Looking for Advice on a Watchmaker Conundrum

Posts
441
Likes
3,724
I recently had my Seamaster 600 and Constellation Pie Pan serviced by a local Omega-certified watchmaker here in New Zealand. Upon completion of the work, the watches were mailed to me last week as I do not live in Auckland, where the servicing was performed.

Upon opening the package, I noticed a small crack in the crystal of the Seamaster 600, which is peculiar considering the watch was well-packaged, and the delivery box showed no damage. Additionally, the Constellation was changing date at 2:30 am, which is annoying but manageable. However, the cracked crystal is a more significant issue which needed addressing.

I have had previous issues with this specific watchmaker but returned to them due to their satisfactory rectification of the last two mistakes. These included snapping the chronograph hand on my 145.022 76 (without informing me) and failing to tighten the chronograph hand sufficiently on my Flightmaster, causing it to reset to 58 seconds.

As a result of these four issues, I felt I had endured enough with this watchmaker and decided to end our working relationship and sent the 600 to another larger Omega-certified watchmaker in Auckland (as there are no such options locally).

I informed the second watchmaker that I only required a crystal replacement, as the watch had been serviced a week prior. Today, they provided a quote of NZD$580 (USD$332.42) as the watch needed a new crystal, crown, and gaskets. Considering I had just spent NZD$905 (USD$530) on a full service, I was quite shocked.

The second watchmaker explained that they replace gaskets every time a watch is opened, which seems excessive given the recent service and brand new gaskets. Additionally, they claim the watch needs a new crown, which further raises questions about the first watchmaker's workmanship and the larger watchmaker's practices of potentially charging for unnecessary gasket and crown replacements under the guise of waterproofing.

I apologise for the length of this post, but I would greatly appreciate any advice on how to proceed.

I feel caught between a rock and a hard place.

On a side note, I had the crystal replaced on the 600 last year in Melbourne while on business. The watchmaker there completed the replacement in one hour for AUD$65 (USD$42).
 
Posts
20,253
Likes
46,951
I will just say that it makes sense to replace the crystal gasket when replacing the crystal. The rest, I don't know.
 
Posts
16,260
Likes
44,755
My first reaction was -fυck that! But then thinking about it - factory crystals for all omega watches have shot up in the last few year- I don’t know the pricing but $100US wouldn’t be out of reality anymore. Crown is probably around $50-75US, gasket $10 (we are taking about Omega parts costs- not Cousins rubber band specials) and an hour of their time which for any specialty trade is probably around $100-150/hr these days, think about how much it costs to change the oil, replace a CV boot and do a standard inspection on a German car at a certified independent shop- about the same.

I say pay the shop, lick your wounds and find a new watchmaker. Several on this forum in NZ- perhaps not Omega certified, but competent and qualified and have access to parts.
 
Posts
1,724
Likes
3,569
My first reaction was -fυck that! But then thinking about it - factory crystals for all omega watches have shot up in the last few year- I don’t know the pricing but $100US wouldn’t be out of reality anymore. Crown is probably around $50-75US, gasket $10 (we are taking about Omega parts costs- not Cousins rubber band specials) and an hour of their time which for any specialty trade is probably around $100-150/hr these days, think about how much it costs to change the oil, replace a CV boot and do a standard inspection on a German car at a certified independent shop- about the same.

I say pay the shop, lick your wounds and find a new watchmaker. Several on this forum in NZ- perhaps not Omega certified, but competent and qualified and have access to parts.
I agree with this- its cheaper than flying to Melbourne!
 
Posts
441
Likes
3,724
Thanks for your responses. @JwRosenthal
Although I did mention costs entailed, I'm not questioning the expense, more the practice of dumping a caseback gasket that was inserted only a week prior, and the fact that the crown also needs replacing after a supposed 'full service'... I find the whole thing questionable, and just wanted to see if that feeling was justified.

@SOG53 it's marginally cheaper.

Ultimately I have very few options open to me based on the fact that I live at the arse end of the world and there's really only about 4 places I can get this work done.
 
Posts
16,260
Likes
44,755
Of course- I agree about the back gasket (crystal doesn’t have one- it’s a pressure fit acrylic) but I understand that (to use cars again) some companies consider fasteners a one-time use and will replace every fastener they remove from trim or covers etc. If they don’t know the age of that seal (considering your former watchmaker was a little questionable to begin with) and it leaks while under their warranty period- then they are on the hook. It’s cheap insurance for them that all the waterproofing parts are indeed waterproof.
 
Posts
4,823
Likes
14,457
If the watchmaker was Omaga certified, would the Omega mothership back you up to make it right?
 
Posts
11,318
Likes
19,824
I’d be going back to the first watchmaker and getting him to rectify, even if I knew it was the last time I would send anything to him.
 
Posts
441
Likes
3,724
@Davidt yeah, I feel inclined to do that... but I've been burnt too many times by those guys... if I went back it would be like returning to an abusive relationship...
 
Posts
247
Likes
709
If the gasket was just changed, there is no reason it needs to be changed again. Rubber gaskets are multi use items. There are certain case back gaskets on some Omega models that are a nylon style that are one use only, they need to be changed to ensure waterproofing.

Couple of things to tackle here - first, if you want to keep everything original and not make it water resistant, that is your right to do so. I do a lot of work for people who want everything original and we leave it as-is. They need to know that the watch won’t be water resistant, the invoice states that and we move on. I’m talking collectors here. Omega don’t give you that option, but an independent Omega watchmaker will.

The second thing - I get a lot of work come through my shop that has been to other watchmakers. Even after the watch has been ‘fully serviced’ I tell the customer it needs to be done again, and I’ll provide photographic evidence of why. Had it happen twice this month with 2 Omega’s.

I’m not giving a guarantee on someone else’s work. The age old story, “sure, I’ll do just that one part for you as it was recently serviced” I say. Customer comes back “my watch has stopped working, it was working great before I took it to you, and you touched it last!” The watch was never working well and I happened to touch it last, so now I’m fighting about a job I made $50 on. Perhaps the shop you have them with now are worried about this and are trying to avoid it.

Advice - cut your ties with the old watchmaker, and possibly the new. Find someone you can have a conversation with about what’s wrong, what needs to be done to fix it and how to move forward.

PS - I’m a Kiwi from New Plymouth who now lives in Canada.
 
Posts
441
Likes
3,724
@precisionhrlgy this is the type of advice I was hoping to get and will definitely follow your recommendation... even though I'm now down to the two last options in the entire country.

Thanks again.

I'm from Oakura... so only an 8 minute drive from your old hometown.
 
Posts
16,260
Likes
44,755
Do know that a service crown will be the modern cylindrical with fine splines style and not the petal style you have now. Since they already have your watch, if you don’t care about waterproofing and want to keep it original- just tell them to keep the original crown on there and sign whatever waiver releasing them of their liability.
Eat the few bucks on the rear gasket and have them do the crystal. Then send the bill to the former watchmaker and tell them you expect reimbursement and why yo chose not to send it back to them.
 
Posts
1,943
Likes
1,190
Current RRP of most Omega plexi’s is $160CAD plus tax.
Is that what they cost now! Back when I was restoring. About $30 installed at Perrins early and mid 2000

Of course watches cheaper back then also
 
Posts
16,260
Likes
44,755
DON DON
Is that what they cost now! Back when I was restoring. About $30 installed at Perrins early and mid 2000

Of course watches cheaper back then also
And people still bristled at $30 as a GS crystal was $4 and you could buy a SM600 for $200.
 
Posts
1,943
Likes
1,190
And people still bristled at $30 as a GS crystal was $4 and you could buy a SM600 for $200.
Once my watchmaker passed away in 2008. I stopped restoring. He charged me $25 - $35 to clean my watches as I picked up parts for him and sold him parts at cost if he needed
 
Posts
5,368
Likes
9,147
@Davidt yeah, I feel inclined to do that... but I've been burnt too many times by those guys... if I went back it would be like returning to an abusive relationship...
No one will love you like that watchmaker does. You are not worthy of receiving watchmaker love. You are lucky he does. No other watchmaker will give you the time of day, so don't even bother trying. Just go back to your watchmaker, and he will find it in his heart to forgive you. But you will need to work hard to make it up to him.

😈
 
Posts
16,260
Likes
44,755
No one will love you like that watchmaker does. You are not worthy of receiving watchmaker love. You are lucky he does. No other watchmaker will give you the time of day, so don't even bother trying. Just go back to your watchmaker, and he will find it in his heart to forgive you. But you will need to work hard to make it up to him.

😈

David, this isn’t a Rolex service provider- I think you forgot the rest of the world doesn’t function like that.