Basic watchmaking tips - crystal fitting

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Thank you. I used this case for a eta 2891-a9 movement. Hopefully i can put it in a proper case eventually.
Being the case is unknown, do I measure the bezel groove diameter or crystal diameter?

Both - you want a very slight interference fit (approx. 0.02 mm) between the inside of the seal and the outside of the crystal.
 
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Seems odd that none of the first three repairers could intuit that if the crystal was shaped the correct gasket would be too. Instead they kept trying to use a round gasket, I suppose because they didn't have access to the genuine Omega gasket. But where did the unending supply of crystals come from?
I only know that one of them used the incorrect gasket, which I'd given him. See my post above.
 
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Hi, this is a really great resource, thank you A for collating it!
Does anyone have any advice on fitting a NOS crystal to SM300 165.024, please?
I've not done a 165. before. I was planning on removing the old one with my Bergeon 4266, but should the new one be fitted with the same
using the pre-depth platform? Would this cause the tension ring to pop out?
Or should it be fitted by using my basic levered Crystal Press?
Or is it none of the above?
 
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I don't think you are supposed to use the 4266 on a crystal with a tension ring. You will likely damage the replacement crystal, and also not be able to install it successfully. The claws won't be able to reduce the diameter of the crystal due to the tension ring pushing against it.

You would need to press it out and in using a regular press.
 
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I don't think you are supposed to use the 4266 on a crystal with a tension ring. You will likely damage the replacement crystal, and also not be able to install it successfully. The claws won't be able to reduce the diameter of the crystal due to the tension ring pushing against it.

You would need to press it out and in using a regular press.

Hi, thank you
I thought that might be an issue fitting the new crystal, but you seem to be saying I should remove the old crystal by using a press,
and fit the new one by using a press?
Would a basic press do it, or should it be a specific kind of press?
Cheers!
 
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Hi, thank you
I thought that might be an issue fitting the new crystal, but you seem to be saying I should remove the old crystal by using a press,
and fit the new one by using a press?
Would a basic press do it, or should it be a specific kind of press?
Cheers!

Yes, they press in, so they press out. Alternately, you can knock the crystal out, but you would need to protect it if you plan to use it again.
 
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Yes, they press in, so they press out. Alternately, you can knock the crystal out, but you would need to protect it if you plan to use it again.
Ok, got it!
Yeah, I think it's worth keeping the old Crystal intact just in case there's an emergency or I can't get another for a while.
Cheers!
 
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Would you use any of those methods on replacing the crystal on my D6672? The current crystal is 30mm and turns. I was going to order a 30.1mm and instal it but was curious as to the method. Here is my link from a prior post about the watch.

Ultra Thin D6672
 
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Would you use any of those methods on replacing the crystal on my D6672? The current crystal is 30mm and turns. I was going to order a 30.1mm and instal it but was curious as to the method. Here is my link from a prior post about the watch.

Ultra Thin D6672
For a low dome crystal without tension ring, the press style that is on the crystal cabinet is the method I would use.
 
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Glad you are all finding these posts useful. 👍

Moving on, here is one that's been covered before, and is a bit unusual - a mineral crystal held in with an O-ring. These are found in the Mark II Speedmasters, Flightmaster designs and others like this also. The crystals have a groove cut around the circumference of them, and this is where the O-ring seats as you can see on this Flightmaster crystal:



Omega makes a tool for inserting these crystals, and here the tool is just past the crystal. The crystal has had the O-ring installed on it:



The inside of the tool is lubricated with Fomblin grease, and the crystal is inserted into the tool:



The tool is tapered on the inside, and as you press the crystal into it, the O-ring is compressed. There is a small groove on the inner diameter of the tool that acts as a stop - this leaves part of the crustal sticking out of the tool, to help locate the crystal in the case:



The tool and crystal are positioned on the case, making sure to align the tachymeter scale on this one:



You can start the insertion by pressing the crystal with your fingers, but I find using the press to finish it is best:



This is honestly a terrible system, and you have all likely seen a watch where this O-ring has turned to black goop, and has caused damage to parts under it.
I just purchased a Mark II that needs a crystal replace. Is that something that I can do myself as a beginner in the hobby or do I need special tools as you mentioned in your comment?

Thank you
 
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I just purchased a Mark II that needs a crystal replace. Is that something that I can do myself as a beginner in the hobby or do I need special tools as you mentioned in your comment?

Thank you
You will likely break the crystal without using the installation tool…
 
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You will likely break the crystal without using the installation tool…
Is the tool available for purchase? Do you happen to have a part number? Thank you for you help!
 
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Thank you. Found the part. It’s $40. I’ll order it.
Omega hasn't sold them for years so finding one that cheap out on the open market is good.
 
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I noticed the crystal on my Speedmaster MKII is loose. Is there a way to reseated or is that too risky?
 
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I noticed the crystal on my Speedmaster MKII is loose. Is there a way to reseated or is that too risky?
How long since the last service?
 
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How long since the last service?
No idea. I just got it. It’s running at -1 sec/day with an amplitude of 270, and a Beat error of 0.2. I think that’s good for an old unserviced movement.

I do think it needs service due to the crystal being loose. And the chronograph reset pusher can be engaged while the chronograph is running. The chronograph seconds and minuets don’t reset but the hours do.

I don’t normally try to reset the chronograph while it’s running, but it did feel funny to me when I was testing the functions and it takes very little pressure to reset the chronograph.
But other than that, it seems like a solid watch. The case is in excellent condition.

I hope that my explanation makes sense.

Thanks!
 
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that problem can be solved by an adjustment thats fairly trivial during a an overhaul, but I am surprised that its there as there is an eccentric pin to quite easily adjust where the stop lever sits to control the reset pusher feeling as well as stopping the resetting during running. Of course it could be something deeper, but by your description thats where I would be looking first.

For me I would be getting that movement overhauled to see if there are any other issues that perhaps don't show obvious symptoms like this one.
 
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Glad you are all finding these posts useful. 👍

Moving on, here is one that's been covered before, and is a bit unusual - a mineral crystal held in with an O-ring. These are found in the Mark II Speedmasters, Flightmaster designs and others like this also. The crystals have a groove cut around the circumference of them, and this is where the O-ring seats as you can see on this Flightmaster crystal:



Omega makes a tool for inserting these crystals, and here the tool is just past the crystal. The crystal has had the O-ring installed on it:



The inside of the tool is lubricated with Fomblin grease, and the crystal is inserted into the tool:



The tool is tapered on the inside, and as you press the crystal into it, the O-ring is compressed. There is a small groove on the inner diameter of the tool that acts as a stop - this leaves part of the crustal sticking out of the tool, to help locate the crystal in the case:



The tool and crystal are positioned on the case, making sure to align the tachymeter scale on this one:



You can start the insertion by pressing the crystal with your fingers, but I find using the press to finish it is best:



This is honestly a terrible system, and you have all likely seen a watch where this O-ring has turned to black goop, and has caused damage to parts under it.
Archer,

I obtained the Omega tool and a crystal and gasket. When you replace the crystal do you do it with the movement inside the case or is it best to remove it? I can see it would be very difficult to alight the tachymeter scale without the dial.

Also, the grease is applied to the inside of the tool where the crystal is, or is it applied to the outer perimeter of the tool?

Thanks for the help!