather straps are available from many sources, and there are Omega branded metal bracelets and straps if you'd like that.

 

[SkunkPrince]

Jabotinsky

Thank you for the reply. I am currently in southeast PA and found a place that looked promising: https://precisionwatches.com/about-precision-watches-willow-grove/

I think I would be very happy with what you suggested here. Can you tell me if you know, would I receive any proof of authentication or any Omega documents if I choose to go with a Omega certified repair, such as the one I linked above? Is there any reason for me wanting these documents other than to be able to say that I have Omega papers and Omega box? It's not something I'm that bothered with, but just curious.
Thanks again.

You don't need authentication. It's obvious to most of us that you have a genuine Omega watch. About all you would recieve should you send your watch to Omega factory service is a service warranty card. If they think it's not original, they won't service it. I don't think there's any purpose in you having any documentation

I would like to rebut some things our esteemed member kkt has said.

First of all, what level of intervention you want is completely up to you. Fuck the collectors! It is your watch to do with as you choose.

Second, polishing by an incompetent may result in rounded edges, blunted contours, and so forth. There is also machine polishing versus hand polishing. Hand polishing is you with Simichrome or similar versus someone with a buffer and a rack full of different abrasives. There are some true artists with a buffer; for example, a third generation musical instrument technician from Milwaukee, Charlie Melk, can do magic with a buffer without ruining the instrument. A decent watchmaker will do the same: only go as far as prudent, if at all. I am lucky to have such an artisan here!

Member kkt suggests your service might cost $750 from Nesbit's. It's certainly possible, but I had a 2254.50.00 Seamaster Professional serviced and it was nowhere near that much, closer to $500.

The suggestion that your watch was sold without a strap stretches credulity. Of course it was sold with a strap! That doesn't necessarily mean that the strap it came with is the one your grandparent walked out the door with; if a customer asked for something different, they would certainly be accommodated. Many of us buy an aftermarket strap of good quality and add an Omega buckle, for example.

The store you cite appears to have all of what you need. Decide what you want when you walk in, and if you choose to have any case refinishing done, ask to see examples of what they did in the past. Just remember that you are in charge of what you want. If you want to keep it as found, that is certainly a reasonable perspective. If you want a mild refinish, for example hand polishing, that is also reasonable. I do not pay attention to collectors because I like my watches to be nice. Not a one complained about the case and bracelet refinish on my latest, by the way, because it was done properly.

Good luck and ask more questions if you need to!

 

[Jabotinsky]

kkt

You should know that polish such as the Restoration the Omega Switzerland would like to do is controversial. It does make the watch look new and shiny. The majority collector viewpoint is that a watch should be clean but reflect its age and use. For instance, it would be a crime to polish off the inscription from your grandmother to your grandfather, and a lot of people don't mind some small scratches because the watch was actually worn. A polished watch is worth a lot less on the used market. There's also just so much thickness of gold, and each polish removes a little, and polishing dulls the sharp edges at the lugs. Omega service is infamous for polishing watches that are sent to them too heavily even if the customer wrote instructions not to. Of course it's your watch and if you decide you'd like it polished that's a valid choice.

Nesbit's service does a good job. They are on the high end pricewise, about $750, but if you tell them not to polish it they'll respect that, and they are Omega authorized for service so they can order any replacement parts it needs from Omega. And they high price generally includes whatever parts it needs.

As for the band, be aware first that watches of that time period generally were sold without a band so that the customer could have a choice of several kinds of leather or a metal bracelet. It's not unusual to see a watch with a third party bracelet. Leather straps are available from many sources, and there are Omega branded metal bracelets and straps if you'd like that.

This is great information. I really appreciate the response. I definitely do not want to polish the watch at all, if possible. I think I would also be very happy with an Omega strap, regardless of the time period it comes from. Just something to replace the generic leather strap I have on there now. Thanks again for the info.

 

[Jabotinsky]

SkunkPrince

You don't need authentication. It's obvious to most of us that you have a genuine Omega watch. About all you would recieve should you send your watch to Omega factory service is a service warranty card. If they think it's not original, they won't service it. I don't think there's any purpose in you having any documentation

I would like to rebut some things our esteemed member kkt has said.

First of all, what level of intervention you want is completely up to you. Fuck the collectors! It is your watch to do with as you choose.

Second, polishing by an incompetent may result in rounded edges, blunted contours, and so forth. There is also machine polishing versus hand polishing. Hand polishing is you with Simichrome or similar versus someone with a buffer and a rack full of different abrasives. There are some true artists with a buffer; for example, a third generation musical instrument technician from Milwaukee, Charlie Melk, can do magic with a buffer without ruining the instrument. A decent watchmaker will do the same: only go as far as prudent, if at all. I am lucky to have such an artisan here!

Member kkt suggests your service might cost $750 from Nesbit's. It's certainly possible, but I had a 2254.50.00 Seamaster Professional serviced and it was nowhere near that much, closer to $500.

The suggestion that your watch was sold without a strap stretches credulity. Of course it was sold with a strap! That doesn't necessarily mean that the strap it came with is the one your grandparent walked out the door with; if a customer asked for something different, they would certainly be accommodated. Many of us buy an aftermarket strap of good quality and add an Omega buckle, for example.

The store you cite appears to have all of what you need. Decide what you want when you walk in, and if you choose to have any case refinishing done, ask to see examples of what they did in the past. Just remember that you are in charge of what you want. If you want to keep it as found, that is certainly a reasonable perspective. If you want a mild refinish, for example hand polishing, that is also reasonable. I do not pay attention to collectors because I like my watches to be nice. Not a one complained about the case and bracelet refinish on my latest, by the way, because it was done properly.

Good luck and ask more questions if you need to!

Wow, I can't say thank you enough for this response! I'm a bit overwhelmed at how helpful everyone has been here and I feel like I have a pretty good idea now of what to say and ask for when I go to take the watch in. Thanks for taking a look at the post and the website I shared. I think I'll be setting up an appointment there.

 

[DaveK]

Generic straps are okay to, no one will think any less of your watch because of it. $40 will buy a nice Hirsch

 

[kkt]

Please note, SkunkPrince, that I did not tell Jabotinsky that he must not polish his watch! I wrote:

Of course it's your watch and if you decide you'd like it polished that's a valid choice.

Just pointed out that there is variety of opinion about polishing.

I could show you receipts from Nesbits, who I like very much and will continue to use despite the prices, but it's beside the point since he has someone local.