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bgrisso
路Others have already pointed out most of what there is to say. But just to record things visually...
Below is a moonphase disc with face and blue paint intact:
Below is a moonphase disc with face with blue paint faded to brown/gold, as the majority of them all have:
Below is a photo of the disc only, showing how the blue paint fades to gold/brown:
Below is a photo showing a moonphase disc with face with the blue paint in the PROCESS of fading to gold/brown:
Below is a photo of a moonphase disc without face (and correctly so I believe based on serial), the blue paint on faceless discs has not generally faded:
Here is another even later example, also correct with faceless moonphase disc:
As Larry already pointed out, while we don't have an exact serial range nailed down for the transition from face to faceless, the OP example is clearly in a range that should have a face. So it's been replaced. That could be because the paint faded, or perhaps the dial and moonphase were replaced together due to condition issues, it's impossible to know.
My PERSONAL approach to valuation regarding moonphase discs is that I place a premium on original, unfaded blue moonphase discs with face where they are expected by date. Slight less value to faded examples. Slightly less value to faceless examples where face is expected, as in the case of the OP watch.
However, in this particular example, because the dial and case are so clean, I actually prefer the faceless disc, even though not original, because the blue accent really makes things pop. So for me, I would not hesitate to buy this example due to the non original moonphase disc, if I loved the watch otherwise and the price was acceptable. I think the OP example is extremely attractive, I would want to see a movement shot. If the movement is pristine as the rest of the watch, that would be nice. If not, I might wonder a bit how much it's been "prepped", but this still would not put me off if the price was OK. But I will go out on a limb and say that I already suspect the price is probably beyond what I would consider acceptable, FOR ME.
Lastly, @Oku has opened questions on the dial that far exceed my available time to delve into the many secrets of UG. It's an interesting question, but I won't even comment due to my lack of research. It's clearly not a redial. If someone has gone deep on that particular research, it would be wonderful to document in another thread. Whatever the nuances on the dial, and if it's been swapped with another factory original, it wouldn't put me off a purchase if the price was right.
Good luck to OP, keep us posted. 馃榾
Below is a moonphase disc with face and blue paint intact:
Below is a moonphase disc with face with blue paint faded to brown/gold, as the majority of them all have:
Below is a photo of the disc only, showing how the blue paint fades to gold/brown:
Below is a photo showing a moonphase disc with face with the blue paint in the PROCESS of fading to gold/brown:
Below is a photo of a moonphase disc without face (and correctly so I believe based on serial), the blue paint on faceless discs has not generally faded:
Here is another even later example, also correct with faceless moonphase disc:
As Larry already pointed out, while we don't have an exact serial range nailed down for the transition from face to faceless, the OP example is clearly in a range that should have a face. So it's been replaced. That could be because the paint faded, or perhaps the dial and moonphase were replaced together due to condition issues, it's impossible to know.
My PERSONAL approach to valuation regarding moonphase discs is that I place a premium on original, unfaded blue moonphase discs with face where they are expected by date. Slight less value to faded examples. Slightly less value to faceless examples where face is expected, as in the case of the OP watch.
However, in this particular example, because the dial and case are so clean, I actually prefer the faceless disc, even though not original, because the blue accent really makes things pop. So for me, I would not hesitate to buy this example due to the non original moonphase disc, if I loved the watch otherwise and the price was acceptable. I think the OP example is extremely attractive, I would want to see a movement shot. If the movement is pristine as the rest of the watch, that would be nice. If not, I might wonder a bit how much it's been "prepped", but this still would not put me off if the price was OK. But I will go out on a limb and say that I already suspect the price is probably beyond what I would consider acceptable, FOR ME.
Lastly, @Oku has opened questions on the dial that far exceed my available time to delve into the many secrets of UG. It's an interesting question, but I won't even comment due to my lack of research. It's clearly not a redial. If someone has gone deep on that particular research, it would be wonderful to document in another thread. Whatever the nuances on the dial, and if it's been swapped with another factory original, it wouldn't put me off a purchase if the price was right.
Good luck to OP, keep us posted. 馃榾
