Oyster, Shmoyster, I just acquired a Zell Brothers Turtle De Luxe. Never heard of one? Neither had I. Some findings of my research and photos are included below.
Early in Rolex's history it was a minority shareholder in the manufacturing facility that produced its movements, Aegler, Société Anonyme, Fabrique des Montres Rolex & Gruen Guild A. The facility also produced movements for Gruen, another shareholder in the facility. This arrangement prohibited Rolex from selling its movements in Gruen's market, i.e., the U.S..
Rolex's reputation grew significantly after it acquired patent rights to the oyster case. Rolex wanted to cash in on its success with the oyster by marketing it in the U.S. market. To get around the above mentioned agreement which prohibited marketing its movements in the U.S., Rolex sourced movements from FHF (Fontmelon), placed them in oyster cases and marketed their watches in the U.S. through the outdoors outfitters Abercrombie & Fitch. This arrangement was short-lived.
Rolex then entered a similar arrangement with a high-end jewelry chain, Zell Brothers, headquartered in Portland, Oregon. Zell sold the watches under the name, Turtle Timer.
When I stumbled across an auction for a Zell Bros. Turtle De Luxe I thought I might have found one of these early U.S. Rolex imports. The info and photos provided by the seller were short on detail. The watch was not running. I took a shot and won the auction with a modest bid.
The watch turned out not to be a Rolex but, rather, a handsome Movado powered by what I believe to be the company's 470 movement. The case is a stainless Borgel and has a screw-in case back. My watchmaker opened the case, got the watch running, and gently cleaned the dial of deteriorated lume from the hands....gratis. Thanks Mac!
If anyone has more info about these watches I would greatly appreciate being educated. Cheers!