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Camera suggestion? ~£1000
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GuiltyGear
·My kit is basic. Anyone can do this. Just takes time to learn, practice, and commitment.
Your photos are right there with some of the best watch photos I've seen. Gear matters very little at that level. Setup, lighting, composition, post processing, etc, take years of work.
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glownyc
·Youre quite welcome. Given your experience, I'd look for a body with image stabilization (IBIS) and a "fast, bright" prime lens instead of a kit lens. Yes, maybe not as convenient as a telescopic zoom kit, but you'll get better results.
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Braindrain
·I prime lens can be a waste of money for someone who not set on a particular type of photography. Also the quality of some kit lenses has improved in recent times.
We'll agree to disagree. The output and flexibility from a good prime far exceeds any kit lens that I've seen, even modern kit lenses. They might have improved, but not to a level where I'd keep any.
Indoor pics? Give me a good fast prime any day over a kit lens.
Need to zoom? Do what I was told when I was first learning. I used my 2 feet. The standard kit lens (24-70mm FF equiv) doesn't provide any meaningful zoom. It extends out to a portrait lens. 😀
Given the OP's use case, it sounded to me there'd be a fair percentage of indoor pics.
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Risto
·Do you do it manually or use the focus bracketing features built in to cameras?
Thing is that someone inexperienced reading this thread, sees you're not using some super expensive gear and imagines they'll shoot the same photos as you do.
Your photos are right there with some of the best watch photos I've seen. Gear matters very little at that level. Setup, lighting, composition, post processing, etc, take years of work.
I suggest getting whatever camera body you like, but buy a good lens. When you evolve, you can keep the lens and replace the body. Hasselblad in the hands of the beginner doesn't make better shots than 500 dollar camera.
You have to learn the light, learn how to create the light, make the scene, and learn how to see. This comes through practice. No need to practice with expensive gear. A beginner doesn't need thousands of dollars' worth of lights and studio equipment to make a good shot. They need 100W LED light (cheap and continuous light shows results immediately), some cheap light stands, diffusion, and some little accessories. So, get cheap gear and make the best out of it.
I am learning through practicing every day. And so do the best in the business.
For example, I look up to this guy: https://www.laurentxaviermoulin.ch/en and this guy: https://alexteuscher.com/horology
They get to shoot expensive new watches. I mostly get to shoot cheap vintage ones.
The Visual Education channel by Karl Taylor is also a superb platform where they share great knowledge.
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zinterz
·A lot to read through and consider. Thank you all! @Braindrain @GuiltyGear @Risto @glownyc @dsio @Vercingetorix @SpeedyPhill @MRC 🤩
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eugeneandresson
·My camera suggestion : the camera one has with them is the best one (think: in a place and the perfect shot presents itself and one left the beast at home) and is within that budget … the iPhone 17 Pro (or whatever it is called) takes amazing pics for such a small camera and the optical zoom is adequate…and its always in my pocket.
These are two subsequent pics of min vs max optical zoom … so 0.5x(macro) to 8x … which i think is full frame equivalent of 12mm to 200mm …
These are two subsequent pics of min vs max optical zoom … so 0.5x(macro) to 8x … which i think is full frame equivalent of 12mm to 200mm …
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zinterz
·My camera suggestion : the camera one has with them is the best one (think: in a place and the perfect shot presents itself and one left the beast at home) and is within that budget … the iPhone 17 Pro (or whatever it is called) takes amazing pics for such a small camera and the optical zoom is adequate…and its always in my pocket.
These are two subsequent pics of min vs max optical zoom … so 0.5x(macro) to 8x … which i think is full frame equivalent of 12mm to 200mm …
I have an iPhone 15 Pro, and I even have the Halide app. But, I want something more tangible. Something more purposeful. Something to enjoy using, with physical dials, proper menus, different lens options (when affordable). I don’t doubt that the phone cameras of today have come on leaps and bounds, but it just “isn’t the same” (to me anyway).
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eugeneandresson
·I have an iPhone 15 Pro, and I even have the Halide app. But, I want something more tangible. Something more purposeful. Something to enjoy using, with physical dials, proper menus, different lens options (when affordable). I don’t doubt that the phone cameras of today have come on leaps and bounds, but it just “isn’t the same” (to me anyway).
Photography goals? New enthusiast or years of experience? For new enthusiasts looking for a real camera (dslr or mirrorless) i could recommend getting something with a fixed focal length (35mm) first …removing zoom from the equation reduces the variables and lets one focus on picture composition, snd then technically aperture and shutter speed (there is also ISO, but that i don’t think is a photography fundamental) … and then add other lenses later … anyhow, sorry for the ramble, more questions, zero answers 😀
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zinterz
·I hear you. Then its a bit of a rabbit hole because lenses are more important than the sensor…sensors/bodies become obsolete, but good lenses can last a lifetime. DSLR, all-in-1-compact…mirrorless…the first and the last lock one into a platform…i didn’t read the thread fully, so don’t know if you have an idea of what you want. I have a bunch of great lenses, and a 15 year old body (Canon 6D) that still takes amazing pics…but i hardly use it and never carry it around anymore…
Photography goals? New enthusiast or years of experience? For new enthusiasts looking for a real camera (dslr or mirrorless) i could recommend getting something with a fixed focal length (35mm) first …removing zoom from the equation reduces the variables and lets one focus on picture composition, snd then technically aperture and shutter speed (there is also ISO, but that i don’t think is a photography fundamental) … and then add other lenses later … anyhow, sorry for the ramble, more questions, zero answers 😀
Front-running setup I'm looking at is the Fujifilm X-T5 with the XF 18mm F1.4 R LM WR lens - the wide lens and large megapixel amount should do me well in the first instance, and then I can look at a zoom lens if I need to. It turns out that you can loan from Fujifilm directly which could make it easier. Luckily, my workplace have some Nikon Z6 IIs on order as well, and they have a lot of lenses at their disposal, so I will probably look at those as well.
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Braindrain
·If quick AF is a consideration, do read up on Fuji XT5 AF issues. Not knocking Fuji, but go in with eyes wide open.
A friend who owns an XT5 was disappointed with that issue.
However, if you think it's not an issue for your style of photography, then that's a pretty good everyday camera. If Fuji will let you play with it through their loaner program, then all the better.
A friend who owns an XT5 was disappointed with that issue.
However, if you think it's not an issue for your style of photography, then that's a pretty good everyday camera. If Fuji will let you play with it through their loaner program, then all the better.
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Fallout Boy
·I would suggest: choose the sensor-size first. Then we can discuss again ;-)
(-> I own Leica SL , Sony RX1)
(-> I own Leica SL , Sony RX1)
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GuiltyGear
·Front-running setup I'm looking at is the Fujifilm X-T5 with the XF 18mm F1.4 R LM WR lens
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zinterz
·I know nothing about Fuji, but that's a $2k camera + $1.2k glass. That's almost Z6iii + 24-120/f4 territory, or exactly as much as a Z6iii + 24-70/f4. Maybe I'm missing something, but what's Fuji offering here?
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GuiltyGear
·In the end, it's what you like and what clicks. If you like the Fuji in terms of design and what it offers, it's fine.
Just my 2 cents, but with $2k (or $1.3-1.5k? used) for an APS-C camera, you're entering deep into full frame territory. You get a MFT or APS-C because they're cheaper ecosystems.
I would suggest you try the Z6ii you mentioned at your workplace. If that clicks, at least you'll know the direction better.
Just my 2 cents, but with $2k (or $1.3-1.5k? used) for an APS-C camera, you're entering deep into full frame territory. You get a MFT or APS-C because they're cheaper ecosystems.
I would suggest you try the Z6ii you mentioned at your workplace. If that clicks, at least you'll know the direction better.
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zinterz
·In the end, it's what you like and what clicks. If you like the Fuji in terms of design and what it offers, it's fine.
Just my 2 cents, but with $2k (or $1.3-1.5k? used) for an APS-C camera, you're entering deep into full frame territory. You get a MFT or APS-C because they're cheaper ecosystems.
I would suggest you try the Z6ii you mentioned at your workplace. If that clicks, at least you'll know the direction better.
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Braindrain
·My original budget was somewhat… naive 😅
Just be careful of scope creep. Know what your most important criteria are and stick to them.
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