For the Hi-Fi enthusiasts among us...

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They sit on sound isolated sand filled stands. their bigger CM10 siblings handle 2 channel duties in the main room.
When the CM series came out I was totally thrilled. They were truly a value proposition from B&W but beautifully built and finished under $2k for the towers and under $1k for the bookshelf. I trialed them against the Quad 22l2 series at the time (same price point) and went with the Qauds (which my parents have now), but they left an impression.
That price point ($1k bookshelf, $2k tower) is incredibly important for these companies and they know it- it’s not entry level, but not audio-snob territory. It’s usually the range where previous generation top end tech trickles down when the new top end ones get the fanciest revelations.
Edited:
 
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The best values in older B&W are the matrix and diamond series on the used market. They aren’t old enough to be “legendary” but new enough that they don’t suffer the age related maladies of 70’s-80’s era speakers. A friend of mine just got a pair of Matrix 804’s for $400 in cherry cabinets- that’s a fυcking steal for the quality of sound you get. Only caveat with the Matrix series is the top mounted tweeters had a plastic mount and they can snap off easily- and I don’t think the part if available from B&W anymore so verify the tweeters are still attached and or glued back on (and if they have been glued then if it was done well)
 
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When the CM series came out I was totally thrilled. They were truly a value proposition from B&W but beautifully built and finished under $2k for the towers and under $1k for the bookshelf. I trialed them against the Quad 22l2 series at the time (same price point) and went with the Qauds (which my parents have now), but they left an impression.
That price point ($1k bookshelf, $2k tower) is incredibly important for these companies and they know it- it’s not entry level, but not audio-snob territory. It’s usually the range where previous generation top end tech trickles down when the new top end ones get the fanciest revelations.
When I got into them, the cm5 were $1500 pair and the CM10 were $2000 each ( I traded up from CM8) … the CM 10s just blossomed with last summer’s XLR connected Rotel separates (200wpc) change. No plans to go further up the B&W line. The CM 5 are now powered by the Denon 2800 95w per channel and their main job these days is AV but I can stream via HEOS and I have a 900 series Denon CD deck connected. They and my sub can rock.
 
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Any splits or holes in the outside foam, rubber or flexible hinge mean they need repair.
If the outer hinge (annulus) is damaged either ripped or just plain disintegrating you will hear it as a flapping or buzzing sound more so at certain frequencies.
Visually it's quite easy to see a damaged outer hinge with out listening to it.
Yep...

 
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cool, Larry, where can I buy these stands?
You’d need to look around locally. I bought these 20+ years ago. I don’t remember the maker and the internet retailer seems to have gone under. Lots of options out there but I strongly suggest spending well on stands. I think these were $300 back in 2002.
 
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Yep...

And … you just never know what damage has been done to voice coils and electronics. Regardless, when shopping used speakers, a multimeter is your friend.
 
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And … you just never know what damage has been done to voice coils and electronics. Regardless, when shopping used speakers, a multimeter is your friend.
In this case the damage is to the passive radiator...only driven by air.
 
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Yep...

Totally worth fixing those if you haven’t already. The passive radiators like those were usually off the shelf parts and may be able to find a replacement set on the cheap on eBay (I assume you have already looked).
I had a set of early 70’s Kef’s (now with my boss) that were a passive radiator design and their imaging was insane. They can sound tubby in the bass with a tube or lower power SS amp, but when I had them on a Bryston they were tight as hell.
 
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Totally worth fixing those if you haven’t already. The passive radiators like those were usually off the shelf parts and may be able to find a replacement set on the cheap on eBay (I assume you have already looked).
I had a set of early 70’s Kef’s (now with my boss) that were a passive radiator design and their imaging was insane. They can sound tubby in the bass with a tube or lower power SS amp, but when I had them on a Bryston they were tight as hell.
Yeah - already done. I emailed PSB and they actually had 2 left!
 
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All this digital talk got me reading, so i figured I may try to listen to a cd player made after 1996- and it just so happened that my local hifi shop (one of the last in the area and I’m friends with the owners) had a used Cambridge 840c they had taken in on trade.



I had to shuffle the system around anyway as I had stupidly put the preamp over the power amp and was getting a hum in the phono (duh- massive transformers) so pardon the mess- but initial thoughts (tubes in the CJ not even warmed up yet), is it’s got better imaging and separation that the older ones. I never noticed the drum work on the toms at the end of on “only in dreams” on the first Weezer album- but maybe was focused on it today (so much can be just in your head). It sounds a little veiled at the moment but just rolled Amperex’s into the CJ (too many variables- I know) and I’m gone just let it all run for an hour or two before I come back to listen.
 
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A well reviewed CD deck for sure. Is that Rotel an integrated or power amp?
 
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A well reviewed CD deck for sure. Is that Rotel an integrated or power amp?
Power conditioner actually- but regardless of any hocus pocus around PC’s and actual line filtering, I love them for the single button turn-on (the old upper end monster conditioners actually let you set the delay on different banks of outlets), single point grounding, delayed power-up (let’s old tube preamps make any pops or tube rush while the power amp is off), and they take the bullet if you get a power surge.
I bought this one 10-15 years ago when I was running my MC30’s which are meant for switched outlets on a preamp by my preamp at the time didn’t have outlets.

Not to be confused with a UPS or regenerator which are totally different beasts, but this rotel has actuated a few times when we get brown-outs or dips in the peak summer months and the A/C kicks on- so it is doing something.
 
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Power conditioner actually- but regardless of any hocus pocus around PC’s and actual line filtering, I love them for the single button turn-on (the old upper end monster conditioners actually let you set the delay on different banks of outlets), single point grounding, delayed power-up (let’s old tube preamps make any pops or tube rush while the power amp is off), and they take the bullet if you get a power surge.
I bought this one 10-15 years ago when I was running my MC30’s which are meant for switched outlets on a preamp by my preamp at the time didn’t have outlets.

Not to be confused with a UPS or regenerator which are totally different beasts, but this rotel has actuated a few times when we get brown-outs or dips in the peak summer months and the A/C kicks on- so it is doing something.
No idea they made em. Don’t seem to be part of the lineup any longer.
 
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No idea they made em. Don’t seem to be part of the lineup any longer.
Probably around 2010ish, don’t think they were popular for them- I had the entire matching set (amp, preamp, CD player and FM tuner). Was a nice system back then for getting into hifi
 
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Probably around 2010ish, don’t think they were popular for them- I had the entire matching set (amp, preamp, CD player and FM tuner). Was a nice system back then for getting into hifi

I eventually sold off the other gear and just kept the power conditioner- it’s a nice gadget.
 
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I had some B&W CDM1 NT on the original stands for a bit. They were the stand mount monitor with the nautilus tweeter. I thought the highs were very harsh. They were highly regarded speakers but they just didn’t have a sweet enough top end for me. I ran them with threshold sa 3.9e, Cairn, brysto,, Musical fidelity and some other nice amps. I burned through a lot of amps trying to make speakers sound good in those days, maybe high power non-class A would have been better. You really can only know if a speaker (or amp) is truly good if you have it in your space.
 
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I had some B&W CDM1 NT on the original stands for a bit. They were the stand mount monitor with the nautilus tweeter. I thought the highs were very harsh. They were highly regarded speakers but they just didn’t have a sweet enough top end for me. I ran them with threshold sa 3.9e, Cairn, brysto,, Musical fidelity and some other nice amps. I burned through a lot of amps trying to make speakers sound good in those days, maybe high power non-class A would have been better. You really can only know if a speaker (or amp) is truly good if you have it in your space.
I think there is also a lot to be said for the overused term “synergy”. I’ve had some pretty amazing speakers come through my house over the years (not all mine) and many I’ve had to work at the mix match of pre/amp combos to get them to sound how I want- and they don’t always get there.
 
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So a reminder to those who run mechanical devises to play music- service your shit regularly.

I had noticed a while ago that my VPI turntable was running a little slow (not quite out of pitch but something was a little off). I ordered a new belt and when it came in I decided to do a quick clean & lube (these tables are very easy to service).
When I pulled the platter and bearing it was a mess

I realized it has probably been around 10+ years since I had serviced it- so I cleaned out the bearing well and bearing and re-oiled, two drops of oil at the top of the motor shaft and now pitch perfect.
Like watches or cars these things need periodic service. The factory recommends every year or two for self service (depending on amount of use)- perhaps I’ll follow that recommendation.
 
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So a reminder to those who run mechanical devises to play music- service your shit regularly.

I had noticed a while ago that my VPI turntable was running a little slow (not quite out of pitch but something was a little off). I ordered a new belt and when it came in I decided to do a quick clean & lube (these tables are very easy to service).
When I pulled the platter and bearing it was a mess

I realized it has probably been around 10+ years since I had serviced it- so I cleaned out the bearing well and bearing and re-oiled, two drops of oil at the top of the motor shaft and now pitch perfect.
Like watches or cars these things need periodic service. The factory recommends every year or two for self service (depending on amount of use)- perhaps I’ll follow that recommendation.
My watch doesn't need service - it's still running! 😜