Having been thinking about how my perspectives of watches brands have evolved as I moved from someone with a causal interest to a more engaged collector. I still believe in the philosophy that u should buy what u like irrespective of the perceived value of brand, even though now I possess a more developed (marketing influenced) understanding of the specifics behind different watch styles and makes.
I got into watches initially indirectly through the interest of a colleague and then had an actual need to purchase a new watch as my old standby Baume Mercier (which I bought on overstock.com for $1K five years ago) needed a new rubber strap. It was a sporty chronometer type piece that also was automatic self-winding. It was serviced once when one of the hands of the chronometer came loose (was using it to time exercise sets on a daily basis) but otherwise it worked well.
I had a conference in Vegas and so this was a perfect opportunity to see what was available. Like 95% of all Americans, I had the generic impression that Rolex was the best. I also knew about Omega because I enjoyed astronomy as a kid and of course everybody knows James Bond wears Omega.
I first looked at the Milguass Rolex with the blue sapphire face; it looked sleek in pictures but in real life was simply to small. Also in comparing to Omega, the anti-magnetic properties were actually quite lackluster. The Submariner in black/steel looked sharp but the cyclops date was a bit odd. The sky-dweller with black face and white gold really caught my attention. I liked the red signal indicator but I began to think the fluted dial would be too blingy and perhaps look dated with time.
Looked at a couple of places that carried Omega, but besides the Darkside of the Moon (this was when there was only a single version--kinda of seems quaint now) nothing really captured my attention. At the Bellagio Omega boutique, they happened to have a single
Aventurine Speedmaster (has a moon phase complication) in the display case. Wow that stopped me in my tracks. I knew in that instant that this watch was for me. Did not like the price, but after researching online for about 24 hours before purchasing, I discovered it was uncommon and essentially discontinued. Could not get them to budge on price, but they did give me a bonus stainless steel watch band.
So the Aventurine Speedmaster was it for me for about 9 months. The lack of an auto-wind was a bit of drag, but otherwise it kept good time and the moon display was accurate, although it was somewhat hard to resync if the watch ran down.
Next Vegas trip was soon thereafter and I had decided at this point that I "needed" a dress watch. I do like moon phase complications and hoped to find something that included this; my original thoughts with weak preconceptions and no clear idea of price points:
Phillipe Patek -- they did have many moon phase complications. A lot of the designs looked liked they were designed for the elderly living in the 1800s. Lots of interlocking circles. I thought the Nautilus and Aquanet had a very 70's tv retro shape/vibe even though the salesman told me they were sporty. I did like the 5205 but when the time is on the half hour it looks like jumbled spaghetti display. The watches were expensive. I was surprised when the staff told me many thought it was the best brand in the world.
JLC -- also had moon phase complications. Seemed to be a lower priced version of Patek. Designs very similar. Do get more for your $ in terms of additional complications. Otherwise did not seem distinctive or unique.
IWC -- visceral negative reaction to the name especially after seeing the prices. Reminded me of HSN or QVC. Hard to believe a top tier watch maker would have the generic sounding moniker 'international watch company'. Some of the Big Pilot series had a dual moon phase and blue color face which was quite modern, but the size of the watch was pushing it. A lot of the other designs reminded me of Patek.
Arnold & Son. If u want the cartoon literal moon phase complication interpretation and maybe do not care about knowing what time it is. Stylistically a complete no go for me.
Audemars Piguet -- no moon phase display; that being said, I did like the Royal Oak Offshore with a black face; expensive even in the stainless steel version.
Hubulot -- I liked the entry Classic Fusion with black face and stainless steel. It seemed to me to be a cheaper version of the AP Royal Oak with many shared stylistic features. There were also many other versions that looked schizophrenic.
Richard Mille -- ok from the window I knew there was not a chance in hell they would have a watch with a moon phase. I also did not expect that many of these watches that look like they were assembled with junkyard parts run around 100k.
Lange -- now this was a surprise. Smaller boutique store located in the Wynn shopping area. Carried multiple models with moon phases complications but the design aesthetic was more clean. A bit wigged out that the watches were German and not Swiss made. Price was quite demoralizing especially for the Lange 1 Grand Moonphase which I liked the best.
Breguet -- two different experiences. The boutique in the Bellagio had a very Marie Antoinnette feel and I felt a bit out of place in my gap T-shirt and Target cargo shorts initially. The sales staff however was excellent in introducing me to the brand and gave me a cool coffee table type book. Many of the designs were quite formal and the moon phase complications were similar to Patek, although the engraving of the face was more complex and in general had a lighter feel. I do think it helped a bit when I told them I was interested in Lange watches in terms of them paying attention to me. You would never in a million years think that Swatch owns both Omega and Breguet. Had a more relaxed experience at the Wynn Watchstore which has many Breguet models; the salesperson introduced me to the marine line and although no moon phase, it is a great a mix of sporty and elegant, although I would later learn to some brand purists that this was basically blasphemy. Again the price was unfortunate to say the least of the 5823 model that I liked.
Glashutte -- very Lange like but simpler and less expensive. I kinda think it parallels JLC for German style watches.
Panerai -- simple designs; elementary school fonts; very big sizes. Overall did nothing for me.
Ulysee Nardin -- massive naval themes on steroids. I really did not understand the point. Does not seem in any way relevant and I have no idea who would want to buy these watches.
Gigard Perregaux -- large selection at the Aria. Liked the traveler large date moon phase; the moon phase complication design is very similar to the one featured on the new Omega Speedmaster. It was interesting that this was the first watch that I really liked, but after seeing everything else did not feel the price was justified after comparing to other brands. Shows the effect of anchoring in driving relative comparisons between products.
Bottomline:
Brands are more often a function of a predetermined business price point than distinctiveness or technical innovation, although marketing and media messengers will attempt to convince you otherwise.
Getting discounts at boutique stores is difficult (near impossible) for a first time buyer to the brand. Look to trusted sellers or a flexible AD to get what u want at the best price.
There is a built momentum in so-called popular brands that is very much self reinforcing; accordingly your preferences will not be derived in a vacuum. I do believe u will be the most satisfied if u buy (at a good price) what u like and let others quibble about which brand is the best or most prestigious. If you intend to resell a watch, then knowing what is the 'right' choice is very important, but in general watches are not a great investment and there are certainly demand bubbles that can crash a brand. Over the long term, some of these brands may not be viable given the degree of stylistic overlap and subsequent cannibalization of overall the market by smart watches, so again buy what u truly like and not what u think u are expected to like.
