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w154
·I tried to catch an image from the side as it might help others to ID the E1 at some point. You can clearly see the metal dial base, then the white enamel layer on top, then the black paint.
Longines 3582 'Majetek'
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J_pilot
·Hi all! Figured I’d dredge this thread up as I was doing a little surgery on my second gen Majetek (delivered 1941, ref. 20440, gloss enamel dial) and got a look at the underside, which was quite interesting. Pics as below. Anyone know what the “S” or “5” stands for? Singer??
Semi-relatedly, anyone have a good lead on a later-style Majetek crown? Discovered mine is more JB Weld than brass - lol
Semi-relatedly, anyone have a good lead on a later-style Majetek crown? Discovered mine is more JB Weld than brass - lol
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watchyouwant
·@DirtyDozen12
If you have time could you offer an opinion on a dial I have. There are plenty of pictures and some discussion over on MWR starting at post 32.
https://www.mwrforum.net/forums/sho...gines-Ref-3582&p=349744&viewfull=1#post349744
I’m starting to wonder now if this is just an E1, but I thought all enamel dials had a glossy look and a kind of orange peel texture. This one is just completely smooth and matt black.
All correct.
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DrZ123
·I am looking at a few pieces with plans to buy one. So hard to distinguish and tell which are original and which are not. I love the history of the Majetek and of course the look.
Any opinions appreciated.
Any opinions appreciated.
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pdxleaf
·From the Longines museum, for comparison:
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DirtyDozen12
··Thanks, mystery donor!Hi all! Figured I’d dredge this thread up as I was doing a little surgery on my second gen Majetek (delivered 1941, ref. 20440, gloss enamel dial) and got a look at the underside, which was quite interesting. Pics as below. Anyone know what the “S” or “5” stands for? Singer??
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DirtyDozen12
··Thanks, mystery donor!D DrZ123I am looking at a few pieces with plans to buy one. So hard to distinguish and tell which are original and which are not. I love the history of the Majetek and of course the look.
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DrZ123
·I would suggest that you look closely at the dials I posted on the first page of this thread in order to familiarize yourself with the fonts. From the three examples that you posted, the first looks like a correct dial for the cal. 15.94, the second is not original, and the third looks like a correct dial for the cal. 15.68Z.
Thank you so much for the reply. Maybe my eye is not as sharp as yours, can you please point out what exactly is showing you why the one is not original and what points to the other ones corresponding to those movements?
Thank you so much for the insight and research!
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pdxleaf
·Look at the 'g', for one thing. The height of the round top and the shortness of the loop below compared to the originals.
I'm a novice at this also and appreciate your question. This is what jumped out for me.
I'm a novice at this also and appreciate your question. This is what jumped out for me.
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DirtyDozen12
··Thanks, mystery donor!D DrZ123Thank you so much for the reply. Maybe my eye is not as sharp as yours, can you please point out what exactly is showing you why the one is not original
With respect to dials corresponding to certain movements, I have collected data that I ought to share at some point. Regarding the third example from Curious Curio, a number of details (e.g., upright numbers in the sub-dial) indicate that this dial corresponds to cal. 15.68Z. The first dial is one of a few variants that is found in examples with cal. 15.94.
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Lépine
·Here's an interesting watch. A 1937 Civilian watch.
Same time period as Wolfgang Guth the agent for the military.
Same time period as Wolfgang Guth the agent for the military.
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Lépine
·Here is an interesting case. Nearly brand new, but the screw is in the wrong place and the notch is
crooked with cutting tool marks in it. How is a 1935 watch case that flew in many dog fights have not one scratch on it? The edges of the case are sharp there is no sign of wear from the flight jacket. Poldi Anti-Corro is very soft steel that you can rub it with your jeans and wear down a corner.
Normally it looks like this. The notch is at the edge of the top case to make it easier to separate the top and bottom of the case.
What is the point of the above notch located in the center of the top case?
crooked with cutting tool marks in it. How is a 1935 watch case that flew in many dog fights have not one scratch on it? The edges of the case are sharp there is no sign of wear from the flight jacket. Poldi Anti-Corro is very soft steel that you can rub it with your jeans and wear down a corner.
Normally it looks like this. The notch is at the edge of the top case to make it easier to separate the top and bottom of the case.
What is the point of the above notch located in the center of the top case?
Edited:
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Waltesefalcon
·Here is an interesting case. Nearly brand new, but the screw is in the wrong place and the notch is
crooked with cutting tool marks in it. How is a 1935 watch case that few in a dog fight have not one scratch on it? The edges of the case are sharp there is no sign of wear from the flight jacket. Poldi Anti-Corro is very soft steel that you can rub it with your jeans and wear down a corner.
Normally it looks like this. The notch is at the edge of the top case to make it easier to separate the top and bottom of the case.
What is the point of the above notch located in the center of the top case?
