Having been thinking about how my perspectives of watches brands have evolved as I moved from someone with a causal interest to a more engaged collector. I still believe in the philosophy that u should buy what u like irrespective of the perceived value of brand, even though now I possess a more developed (marketing influenced) understanding of the specifics behind different watch styles and makes.

I got into watches initially indirectly through the interest of a colleague and then had an actual need to purchase a new watch as my old standby Baume Mercier (which I bought on overstock.com for $1K five years ago) needed a new rubber strap. It was a sporty chronometer type piece that also was automatic self-winding. It was serviced once when one of the hands of the chronometer came loose (was using it to time exercise sets on a daily basis) but otherwise it worked well.

I had a conference in Vegas and so this was a perfect opportunity to see what was available. Like 95% of all Americans, I had the generic impression that Rolex was the best. I also knew about Omega because I enjoyed astronomy as a kid and of course everybody knows James Bond wears Omega.

I first looked at the Milguass Rolex with the blue sapphire face; it looked sleek in pictures but in real life was simply to small. Also in comparing to Omega, the anti-magnetic properties were actually quite lackluster. The Submariner in black/steel looked sharp but the cyclops date was a bit odd. The sky-dweller with black face and white gold really caught my attention. I liked the red signal indicator but I began to think the fluted dial would be too blingy and perhaps look dated with time.

Looked at a couple of places that carried Omega, but besides the Darkside of the Moon (this was when there was only a single version--kinda of seems quaint now) nothing really captured my attention. At the Bellagio Omega boutique, they happened to have a single Aventurine Speedmaster (has a moon phase complication) in the display case. Wow that stopped me in my tracks. I knew in that instant that this watch was for me. Did not like the price, but after researching online for about 24 hours before purchasing, I discovered it was uncommon and essentially discontinued. Could not get them to budge on price, but they did give me a bonus stainless steel watch band.

So the Aventurine Speedmaster was it for me for about 9 months. The lack of an auto-wind was a bit of drag, but otherwise it kept good time and the moon display was accurate, although it was somewhat hard to resync if the watch ran down.

Next Vegas trip was soon thereafter and I had decided at this point that I "needed" a dress watch. I do like moon phase complications and hoped to find something that included this; my original thoughts with weak preconceptions and no clear idea of price points:

Phillipe Patek -- they did have many moon phase complications. A lot of the designs looked liked they were designed for the elderly living in the 1800s. Lots of interlocking circles. I thought the Nautilus and Aquanet had a very 70's tv retro shape/vibe even though the salesman told me they were sporty. I did like the 5205 but when the time is on the half hour it looks like jumbled spaghetti display. The watches were expensive. I was surprised when the staff told me many thought it was the best brand in the world.

JLC -- also had moon phase complications. Seemed to be a lower priced version of Patek. Designs very similar. Do get more for your $ in terms of additional complications. Otherwise did not seem distinctive or unique.

IWC -- visceral negative reaction to the name especially after seeing the prices. Reminded me of HSN or QVC. Hard to believe a top tier watch maker would have the generic sounding moniker 'international watch company'. Some of the Big Pilot series had a dual moon phase and blue color face which was quite modern, but the size of the watch was pushing it. A lot of the other designs reminded me of Patek.

Arnold & Son. If u want the cartoon literal moon phase complication interpretation and maybe do not care about knowing what time it is. Stylistically a complete no go for me.

Audemars Piguet -- no moon phase display; that being said, I did like the Royal Oak Offshore with a black face; expensive even in the stainless steel version.

Hubulot -- I liked the entry Classic Fusion with black face and stainless steel. It seemed to me to be a cheaper version of the AP Royal Oak with many shared stylistic features. There were also many other versions that looked schizophrenic.

Richard Mille -- ok from the window I knew there was not a chance in hell they would have a watch with a moon phase. I also did not expect that many of these watches that look like they were assembled with junkyard parts run around 100k.

Lange -- now this was a surprise. Smaller boutique store located in the Wynn shopping area. Carried multiple models with moon phases complications but the design aesthetic was more clean. A bit wigged out that the watches were German and not Swiss made. Price was quite demoralizing especially for the Lange 1 Grand Moonphase which I liked the best.

Breguet -- two different experiences. The boutique in the Bellagio had a very Marie Antoinnette feel and I felt a bit out of place in my gap T-shirt and Target cargo shorts initially. The sales staff however was excellent in introducing me to the brand and gave me a cool coffee table type book. Many of the designs were quite formal and the moon phase complications were similar to Patek, although the engraving of the face was more complex and in general had a lighter feel. I do think it helped a bit when I told them I was interested in Lange watches in terms of them paying attention to me. You would never in a million years think that Swatch owns both Omega and Breguet. Had a more relaxed experience at the Wynn Watchstore which has many Breguet models; the salesperson introduced me to the marine line and although no moon phase, it is a great a mix of sporty and elegant, although I would later learn to some brand purists that this was basically blasphemy. Again the price was unfortunate to say the least of the 5823 model that I liked.

Glashutte -- very Lange like but simpler and less expensive. I kinda think it parallels JLC for German style watches.

Panerai -- simple designs; elementary school fonts; very big sizes. Overall did nothing for me.

Ulysee Nardin -- massive naval themes on steroids. I really did not understand the point. Does not seem in any way relevant and I have no idea who would want to buy these watches.

Gigard Perregaux -- large selection at the Aria. Liked the traveler large date moon phase; the moon phase complication design is very similar to the one featured on the new Omega Speedmaster. It was interesting that this was the first watch that I really liked, but after seeing everything else did not feel the price was justified after comparing to other brands. Shows the effect of anchoring in driving relative comparisons between products.

Bottomline:

Brands are more often a function of a predetermined business price point than distinctiveness or technical innovation, although marketing and media messengers will attempt to convince you otherwise.

Getting discounts at boutique stores is difficult (near impossible) for a first time buyer to the brand. Look to trusted sellers or a flexible AD to get what u want at the best price.

There is a built momentum in so-called popular brands that is very much self reinforcing; accordingly your preferences will not be derived in a vacuum. I do believe u will be the most satisfied if u buy (at a good price) what u like and let others quibble about which brand is the best or most prestigious. If you intend to resell a watch, then knowing what is the 'right' choice is very important, but in general watches are not a great investment and there are certainly demand bubbles that can crash a brand. Over the long term, some of these brands may not be viable given the degree of stylistic overlap and subsequent cannibalization of overall the market by smart watches, so again buy what u truly like and not what u think u are expected to like.

 

Long, but packed with honesty. I like how you admitted you're influenced by advertising. All of us are to some extent! Even if you buy under-the-radar brands that just means you're influenced by advertising by being averse to it.

By the way, Bond used to wear Rolex as he did in the books.

I like this:

"needed" - ha! Luv it! You're definitely one of us now.

Agree on Lange being the brand to look at, and anything coming from Germany is the latest and greatest so to speak. Audemars Piguet does have moon phase watches, and I like them and GP. If you want to go IWC, go vintage and simple. There are a LOT of forum members who dig their simplistic dress watch designs from the 40's into the 70's.

Oh, and the other members will get a kick out of this..... despite Richard Mille being just about everything I rail against, I freakin' dig their watches. If I hit the lottery, the second or third watch I buy (after a Breguet 5197BB and a Lange Saxonia of some sort) will be an RM.

Breguet 5197BB:




Richard Mille on my wrist at a show in NYC years ago - fit like it was custom made for my wrist.

 

..."There were also many other versions that looked schizophrenic"..... the line I enjoyed the best!

..."so again buy what u truly like and not what u think u are expected to like".... good advice! or as others have said "not what u think others are expected to like"...

..IWC...A favorite brand of mine and I don't get too worked up by the acronym/name.....

vintage..


modern...

 

Thanks for such a detailed write up of your experiences in Vegas. Living here myself, I know that there is more watch porn to look at here than almost anywhere else in the world and it can be quite over whelming sometimes. I am correct in reading that you did not buy a second watch on your most recent trip and still only have the Speedmaster?

 

Wow interesting post. I think remaining objective when evaluating a watch (not considering the brand recognition/popularity) is very difficult for most of us who have been exposed to many of these brands for longer.

Controversial they may be, I found myself agreeing with most of your first impressions. Particularly Rolex, AP, Parek and Panerai.

Regardinf IWC, I found myself thinking "huh I guess that is a pretty generic name." Now I'm going to think that any time I see them.

I would be curious what your first impression of some other brands would be like Breitling, Vacheron, and TAG Heuer

 

Love Lange, ....
Have you looked Journe
Be interested on your thoughts

 

If you want a moonphase you would do well to look at the Ochs und Junior, probably the most accurate Moonphase complication currently in production. It will predict the moon phase correctly for 3,478.27 years before it is off by 1 day.



Production limited to 50 per year. Ordering at the factory is done via a face to face meeting with the owner of the company to work out the specifics of the watch to be produced.

 

Thanks for the nice write up of you impressions. I fully agree with you regarding buy what you like and not what you are expected to like. I had to google the Aventurine Speedmaster, and assume that yours is the watch in your avatar. That dial is gorgeous!

 

IWC calls itself "international' because it was founded by American that went to Switzerland to begin watchmaking business.

You should love it.

 

Which is moot since it will all be taken apart in 5 years when it's serviced...

 

That's what I always think about perpetual calendar complication which brags 100 or 200 years without setting the date again.

 

This is a great line and very true in my books.

A few months ago I convinced my wife it was time for me to get a nice watch. I told her it would cost $10k. After she got over the shock of this price-point (helped by my pointing out how this was less than half what I paid for her ring...), this initial "anchor" made it easy to justify my new horological timepiece when I negotiated a price of < $9k with all taxes included.

 

I have limited personal experience having owned very few watches. I'm sure I was inadvertently affected by marketing, although I have always been someone who goes for the best perceived product at a price-point I can afford. I suspect this is similar with many others. As a result, my watches have increased in value as my salary and overall financial position have improved over the years.

I believe this to be true, although growing up I was never aware of what watches others would wear. I also didn't learn about fine timepieces from my father. For me, I did some basic research into mechanical watches a few years ago when I first decided to purchase one. I only joined Watch Forums after I made my first purchase of a recognized "premium" brand.

 

My first watch ever purchased >$100 was a Quartz Bulova Marine Star. I knew very little about watch brands at the time, but I had been working for a few years and felt ready to buy what was then an "expensive" watch for me. I checked many Jewelry/Retail shops and settled on the Marine Star. I seem to recall it costing around $350 which for me felt like a substantial amount of money. I hoped this would be a quality timepiece that would last many years. Unfortunately, I had many problems from early on. The pins holding the bracelet on broke often requiring many trips to the jeweler to repair (I had no knowledge then that this could easily be done by myself with the right tools). Within 2 years, the battery died and within 6 months of replacing the battery the watch stopped altogether. It hasn't moved since.

This left me with a very negative view of "quality" or "expensive" watches. Little did I know then that the name Bulova isn't even muttered amongts watch afficienados. Needless to say, I decided I would rather rely on my mobile phone to tell time and so didn't purchase another watch for many years.

 

Eventually, I decided I really needed/preferred to have a watch on my wrist and so I picked up a simple and inexpensive Seiko Quartz from the local Costco. I paid maybe $100 for it and it has been very reliable ever since I bought it.

After wearing this watch for many years and realizing the reliabilty of my Bulova was either a fluke or was specific to that brand, I began wanting to have something on my wrist that I could be proud of. I also began feeling that ~38mm was a little small for my wrist.

 

When I began researching watches (via web searches only - no forum comments), I discovered that mechanical watches were considered more of a "real" watch than my Quartz pieces. After a lot of searching for "Best mechanical watch under $2000", I came to a short-list of either a Tag Carrera, A Hamilton Jazzmaster or a Tissot Visodate (visually much like the Carrera to me). I eventually decided that I preferred to get both the Hamilton and Tissot rather than 1 Tag.

 

After a few years of owning the Hamilton and Tissot, I began longing for another watch that would have a GMT function. I finally settled on the Rolex Explorer II and have had it now for about 6 months. I am very happy with it and am now realizing just how addictive this hobby of watch collecting can be. I am still somewhat in denial "... me? No, I'm not a collector. I only need 1 more watch to fill a void, but that is the LAST one I'll ever buy... really!..."

 

I agree with this statement for the most part, although my personal experience at certain "low" price-points would suggest there might be a minimum level where this becomes true. The reason for my multiple posts above was to give some background to my experience and explain a little how I steadily increased the price-point at which I was buying watches. In the <$500 Quartz, I would say a reputable brand known for reliability is key (Seiko is a good one from my experience). In the <$1000 mechanical, I would say these look great but might not be as robust or reliable as some other brands in the >$2000 price point. My Tissot has been back to the Jeweler twice to have crown/stem put back in place. My ~$7000 Rolex feels much more robust than my previous ~$500 mechanicals and it has a much better power reserve.

 

Rrrrrrrriiiiiigggggghhhhhhhtttttttt.