How fragile is the 1039 bracelet really?

[wagudc]

I have been looking for a bracelet for my -69 Speedmaster and had decided on the 1175, but I am beginning to have second thoughts. People say the 1039 is less robust than the 1175, and based on the many mangled examples of 1039s that I have seen, I suspect this is true. But how fragile is the 1039 really? What do you do when the springs wear out? Is there any special advice for maintaining them? Are they good for regular wear? Would love to hear you all's experience. Thanks!

 

[Davidt]

I don’t think the 1039’s fragile at all. It seems very wel engineered and robust to me, but it lightness gives the impression of fragility. I’d wager 95% of people who claim the 1039 is fragile have never had one break, it’s simply their perception.

Much of the historic damage observed in flat link bracelets is down to how tricky it is to resize them imo, with no removable links, people resorted to prying them open with fleet head screwdrivers.

I’ve had multiple full length 1039’s, some of which I wear/wore frequently and have never had an issue

 

[masteroftime]

I think the 1039 is less robust, but both bracelets have their weaknesses. But like David, I don't think it is fragile. it is a simple and well designed bracelet, but it is light. These days light=low quality in people's minds.

IMHO, the biggest weak point are the springs links. Changing the spring links can be annoying, but you get used to them. There are replacement springs available online that solves the worn spring issue.

I think you just need to take care of them like you take care of any bracelet. Keep it clean and don't abuse it. The less you use the springs, the less likely they will be worn.

 

[gbesq]

The 1039/516 tends to be very expensive on the secondary market compared to the 1175 and very few examples that are available are in top condition. The springs on the 1039 are prone to wearing out and are a pain to change if you haven't done it before. If you don't want to change them, then you have to pay a watchmaker to do it. I wouldn't call the 1039 flimsy, but the links are thinner and lighter than those on the 1175. Other than price, perhaps the biggest advantage of the 1175 over the 1039 is that Swatch/Omega still makes the 640 end links so you can buy a used 1175 without the end links if necessary and not worry about whether you'll be able to find the correct end links for it. If you need one or both 516 end links for the 1039, good luck finding them and you're going to pay through the nose if you do. Here's my '69 Straight Writing on its 1175 -- it's a nice look:

 

[spacemission]

The 1039 bracelet is much more confortable than the oyster, jubilee, etc. from back then but adjusting is a delicate operation. Right now the prices of the 1039 are through the roof and simply not worth it. There are other bracelets out there with better price/quality. The 1039s that are well worn are extended/enlarged, so I wouldn't say they are robust.

 

[hen]

What does the springs do? Is it like a fixoflex bracelet?

 

[kaplan]

hen

What does the springs do? Is it like a fixoflex bracelet?

Each flex link has an independent spring to flex

The cost to wear it would likely be $0.1-$1/day - I think closer to $0.1 - definitely not $1 - when you simplify it like this maybe you can more easily wear it

 

[dsio]

Ive never had one fail on me, but bought plenty that have wonky or near failed springs off other people. I find them more annoying from a hair pulling perspective and the fact that they sit rather oddly on the wrist when they’re in original condition as the spring tension is so high that the flex links stand in a line rather that curving.

 

[hen]

kaplan

Each flex link has an independent spring to flex

The cost to wear it would likely be $0.1-$1/day - I think closer to $0.1 - definitely not $1 - when you simplify it like this maybe you can more easily wear it

I see, light bracelet + multiple failing point(springs) = reputation for being fragile.

I remember the flex bracelet from my father, grand father and uncles watches from the late 60`s and early 70`s, certainly period correct.

 

[Davidt]

Don’t forget, from an engineering perspective, light and strong is better than heavy and strong. Modern bracelets are hugely over engineered to give the consumer the impression of quality imo.

 

[wagudc]

Thanks everyone, I really appreciate the feedback. I'm a fan of lightweight vintage bracelets, but some of the comments on sizing and dealing with spring replacements give me pause. I would be hesitant to do any work myself because of the value of the bracelet and my tendency to bugger things up. Unfortunately, I don't have a watchmaker nearby to drop in on. I have a smaller wrist so sizing a bracelet down can be an issue. To size a late 70s 1171, I had to take out all the removable links and use the second to last micro-adjust on the clasp. My wrist is a bit over 6.5" (16.5cm). I suspect it may be a challenge to make a 1039 small enough. I assume this wouldn't be an issue with an 1175, because it has removable links with springbars but please correct me if I am wrong.

Finding a correct bracelet is part of a journey to restore the watch to originality. I have fuzzy pictures of the original bracelet, see https://omegaforums.net/threads/which-moonwatch-bracelet-is-this.155479/
There is no consensus, but I am leaning towards the original being a 1039. Feel free to weigh in on that thread.

 

[pdxleaf]

gbesq

...Other than price, perhaps the biggest advantage of the 1175 over the 1039 is that Swatch/Omega still makes the 640 end links so you can buy a used 1175 without the end links if necessary and not worry about whether you'll be able to find the correct end links for it....

While this is true, note that the new EL have the number 640 etched on them whereas the original have the 640 engraved.

 

[gbesq]

pdxleaf

While this is true, note that the new EL have the number 640 etched on them whereas the original have the 640 engraved.

Yes, I’m aware of that as I have had more than one 1175 bracelet and had to buy the new 640s for one of them. The fit and the outward appearance between the old 640s and the new 640s is identical. A pair is about $70-$100 depending upon tax and shipping. Compare that to a pair of 516’s for a 1039 - currently there are two sets for sale on eBay’s USA site priced at $923 and $1,000, respectively.

 

[masteroftime]

pdxleaf

While this is true, note that the new EL have the number 640 etched on them whereas the original have the 640 engraved.

Also, didn't the oldest 1175s come with 47 endlinks? I see 47s most often on watches from the early 70's. I wasn't sure if this was a US market quirk. That being said, 47s and 640s look identical to me.

 

[masteroftime]

wagudc

Finding a correct bracelet is part of a journey to restore the watch to originality. I have fuzzy pictures of the original bracelet, see https://omegaforums.net/threads/which-moonwatch-bracelet-is-this.155479/
There is no consensus, but I am leaning towards the original being a 1039. Feel free to weigh in on that thread.

This photo makes me think it was a 1039:



1039s have a habit of developing a little bit of flex on the center links. I think you can see some of that in this photo form the way the light hits and bounces off of the link. 1175s are thicker and don't usually have that. Plus the center brushing.

 

[pdxleaf]

gbesq

Yes, I’m aware of that as I have had more than one 1175 bracelet and had to buy the new 640s for one of them. The fit and the outward appearance between the old 640s and the new 640s is identical. A pair is about $70-$100 depending upon tax and shipping. Compare that to a pair of 516’s for a 1039 - currently there are two sets for sale on eBay’s USA site priced at $923 and $1,000, respectively.

This was intended for the general audience.

 

[pdxleaf]

masteroftime

Also, didn't the oldest 1175s come with 47 endlinks? I see 47s most often on watches from the early 70's. I wasn't sure if this was a US market quirk. That being said, 47s and 640s look identical to me.

Here's a thread that discusses 1175 end links.

https://omegaforums.net/threads/1175-bracelet-which-endlinks-to-pair-w-sm300.47085/

Like gbseq, I am a big fan of 1175s because they look vintage but are one of the most inexpensive to buy used, not to mention strong.

1039 stretch is very nice for wearing, if you are fortunate to buy a watch that came with one.

 

[wagudc]

masteroftime

This photo makes me think it was a 1039:



1039s have a habit of developing a little bit of flex on the center links. I think you can see some of that in this photo form the way the light hits and bounces off of the link. 1175s are thicker and don't usually have that. Plus the center brushing.

The appearance of the brushed and polished links in this photo made me think it was a 1039. Interesting observation on the center link flex you had.

 

[gbesq]

pdxleaf

This was intended for the general audience.

Sorry if I misinterpreted that. It's useful information and it's appreciated. Thanks.

 

[pdxleaf]

gbesq

Sorry if I misinterpreted that. It's useful information and it's appreciated. Thanks.

No worries. I appreciate your love of the 1175 and have learned a lot from you. I will however hold you to blame if the prices explode.