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deltasleep
·Still definitely buy it
Help identify speedmaster
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Dan S
·You think? So good price despite the wrong case or dial?
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deltasleep
·It depends what you mean by a good price. You could probably make a profit if you took it apart and sold the parts.
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Dan S
·I guess it was a good price if it had the right case. But is it still a good price now that it has a different case?
And even if you manage to assemble something that resembles an original watch, it will not be original, just something put together from parts. If you want something collectible, buy something collectible.
This watch would be good to sell as parts, or to wear if you don't care about originality.
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Davidt
·I guess it was a good price if it had the right case. But is it still a good price now that it has a different case?
This is the issue with a few pictures and no further details. Is it the case that’s been swapped or the dial? I’d say the dial, but we don’t know.
The dial, case, movement serial and caseback are all specific to each of the two references this could be.
The movement serial and inside caseback will help shed further light but I’d say it’s not a watch for a novice.
If I was looking for a $5k Speedmaster for someone who’s not familiar with vintage Omega I’d be trying to find a nice correct 70’s or 80’s example.
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Davidt
·If you want a straight answer, if you view it and the dial is clean, with the white specs either dust or marks on the crystal, buy it.
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Aludic
··@SpeedyBirthYearIf you want a straight answer, if you view it and the dial is clean, with the white specs either dust or marks on the crystal, buy it.
Agree fully. And let's not forget that the parts value, especially considering a very good DON bezel and including the flat link bracelet and 516 end links is likely well above the 5k. Assuming the movement is legit Speedmaster and in reasonable condition, that is.
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deltasleep
·This is the issue with a few pictures and no further details. Is it the case that’s been swapped or the dial? I’d say the dial, but we don’t know.
The dial, case, movement serial and caseback are all specific to each of the two references this could be.
The movement serial and inside caseback will help shed further light but I’d say it’s not a watch for a novice.
If I was looking for a $5k Speedmaster for someone who’s not familiar with vintage Omega I’d be trying to find a nice correct 70’s or 80’s example.
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deltasleep
·Agree fully. And let's not forget that the parts value, especially considering a very good DON bezel and including the flat link bracelet and 516 end links is likely well above the 5k. Assuming the movement is legit Speedmaster and in reasonable condition, that is.
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Dan S
·How do I tell if movement is legit speedmaster?
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deltasleep
·You cannot tell. Only Omega knows, and they aren't providing that information currently.
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Aludic
··@SpeedyBirthYearYou cannot tell. Only Omega knows, and they aren't providing that information currently.
Well, you cannot tell with 100% certainty, there are serial ranges that are very likely to be legit for Speedmasters and others that are almost certainly not. It's not entirely impossible to take an educated guess. Unfortunately, it's not just one magic rule that provides the insight, though. IlovemySpeedmaster might help as a starting point.
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Davidt
·Oh ok damn
But if you post the serial here or research on speedmaster101 and ilovemyspeedmaster, it’ll give you an idea.
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SOG53
·This seems like a 5K gamble for a novice with virtually no knowledge base to make a decision on the spot. I agree with Davidt recommendation to find an original later model to wear and enjoy- this is a project for those in the know not for a beginner IMO
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harrymai86
·I will still buy it. Finding the right Pro dial will be quite the hunt. Maybe some members here will have the right dial to trade for that Non pro dial.
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deltasleep
·I will still buy it. Finding the right Pro dial will be quite the hunt. Maybe some members here will have the right dial to trade for that Non pro dial.
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kingsrider
·You can offer less due to the dial irregularity. Negotiation is usually part of the process.
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Dan S
·I will still buy it. Finding the right Pro dial will be quite the hunt. Maybe some members here will have the right dial to trade for that Non pro dial.
What if the movement is in the right range for a 105-003? Will you still replace the dial? Or will you try to find a straight-lug case? I don't see any reason not to buy it if you don't mind a project, but you will have to be patient and understand that you have a lot to learn. If you act impulsively without the necessary knowledge or information, you could just make things worse by separating the parts that actually go together.
IMO, the best thing to do with that watch is to part it out and buy an all-original example with the proceeds. New collectors often get too enamored with the idea of "restoring" incorrect watches. I was guilty of this myself years ago, and now regret it, because those watches never give me joy.
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deltasleep
·You can offer less due to the dial irregularity. Negotiation is usually part of the process.
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deltasleep
·What if the movement is in the right range for a 105-003? Will you still replace the dial? Or will you try to find a straight-lug case? I don't see any reason not to buy it if you don't mind a project, but you will have to be patient and understand that you have a lot to learn. If you act impulsively without the necessary knowledge or information, you could just make things worse by separating the parts that actually go together.
IMO, the best thing to do with that watch is to part it out and buy an all-original example with the proceeds. New collectors often get too enamored with the idea of "restoring" incorrect watches. I was guilty of this myself years ago, and now regret it, because those watches never give me joy.
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