How to find complete Omega spec on my vintage watch

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Can anyone tell me how to contact Omega Vintage Archive to get the complete spec on my watch?
Or perhaps someone here can work this out...
Omega 2902 (c.1956?)
Movement: Cal.284 17J
Internal number 15328766
 
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In addition to the information you've already found 馃榾thumbsup馃榾, the only other bits will be a more accurate production date, and where the watch was delivered.
Not sure paying for an extract is worth that.
 
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Nice looking mid to late Omega. ( actually very nice 馃憤 )

As Jim says you know the model, cal and serial number.

Just strap it on and enjoy it. $150 just to find out where it was delivered to would be a decent strap you are missing out on.
 
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Thank you very much for your advice. I've just bought this for my husband for our 15th wedding anniversary. (Couldn't afford it for our 10th, 馃檨) I probably paid a bit more for it but as I'm not an expert I felt it was worth buying from a very reputable dealer and having complete servicing with warranty and liability assurances. As I learn more about vintage Omegas I will no doubt start carefully collecting over time. My next search will probably be for a nice 1960's Constellation or Seamaster.

Thanks again for all your help and candid advice.
 
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The dial has been restored, hardcore collectors are sniffy about that, but the seller declared it as such I note. It looks good.
 
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That's quite a good point. It's best if any restoration work is declared and undisguised. As a bookbinder I do quite a lot of restoration work on antiquarian and heritage volumes. Also, we live in a (slightly decrepit) Grade II listed hovel (I mean house) so we've had to do a lot of heritage diy. As long as the restoration is sympathetically done to a very high professional standard and in keeping with the original, I'm in favour of it rather than letting an otherwise beautiful item deteriorate for want of care and attention.
Going forward, my next search for a vintage Constellation or Seamaster will have to be especially careful as it seems these models have a lot of frankenising and outright counterfeiting. Any advice on this? Many thanks!