Breaking News: The New Steel Speedmaster With Caliber 321 “Ed White”

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that's a stretch

I've heard a rumour that if you drop the watch on it at the right angle, it plays a note perfect rendition of the drum solo from "In the Air Tonight".

 
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You’re probably right but I am currently not convinced why this 321 should cost twice as much as my 145.012-67 🤨
Regarding a (minor) visual design aspect; yet still a nice touch- the white enamel tachy scale will pop nicely against all that black. In the real - this should be very attractive.

Oh for sure it'll pop. The ceramic black bezel on the Apollo 11 50th Anniversary is really nice.
 
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What is "DON bezel" for? (excuse me for my ignorance)
 
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The 321 movement was mass produced in the past, technology has moved on. Thus this limit or 2,000 units a year is purely arbitrary and company driven. I am sure that Archer would be the best person to to give a guide on how long it would take to assemble a movement from new parts.

Let's look at what Omega says the time should be for servicing an old Cal. 321 watch for some perspective...

Work Instruction 48 defines the expected time frames for servicing various movements - this is what Omega uses to gauge productivity in their workshops. The Cal. 321 falls under the category WP8, and for all watches in this category the expected time frame for a full service would be 7 hours and 30 minutes. This is broken down as 5 hours and 38 minutes for the movement service, and 1 hour and 52 minutes for install the dial, hands, and final casing (which seems generous to me).

Now this isn't for assembling a new watch from parts,. but for taking an old beat up watch, completely disassembling it, cleaning the movement parts, replacing case parts, replacing worn movement parts, assembly and timing of the movement (may include finding faults that have to be dealt with), and then final assembly and casing. As I've said before, watchmakers all over world do this with Cal. 321's on a regular basis. Being given all brand new parts to assemble a watch from would be a dream job compared to dealing with old worn out movements, and cases that have seen much better days...

I would expect at least one completed watch per day from any competent watchmaker assembling, these, and it wouldn't surprise me if they could get 2 done in a day pretty easily, not having to fight with all the issues that people like me deal with when we get one of these old watches in...
 
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What is "DON bezel" for? (excuse me for my ignorance)

Dot Over Ninety= DON. Bezel was originally like this on speedmasters through 1968/9, and then moved to Dot Next to Ninety (DNN) There has been some movement of the dot above and below 70, but not usually discussed.
 
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I would expect at least one completed watch per day from any competent watchmaker assembling, these, and it wouldn't surprise me if they could get 2 done in a day pretty easily, not having to fight with all the issues that people like me deal with when we get one of these old watches in...
Interesting... so Omega may have ~4 dedicated watchmakers (WM) to build only this model.

Weeks in a year 52
less weeks off 6
work weeks 46
days per week 5
work days 230
watch per WM per day 2
watch per WM per year 460
watches per year 2000
number of WM 4.3
 
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14.4K USD for a 321, DON ceramic bezel, fauxtina, display caseback, in a FOIS case. I'm starting to feel like Omega is just plain taking advantage of my affection for the brand and the speedy at this point.
 
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14.4K USD for a 321, DON ceramic bezel, fauxtina, display caseback, in a FOIS case. I'm starting to feel like Omega is just plain taking advantage of my affection for the brand and the speedy at this point.

Its not the FOIS. case, it is a completely new design, also different to the original Ed White. The FOIS has funky bevels (as they are now officially called) the New EW has none, since neither did the original -64 EW.

I noted when looking at a caseback photo on another forum that they seem to have pulled the same trick here of fitting a ridge to the new bracelet which engages with a groove in the caseback. Those hoping to fit the new bracelet to an older 19mm Omega are going to be disappointed, it wont without some serious grinding if the similar Buzz Butt bracelet is any judge. No if you want a 19mm flat link for your 105.003 you need to look at the Trilogy design from 2017. This is not the same.
 
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the New EW has none, since neither did the original -64 EW.

I noted when looking at a caseback photo on another forum that they seem to have pulled the same trick here of fitting a ridge to the new bracelet which engages with a groove in the caseback. Those hoping to fit the new bracelet to an older 19mm Omega are going to be disappointed, it wont without some serious grinding if the similar Buzz Butt bracelet is any judge. No if you want a 19mm flat link for your 105.003 you need to look at the Trilogy design from 2017. This is not the same.

I mentioned previously how its nice Omega has gone with a case design inline with the 105.003-64, Its easy for me to say this as I have one, but why is the original 64 not more appreciated as thee Ed White, I mean the case is different and the case back says so, I dont get why the 64 and 65 trend at the same price, if it was Rolex these details would make a big differnce..

I think a few people are eyeing the bracelet, one I cant see them being available for a while and two there is no way it will fit the original case, maybe there will be a mod to use the new bracelet with the old endlinks??
 
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Its not the FOIS. case, it is a completely new design, also different to the original Ed White. The FOIS has funky bevels (as they are now officially called) the New EW has none, since neither did the original -64 EW.

I noted when looking at a caseback photo on another forum that they seem to have pulled the same trick here of fitting a ridge to the new bracelet which engages with a groove in the caseback. Those hoping to fit the new bracelet to an older 19mm Omega are going to be disappointed, it wont without some serious grinding if the similar Buzz Butt bracelet is any judge. No if you want a 19mm flat link for your 105.003 you need to look at the Trilogy design from 2017. This is not the same.
i don't think the Trilogy bracelet fits the FOIS case so it may not work with older 19mm lug cases either.
 
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I mentioned previously how its nice Omega has gone with a case design inline with the 105.003-64, Its easy for me to say this as I have one, but why is the original 64 not more appreciated as thee Ed White, I mean the case is different and the case back says so, I dont get why the 64 and 65 trend at the same price, if it was Rolex these details would make a big differnce..

I think a few people are eyeing the bracelet, one I cant see them being available for a while and two there is no way it will fit the original case, maybe there will be a mod to use the new bracelet with the old endlinks??

If this is anything like the Buzz Butt bracelet which also has the ridge then no you cant just change over the end links but we shall see. The Trilogy bracelet though can be made to fit pretty easily in my experience. You might have a point though, maybe the trilogy 19mm end links would solve the problem. That said maybe the bracelet is otherwise identical anyhow so it might make more sense just to buy the Trilogy bracelet.

I understand your point about Ed White but I think the cognoscenti realise that the -64 was a stepping stone to the pinnacle of Straight lug design: the -65, with its Goldilocks lug bevels (not too small not too large)...


Says the guy with a -65 but no -64 😉

i don't think the Trilogy bracelet fits the FOIS case so it may not work with older 19mm lug cases either.

Ahem:

KpE16pi.jpg
Edited:
 
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I understand your point about Ed White but I think the cognoscenti realise that the -64 was a stepping stone to the pinnacle of Straight lug design: the -65, with its Goldilocks lug bevels (not too small not too large)...

Says the guy with a -65 but no -64 😉

Ahem:

KpE16pi.jpg

Lovely 🥰 Here is his older brother 😉

TqvG4oH.jpg
 
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This is post number 321 in this thread and is therefore worth so much more than any of the posts that came before
 
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It looks like the watch is available to reserve through the Omega website now.
 
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Boutique in Houston says delivery for those on the waitlist (i.e. #1 on list) won't likely receive watch until 2021. They still have not delivered majority of the Platinum 321 that received full deposit from last year. this is perfect storm for a rolex Daytona like bottleneck....
 
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Another interesting datapoint from a boutique in TX:

I was the 2nd person to put down a full deposit. Rep calls me today to ask to talk about my buying history from boutiques. Says (essentially, but my words) that they’re going to make both a quantitative judgment on who gets the units based on the order of providing a deposit, but also a qualitative judgment based on purchase history, etc. Rep asked that, to help my case, I send proof of receipts of other purchases, etc. He says this is in part to try and avoid sales to grey market.

My response, essentially:

(1) this watch is meant to appeal in part to vintage watch people, who don’t as regularly purchase modern watches from boutiques

(2) grey market buyers have plenty of history buying modern from boutiques

(3) Owning SS Rolex sports watches, I understand the game being communicated here, but am less certain Omega gets to play that same game just yet, and that nothing about their apparent plan will slow grey market buyers - and in fact requiring extensive prior boutique purchase history may favor grey market buyers.

Otherwise of interest: rep says they don’t know timing yet, but conservative guess may be May before first unit arrives in boutique.

to be clear, the rep was being great about it all and just communicating his directives - even said to help him out by sending photos of my vintage omegas

all in all, luckily the deposit is cancellable at any time... may be sooner than later
Got the same talk from the Houston, tx boutique. they dont' expect those at the top of the list (both in time and $$ spent at the boutique) to get watches before 2021!
 
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According to Omega boutique in Prague, Czech Republic, expected delivery is in June 2020.