ID Watch - is this a 165.024?

Archer

Well, Omega's tolerances for all these calibers are not exactly tight. Measuring over just 3 positions, Omega allows the average daily rate to be from 0 to +18 seconds a day. For positional variation, they allow 30 seconds over 3 positions at full wind, and 40 seconds over 3 position 24 hours after full wind.

Personally, I check every movement over 6 positions, and for these I would be looking to get to less than 1/2 of what Omega allows as a minimum. It really depends on two things...

1 - the condition of the movement

2 - how much you are willing to spend to get accuracy

Cheers, Al

Archer

The movements are the same for the chronometer and non-chronometer movements. The difference is simply in the level of adjustment.

The additional jewels are in the automatic winding system. For the 17 jewel versions, bushings are used, and the in the others jewels are used.

A asdrubalex

Hi all! Finally I am about the get the watch back! It is a 165.024 caliber 552. They asked me if I wanted to polish it for it to look new and I think as per this thread which recommend not to, I said no after a slight hesitation! Is that the correct course of action?

padders

Presumably something with 552 in the name...

Oku

Someone with very little knowledge asks for the correct bracelet and you give him this answer? 🤦

@asdrubalex Without knowing the exact production date, it is difficult to say. There is a chart buried somewhere here in the forum, where production dates and bracelets are listed, but I cannot find it.
Most probably, a 1039 bracelet with 516 endlinks are correct to the watch. But these are quite expensive. So personally, I would stick to some less expensive versions. Others may give some recommendations.

Edit: Chart found: https://omegaforums.net/threads/vintage-speedmaster-bracelet-chart.29051/

bigtriangle68

The bezel looks like a 1966/1967 manufacture.

Omega used tritium during this period. Interestingly, your dial doesn't appear to have "T" markings, indicating tritium, on either side of "Swiss Made." Also of note, your dial doesn't seem to have any patination. If it is authentic, it could be an Omega factory luminova service dial. That would reduce value because collectors of old 300s like the original tritium dial due to the aged look of rotting tritium on luminous material.

Is the crown pulled out in your photo? If not, the crown might be aftermarket (not OEM) and therefore might not offer water resistance.

The bracelet is not original to the watch. Forstner sells bracelets that will fit this watch for a reasonable price. You need 20mm. I like the 1450 Speedmaster bracelet on the 300. The original bracelet would have been a 1039 flat link or 1116. You can also buy an 1171 or Apollo 11 50th flat link bracelet from Omega, but the Omega bracelets will be significantly more expensive than Forstner.

If the watch is original/authentic, you should insure it as these can sell for $10k or more. I don't know for certain if your watch is authentic due to the dial observations I noted above.

Here is a good resource: https://www.omegaseamaster300.com/

If you don't know the service history, I would assume the rubber gaskets and seals are rotted, and I would not let the watch come in contact with any water until you have all the rubber seals/gaskets replaced by a watchmaker and pressure tested. Also make sure that the crown is OEM. Does the crown have an Omega logo on the side? There were two crowns for this model -- a thin Niad crown and a later, longer screw down crown. The Omega long screw down crown was an update to this model that corrected some issues with the earlier Niad crown. The factory Omega long screw down crown for this model should still be available through Omega as a replacement part.

A asdrubalex

I would love it to be water proof again, definitely not diving but perhaps more swimming / showering level