Breaking News: The New Steel Speedmaster With Caliber 321 “Ed White”

Posts
302
Likes
303
For my collection a more interesting proposition would be a 2020 Speedy Pro with a 3861 movement + exhibition caseback + a new improved bracelet, at around US$6-7K.

I think you'll be getting your wish within a few month time (maybe minus the bracelet).
 
Posts
5,076
Likes
22,942
Having the A11 50SS the 321 SS would cast a shadow over my first speedy pricewise. Not hoping/expecting a possible A13 to have the 321 movement as that would be even more expensive than current 13k. I don't think Omega will use some of the volume of yearly 321 production to introduce a A13 50th LE.
 
Posts
27,685
Likes
70,358
As others have pointed out, the "Lazarus" 321 movement story (digital scanning etc.) + one watchmaker per watch (probably just assembly and regulation) is really just marketing BS to justify the price premium.

If anyone wants a watch assembled by just one watchmaker, take whatever watch it is, send it to an independent watchmaker, have them take it apart and put it back together again....et voila! 😀

From a pure functional watch experience, what does the 321 movement provide over the 1861/3861, apart from the smoother column wheel operation? Does the 321 movement demonstrate tangible superior aesthetic pleasure with vastly improved finishing, compared to the 1863?

The new 321 is finished exactly the same as the originals are in terms of decorative work. The plating is apparently different, but the simple graining on the bridges, very simple straight grained finish of the steel parts (with no anglage), is a very industrial finish to say the least. Omega has made this the same as the watches that were in the Speedmasters originally - it was a "tool watch" back then, and didn't get any serious fancy decoration. The finish on this movement is equivalent to that applied to the regular 861 and 1861.

The 863/1863 has Côtes de Genève on the bridges, perlage on the dial side of the movement, and even at times under the bridges, polished anglage on all the steel parts - it is most certainly finished more completely, and according to Omega's view, to a higher level.

Cheers, Al
 
Posts
651
Likes
4,250
Got to ask yourself, is it to keep or flip, if its to keep then your asking the right questions, if you would sell then yours could be one of the first to hit the grey market and that's for the dealers to give you a price they feel would get them in on a new 321, I expect some greys have buyers already lined up, they just need the stock..
Right, even though flipping is not necessarily risk free. I could also put down the cancellable deposit, keep the option open, and change my mind later, but I prefer not. I rather just buy what I really like.
 
Posts
2,675
Likes
7,487
Sure about that?

Yep, no doubt about it.

Rolex and Omega both publish official MSRP values and their Boutiques sell at or very close to it. For modern Daytona and this Speedy Cal 321, that means they sell for the published rate.

Daytona: $13,150 USD



The MSRP on a SS Daytona can these days be viewed in one of two ways: either there is no MSRP (because they’re unpurchaseable from Rolex), or the MSRP includes not only the Daytona’s sticker price but also the price of several precious metal Rolexes one must first acquire before being in contention for a chance to receive a SS Daytona at MSRP from Rolex.
Huh? MSRP is very straight forward and non-debatable. Manufacturers Suggested Retail Price. Not the that actual selling price, not the grey-market price, not the pay-to-pay price, simply the MSRP.

in the real world, the Daytona’s MSRP is totally irrelevant, and the only discernible cost of entry is a review of the grey market for an unworn piece - which is currently about $23K
Nonsense. MSRP is being paid very often, for many Daytona's, in many retail locations across the globe. Just not by you. Doesn't make it "totally irrelevant".

there may be plenty of other reasons to not purchase the 321, but those reasons really don’t seem to include it “being more expensive than“ a SS Daytona (or GMT II)
My comment was related to the price of the most common Speedy that is well below the price of the Daytona. Many seem stuck on the Speedy as a $5k USD watch, and Omega clearly want to move it up-market. I would argue they have been quite successful and this latest Cal 321 example will continue the trend.
 
Posts
8,890
Likes
28,361
My comment was related to the price of the most common Speedy that is well below the price of the Daytona. Many seem stuck on the Speedy as a $5k USD watch, and Omega clearly want to move it up-market. I would argue they have been quite successful and this latest Cal 321 example will continue the trend.

I'm still stuck on it being a £2600 as that's what I last paid for a brand new one! 😁

The removal of a 1861 model, and the replacement with 3861 and 321 models helps them with the reposition... oh no sir... this is the NEW speedmaster 😉
 
Posts
189
Likes
313
Yep, no doubt about it.

Rolex and Omega both publish official MSRP values and their Boutiques sell at or very close to it. For modern Daytona and this Speedy Cal 321, that means they sell for the published rate.

Daytona: $13,150 USD


You have to be honest and admit the ceramic Daytona is nigh on impossible to buy MSRP on its own, for those who want to go on waiting lists are told 7 years+, the watches that do come into dealers are sold at MSRP along side $$$$$ worth of other hard to sell watches like platinum ladies models.

Essentially Rolex have created the perfect product to sell their other watches and dealers are happy to do it.

But... Yes the MSRP of a Daytona is less than the 321.
 
Posts
16,743
Likes
47,367
As I have said before, it’s Omega getting a piece of the 20k money that vintage Speedmasters were selling for.
Well executed by Omega.
 
Posts
2,152
Likes
3,809
The new 321 is finished exactly the same as the originals are in terms of decorative work. The plating is apparently different, but the simple graining on the bridges, very simple straight grained finish of the steel parts (with no anglage), is a very industrial finish to say the least. Omega has made this the same as the watches that were in the Speedmasters originally - it was a "tool watch" back then, and didn't get any serious fancy decoration. The finish on this movement is equivalent to that applied to the regular 861 and 1861.

The 863/1863 has Côtes de Genève on the bridges, perlage on the dial side of the movement, and even at times under the bridges, polished anglage on all the steel parts - it is most certainly finished more completely, and according to Omega's view, to a higher level.

Cheers, Al
Thanks Al, this is exactly what I suspected.

The re-issued 321 does not offer any significant additional work on the movement side from a finishing perspective and the watch assembly process is standard fare for any watchmaker.

I read your excellent post on the 3861
https://omegaforums.net/threads/3861-initial-thoughts.98944/

Perhaps you could kindly elaborate further and compare the finishing on the 3861 (standard rhodium) to the 1863? In your post you state that they are similar, but it was not clear to me what specific differences in finishing you might have observed.

Cheers, Bruno
 
Posts
1,318
Likes
10,654
Nice watch, reasonably priced. Been looking for a nice Ed white, this might fit the bill. I like the lugs a lot.
 
Posts
29
Likes
36
About the movement finish they use some kind of gold or German Silver in 1863 like this new 321? Maybe this increase the finish grade for it.

“Omega used a Sedna gold treatment on the parts to resemble the original copper-colored parts. The clutch bridge that I just briefly mentioned above is in German silver. A more thorough write-up on the new caliber 321 movement can be found in our hands-on review of the Speedmaster caliber 321 in platinum. Just like the platinum Speedmaster caliber 321, this new steel version also has a sapphire caseback.”
 
Posts
4,402
Likes
5,797
I'm not super impressed. Lot of money for that watch IMO


Couldn’t disagree more, my good friend
 
Posts
246
Likes
622
Ok; so after an unnecessary amount of machinations, I plunked down my 50% deposit to be on the list. My reasons:

1. I don’t have a c.321 movement Speedy already in my little collection. I love the c.321 movement. The history, the feel.
2. I seldom buy vintage. Watches I purchase become vintage (along with me). -Like my 1997 Coke GMT-II.
3. I’m good with the design and the details (the patina on the lume, No hesalite, etc). I like the look a lot!
4. I don’t intend to flip the piece and I’m not concerned about value increasing in a short time frame. I’m okay with it being an open edition that is not made en masse. My collection overall has gain value over the years. The biggest losses are offset by the biggest gains. ...and no, I could not guess which were which.
5. There aren’t other watches I crave more. I don’t care for the 5711 or Royal Oak Jumbo or Daytona or SeaDweller or Lange 1.

The stuff that turns folks off to the watch doesn’t seem to make much of a difference to me. I think it’s a cool watch; I like that Omega did what was seen as impossible a few years ago and I think that the price is what it is.
 
Posts
13
Likes
43
Pie in sky the question - If you were offered one of the first ones would you take the gamble and buy it in the hope it would be worth more than RRP? I'm not sure I'm really not 😕😕

I was offered one and passed. Did get the ss 50th and love it.
Edited:
 
Posts
1,008
Likes
1,717
[yes, the lume discussion was 5 pages ago, but I miss ONE day and the thread blows up!]

If this tinted lume is the color that was used 50 years ago, why aren't all modern Speedmasters (still) using that color of lume? The reason why it strikes me as somewhat disingenuous (carefully not saying 'faux') is because this reference is a "rebirth" (their words) of a previous movement and design. If this were a totally new design (within limits for remaining a Speedmaster, of course) that used tinted lume, or even a return to that color as iconic of the Omega brand for all references going forward, then it makes sense to me. There are other manufacturers making vintage-styled watches with tinted lume that aren't trying to pass for the same model they produced 50 years ago. I imagine there are some that haven't appreciably changed in 50 years either. And to be honest, the DON bezel strikes me the same way - why did it ever change that this one has to go back to it to make collectors & enthusiasts happy? I'm not saying it invalidates this one and I'm not dissing anything or anyone (trying not to, anyway) who wants it. That's just how I see it.
 
Posts
3,979
Likes
8,988
Yep, no doubt about it.
.

Mate, me thinks you're responding to the letter but not the spirit of my point. I can google the MSRP of both watches.

But I'd like you to go with a straight face and tell the SS Rolex sport watch buying community that "the only thing that matters about the price of a SS Daytona is the MSRP".

Truth is, these days there are only THREE ways to purchase a SS Daytona at MSRP: (1) have previously spent $$$$ on other Rolex's the boutiques can't unload (in which case MSRP becomes irrelevant, at least to me), or (2) agree to wait several years (in which case MSRP again becomes irrelevant, at least to me), or (3) be a grey market buyer with a side-deal/relationship, and see again item (1) above (in which case MSRP again becomes irrelevant, at least to me)

What Denarius said bares repeating:

You have to be honest and admit the ceramic Daytona is nigh on impossible to buy MSRP on its own, for those who want to go on waiting lists are told 7 years+, the watches that do come into dealers are sold at MSRP along side $$$$$ worth of other hard to sell watches like platinum ladies models
 
Posts
6,959
Likes
13,016
MSRP is just that, the SUGGESTED price. The market sets the actual price, not the manufacturer, distributor or retailer. Rolex can set the Daytona's MSRP at $13,150 but the market says it's about $23,000. People get upset about this, they shouldn't.