Learn about watchmaking - for non-watchmakers

Hi all,

I am quite new to the watch hobby. Recently a new incoming watch did not run anymore when it arrived, although I know it worked fine when it was sent to me. I felt a fascination for the tiny mechanics inside of watches before but that showed me again, that until now I have (nearly) no knowledge about how a movement really works.

Therefore I first want to dive deeper and accumulate more knowledge about basic principles and parts.
In a (more distant future) I would like to try working on a cheap/defect movement. On the one hand to get some "hands-on insights" and on the other hand to follow the small chance of fixing/servicing a defect one.

To get there I would like to ask you for tipps, tricks and literature recommendations.

In detail:
- Can you recommend books (english/german) explaining basic principles of hand-wound/automatic watches? If possible with many pictures and maybe even cross-references to the most common defects and error patterns.
- Manuals/guidelines specific for certain movements?
- What would be the easiest (i guess hand-wound) movement to start with, that is not so precious and with easy-to-obtain parts?
- At the moment i just have standard tools to open case-backs, change straps, hold movements etc. Are there any recommendable and not too expensive "watchmaking starter-sets"?
- I would be also interested in a seminar for absolute beginners. I am located in Bavaria/Germany. So if anybody has tried something in this direction, please let me know.

I really enjoy reading OF. Thanks for having me!

Have a nice weekend!

I'm looking forward to the answers you get. I've been wondering many of these questions, too. I have heard (from a YouTube channel I follow) that pocket watches are nice to start with because the movements are much larger, and you can find them for cheap.

https://www.youtube.com/c/RedDeadRestoration
👍

While obviously not comprehensive, the WWII ordnance manual on military watches is a clear and understandable guide for new watchmakers that explains pretty much everything... and it's free!

https://archive.org/details/TM9-1575

Good that you mention pocket watches: Actually I might have a project available. My grandmother gave it to me but it is not working. I think the axis of the balance wheel is broken.

I am starting that journey also. Found this web site:

How to Get into Watchmaking - NO BS WATCHMAKER

They recommend starting with an ETA 6498 or 6497. I bought a chinese watch with a knock-off ETA 6498 on Amazon for about $100. It is much bigger than the movement in the 34mm 1950's and 1960's Omegas

Thank you @Thomas Morse! The practical approach using the ETA 6498 sounds like something I would like to give a try.

A real ETA will cost a lot more than the Chinese copy. That would be better suited to a first project, I think. When the real watchmakers stop by, they will have good recommendations, I am sure.

Yes, you are right. I just checked prices and found some clones for ~50€ like this one: https://www.ebay.de/itm/27520467826...t6dfmgxq-s&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Now I am looking for used precision screwdivers, loupes etc. in local ebay-listings. Maybe someone else attempted something similar and found him/herself not so enthusiastic after a while.

Jendritzki’s - The Watch Repair Manual is a must have.
There is also practical watch repair by DeCarle

I agree that along with reading, a pocket watch movement is best to start

Crappy tools won't do you any good, especially if you're a younger person. You can keep them your whole life and it's money well spent.

Bergeron is usually the brand you see. Definitely wait for one of the real watchmakers to contribute before you buy anything.

That's a good advice. I stumbled across Bergeon tools. However, before buying tools I would like to know the amount of different sizes and formats (slotted, cross-head) one would actually really need.

So as a question to the real watchmakers:
Which essential tools would you choose for a beginner toolbox? Are there specific tools that do not necessary have to be of top quality (e.g. plastic movement holder)?

The copy I ended up getting had a single piece bridge instead of two pieces. Make putting it back together just a little more difficult. With a little more practice I might dig into a real ETA 6498 movement. I think Hamilton and Tissot use them.

I was able to obtain the movement that I posted above for ~37€ (10% ebay code and make an offer) - a good price for me. Let's keep each other updated, how we proceed 😀

What do you think of these Beco tools and Bergeon 5x loupe?

Satz mit 7 Uhrmacher Schraubendreher von Beco https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B00PUSS5TA/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_PETZM4HQKBHQN99ZZ3Z6

Bergeon 2611-TN 5X Uhrmacherbrille Lupe Biconvex Air 2 https://smile.amazon.de/dp/B07YMVWFX5/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_FYKABN55YXWHC5NWMCPH?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

As someone who is currently working on getting into a watchmaking school next year, I have started tinkering on my own for the time being.
I can share a few of my experiences as I have started down this (increasingly) expensive rabbit hole.

I did the opposite of what everyone says and actually cut my teeth on womens movements. While they are TINY, there are a good amount more available at considerably more affordable price points. As such when I was just getting started out I was always scouring the auctions for omega 620 movements, and after a while looking for pretty much any womens manual wind watch of the era. You start to recognise what potential movements will be inside a watch from the dimensions and shape after you look at enough.
Womens movements while tiny, are so much more affordable that I often found that picking up a whole new watch was often cheaper than trying to source just a part.

With regards to tools, screw drivers, magnification, movement holder, hand levers, hand setters, tweezers, oils, oilers and cleaing solution of some sort. I think that would get you started... At the start I found myself pretty constantly discovering that I needed something else to get a task done, and it really does add up. The staff at my local watchmakers supply store started to recognise me pretty quickly...

I started with a cheaper AF set of screwdrivers (AF are swiss, but the drivers themselves seem to be made in france) and while they served me well for a time, I found the upgrade to a proper bergeon set once I got my bearings to be a truly night and day experience. That said, there are the occasional tasks where I would be loathe to use my bergeon drivers and having the "cheap" set for that is useful (like removing a hardened gasket from a case)

Do you have glasses? If you do, you might want to consider looking into a loupe that can clip onto your glasses, I tried the conventional loupe and the wire to clip it to my head and that really was no dice. I ended up forking out a not so trivial sum for a vintage bausch and lomb clip on loupe, but I think finding a loupe you find comfortable is a very important task, and the effect of good magnification is not one to be underestimated.

I cheaped out and picked up one of those anchor branded movement holders at a local watchmakers supply store... I was back 2 days later buying the bergeon one... I really came to appreciate what I was paying for when using the bergeon one (or at least that what i tell myself to console my wallet)

I currently use a set of AF hand levers, AF appear to be the more budget friendly "swiss" brand for tools so you will undoubtedly encounter them in your search for tools. They have been serving me well, but I am also considering upgrading eventually, however certainly they have gotten me started just fine.

Hand setting tools, I started with the really cheap no brand ones (presumably made in china, but who really knows) they worked, and given just how much cheaper they are than the bergeon or horotec ones I still think they were a good purchase. Again though, common theme here... I ended up just buying the bergeon set some months down the line.

Tweezers... I actually already had a bunch of actually really quite high end dumont tweezers from previous jobs and other hobby work, so I didnt really try watch stuff with cheap tweezers, but lets just say my experience with model building already taught me not to cheap out on my tools, and tweezers being one of your main tools with the screwdrivers aren't worth trying to be cheap with. I also picked up some brass tweezers eventually and I actually really like these too.

Oils and oilers. Since I knew I was going in the deep end I just gave up and went straight for moebius, I dont think there are really that many alternatives around, and everything you look up online always references moebius, so I kinda feel like this one is unavoidable.
Oilers I started with the AF set, again after moving to the bergeon set its night and day, but I do think the AF ones served me well enough that I am not annoyed that I bought them.

Cleaning solutions... This one gets tricky as what you can find will vary a LOT based on location. I currently use Benzine and a locally produced watch part cleaning fluid.

Other smaller things like the mat, a holder for your parts, a casing cushion, rodico, peg wood, pith wood, finger cots... while these are "cheap" theres a lot of these things and it does add up.

For resources, chronoglide on youtube (https://www.youtube.com/c/ChronoglideWatchmaking) has been a wonderful source for me, as has been https://watchguy.co.uk/ for the photo gallery, and technical guides.
https://www.youtube.com/c/VintageWatchServices on youtube has also been a very informative source.
This forum of course, I was and continue to be deeply moved by how generous the people here are with their time and knowledge. I havent been here long enough to make any shoutouts and I would hate to forget to mention anyone in particular so I will refrain from mentioning any names.

I feel like I must have forgotten something... I haven't even mentioned anything for dealing with cases, or tools for when something is broken... but this has already turned into quite the essay.

Perhaps we can make threads when we start a project and track how we go about solving problems, I for one would love to discuss learning watchmaking with both fellow beginners and the professionals here. I look forward to talking watchmaking more with you!

I recently embarked on pursuing a similar hobby. I really enjoyed Wristwatch Revival on YouTube. Also agree with above and start with a 6497.

when you are feeling adventurous, you can try Vostok movements from Etsy because they are cheap, decent quality, and sell in bulk. You also have the benefit of learning how to troubleshoot and you will have unlimited spare parts!

have fun exploring!

Wristwatch Revival is the channel that "revived" my interest in watches and in vintage watches in particular. He does some polishing (of the worst cases only) and cleaning of dials that should probably not be done by beginners. But his presentation is very informative and enjoyable to watch.

Thanks for the great summary. Do you have a tool for setting the mainspring, or do you do it by hand? That part more than anything (other than the expense) intimidates me from starting a project of my own.

Every time he cleans a dial I nearly shit myself.

Do you mean winding the mainspring into the barrel? I’ve done it successfully by hand but you are better off spending a little extra and getting a right hand winder + barrels for the winder as you need them. Bergeon is worth the $$$ in this case.

although my personal opinion is to replace the mainspring with a new one when available every service. Usually costs about $8-15 but well worth it.