I'm dumbfounded. How in the hell does Seiko pull it off?

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Faz Faz
Hi all,

Finally received my Seiko SKX009 diver. I'm really scratching my head over this one. I paid USD $ 199.99, brand new, warranty, in box and delivered to my door, for a mechanical watch,as accurate as any luxury mechanical, excellent fit and finish, screw down crown, super lume, 200 m certified dive watch on bracelet. I must be dreaming?
...
This Seiko, and I suppose the others in this line, are more than an excellent value, they are an absolute steal. My cherished Sub and GMT-Master now have company with this exceptional timepiece. I am as impressed as I am happy!
I am wearing my new SNZF 'Sea Urchin' today and I agree with your comments for this piece as well. The SKX009 doesn't quite do it for me, but this 'Sea Urchin' sure does! Holding it in my hand next to my Explorer II (I know, not a diver..., but) I would say the two don't feel like they're at the same level, but then the price is so far apart that I have no problem saying the Seiko is an incredible watch from a 'value' perspective.

I paid $147.74 on MassDrop (thanks again to @Jwit ) and another $30.50 for a black leather strap (thanks to @watchdaddy1 ) and for a total of $178.24 (USD) I have a very snazzy looking mechanical watch that I can wear proudly and without fear of damaging it.
 
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I bought a blue (naturally) SNZF53 but had no idea that this might also be known as a 'Sea Urchin', which seems to me to be a really snazzy name, or have I made a mistake?
 
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I have a few decent vintage watches, but none of them can measure my downtime if I go diving...or be as fearless when I am trying to get weeds and grass out of the prop on the boat as my SKX..
 
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Coming to this thread late combined with not reading every post makes me think this might have already been said:

The fit & finish is not very good if you ever scoured most sub-$250 Seiko under magnification. They are utilitarian dreams, but will never give a watchmaker twitterpations. Accuracy is hit or miss too.
 
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If you really want to be shocked by Seiko value, get your hands on an SPB/SBDC053 or 051. My goodness does this watch kick ass. In house movement, regulated at the factory and keeping time within cosc spec. Finish equal to that on my Tudors and Omegas in every way, and a much more thoughtfully designed case both in form and function. Unbelievable watch for $600 shipped from japan.
 
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@Laharrier - Is that a blue bakelite bezel? 😲

Interestingly, Seiko has some special Seiko process on these things where they lacquer over a stainless steel insert. I think it’s derived from the process the Japanese use to make lacquered wooden boxes. Additionally there is a line of zaratsu polishing on this case that is the same as the “black polishing” technique we see on watches like Lange and Patek. Seiko is really unbelievable in the value sector. This is my first seiko but now I can’t wait to acquire more.
 
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Interestingly, Seiko has some special Seiko process on these things where they lacquer over a stainless steel insert. I think it’s derived from the process the Japanese use to make lacquered wooden boxes. Additionally there is a line of zaratsu polishing on this case that is the same as the “black polishing” technique we see on watches like Lange and Patek. Seiko is really unbelievable in the value sector. This is my first seiko but now I can’t wait to acquire more.

I wish the blue variant came with the bracelet. The way Seiko does that is one oddity that I wish Seiko would do away with.

Beautiful watch, by the way.
 
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Lug width? Case width?

Nevermind - Google is my friend. 42.6 mm wide.
 
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I wish the blue variant came with the bracelet. The way Seiko does that is one oddity that I wish Seiko would do away with.

Beautiful watch, by the way.
I agree! Would love to have the bracelet
 
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I agree! Would love to have the bracelet

I suppose the best solution is to own both the blue and black- dialed versions 😉

Maybe Strapcode will make a compatible one at some point in the near future.
 
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If I ever found a Seiko on my wrist I certainly pull it off pretty damn quick!
 
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Finish equal to that on my Tudors and Omegas in every way, and a much more thoughtfully designed case both in form and function. Unbelievable watch for $600 shipped from japan.

Can I ask what Omegas and Tudors you have to compare this to? I see people on forums talk about "fit and finish" a lot, and I'm always curious to understand what is meant with these terms and how people draw up these comparisons.

If I compare the dial and hands on that watch to a modern Omega, I'd be hard pressed to say they are equal. Here is a blue dialed AT and I selected it rather than a dive watch because it has a blue dial and applied markers. The movement out of the case so you can see the dial and hands. The Seiko dial and hands look decidedly cheap next to the AT:



The sunburst on the dial is very nice, and the markers here are sharp and crisp, with a very high polish, where the Seiko markers are more rounded and vaguely defined. The hands are 3 dimensional rather than flat, and the execution is just much more precise.

Looking at maybe something more in line with the Seiko is this PO - same thing with the movement out of the case:



Markers are of a similar design, but again they are crisper on the Omega, and the hands are certainly much nicer on the Omega in terms of execution.

Certainly for $600 the Seiko appears to be a well made watch, but I'm not sure I would say it rises to the level of matching Omega in the details. Having said that for $600 it would be one I would be happy to own.

Cheers, Al
 
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Can I ask what Omegas and Tudors you have to compare this to? I see people on forums talk about "fit and finish" a lot, and I'm always curious to understand what is meant with these terms and how people draw up these comparisons.

If I compare the dial and hands on that watch to a modern Omega, I'd be hard pressed to say they are equal. Here is a blue dialed AT and I selected it rather than a dive watch because it has a blue dial and applied markers. The movement out of the case so you can see the dial and hands. The Seiko dial and hands look decidedly cheap next to the AT:



The sunburst on the dial is very nice, and the markers here are sharp and crisp, with a very high polish, where the Seiko markers are more rounded and vaguely defined. The hands are 3 dimensional rather than flat, and the execution is just much more precise.

Looking at maybe something more in line with the Seiko is this PO - same thing with the movement out of the case:



Markers are of a similar design, but again they are crisper on the Omega, and the hands are certainly much nicer on the Omega in terms of execution.

Certainly for $600 the Seiko appears to be a well made watch, but I'm not sure I would say it rises to the level of matching Omega in the details. Having said that for $600 it would be one I would be happy to own.

Cheers, Al

In this instance I would really implore you to put in your hands the Seiko I posted, or perhaps one of their new Presage watches, or if youre able a Grand Seiko. I have owned hundreds of watches of varying prestige and expense over the years, and still do to this day, and I am quite certain having held them side by side, that my SBDC pictured in my reply has fit and finish equal to that you'd find on a Planet Ocean many times its price, or a Black Bay. Additionally, Seiko is a vertically integrated manufacturer well beyond many of the prominent Swiss brands, making every piece of their movements, including their hairsprings and mainsprings. Quality control is outstanding, and mechanical performance just as good.

Now this of course isnt true of their lower prices watches like the Seiko 5's and SKX's (which are still GREAT values), but around the $600- $1000 mark Seiko is offering value that just doesnt exist in the rest of the watch world.

Now bring in to consideration the finishing techniques used on Grand Seiko, which can be had for $1500+, and you are talking about fit and finish equal to Swiss watches $10,000+, not to mention Seiko's technology in movements like their high beats and spring drives.

As suggested, you should try to handle and inspect some of the watches Ive mentioned. This is my first Seiko, and I am by no means a longtime fanboy of Seiko. Its taken years for me to come round, but now that I have I see the light.
 
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In this instance I would really implore you to put in your hands the Seiko I posted, or perhaps one of their new Presage watches, or if youre able a Grand Seiko. I have owned hundreds of watches of varying prestige and expense over the years, and still do to this day, and I am quite certain having held them side by side, that my SBDC pictured in my reply has fit and finish equal to that you'd find on a Planet Ocean many times its price, or a Black Bay. Additionally, Seiko is a vertically integrated manufacturer well beyond many of the prominent Swiss brands, making every piece of their movements, including their hairsprings and mainsprings. Quality control is outstanding, and mechanical performance just as good.

Now this of course isnt true of their lower prices watches like the Seiko 5's and SKX's (which are still GREAT values), but around the $600- $1000 mark Seiko is offering value that just doesnt exist in the rest of the watch world.

Now bring in to consideration the finishing techniques used on Grand Seiko, which can be had for $1500+, and you are talking about fit and finish equal to Swiss watches $10,000+, not to mention Seiko's technology in movements like their high beats and spring drives.

As suggested, you should try to handle and inspect some of the watches Ive mentioned. This is my first Seiko, and I am by no means a longtime fanboy of Seiko. Its taken years for me to come round, but now that I have I see the light.

He’s not saying they are junk... just not in the same league as 4-8k Swiss. I’d wager @Archer would concede the Seiko at the 800-1000 range exceed Swiss offerings at the same price.

GS are not in this discussion so far. But that’s another topic and there is a wide range of these. But while exterior finishing may be in a similar league to VC and PP theninterior finishing has nothing on them.
Edited:
 
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He’s not saying they are junk... just not in the same league as 4-8k Swiss. I’d wager @Archer would concede the Seiko at the 800-1000 range exceed Swiss offerings.
Indeed. I am in agreement that the Seiko models in the $100-$300 range aren't hitting at the 4-6k Swiss level. However the $800-$1000 Seiko's most definitely are.
 
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Indeed. I am in agreement that the Seiko models in the $100-$300 range aren't hitting at the 4-6k Swiss level. However the $800-$1000 Seiko's most definitely are.

I strongly disagree and I love Seiko. Dial finishing and hands are not the same league.