Are spring bars under SEL better removed by a double spring bar tool?

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My jangly hollow end-links allow easy access and plenty of wiggle room to remove the spring bars with a standard tool.

I’m about to remove the bars on my new Seamaster 300 master coaxial, and I’ve never dealt with solid end-links before. Are they more effectively removed by a double spring bar tool, such as this, or will a standard tool suffice?

 
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They can be difficult to use if you can't support the case properly. They also require you to control two points of contact rather than focussing on one.

A high quality pair with good tips may be OK, but the cheap knock-offs? Forget about it.
 
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I struggled to remove the spring bars on my Speedmaster with a standard tool, and gave up trying on my new Sub,. Purchased the Bergeron 7825 spring bar tool after watching a video on the subject. It wasn't cheap, but works like a charm.
 
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I struggled to remove the spring bars on my Speedmaster with a standard tool, and gave up trying on my new Sub,. Purchased the Bergeron 7825 spring bar tool after watching a video on the subject. It wasn't cheap, but works like a charm.

Agree. Own this tool, it's great.

@M'Bob I believe you own a 233.30, I have the same reference. If you don't want to scratch your lugs, use care (or tape) but the tool blufinz mentioned is great.
 
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I really hate that style tweezer 👍 for bracelet changes, the tips slip and the adjustment is not smooth. If you dont want to spring for the Bergeron (pun intended) then you could try these: https://www.esslinger.com/horotec-spring-bar-tweezers/
I find them easy and pretty reliable, but the old "your mileage may vary" caveat applies.
 
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I really hate that style tweezer 👍 for bracelet changes, the tips slip and the adjustment is not smooth. If you dont want to spring for the Bergeron (pun intended) then you could try these: https://www.esslinger.com/horotec-spring-bar-tweezers/
I find them easy and pretty reliable, but the old "your mileage may vary" caveat applies.

Dave, are you referring to the one directly above, with the locking feature?
 
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They can be difficult to use if you can't support the case properly. They also require you to control two points of contact rather than focussing on one.

A high quality pair with good tips may be OK, but the cheap knock-offs? Forget about it.
I struggled to remove the spring bars on my Speedmaster with a standard tool, and gave up trying on my new Sub,. Purchased the Bergeron 7825 spring bar tool after watching a video on the subject. It wasn't cheap, but works like a charm.
Agree. Own this tool, it's great.

@M'Bob I believe you own a 233.30, I have the same reference. If you don't want to scratch your lugs, use care (or tape) but the tool blufinz mentioned is great.

I see there are different tip widths available. On the Ofrei site, they seem to believe that the finer tips are more suitable for Rolex, whereas the standard 1mm tips are better for Omega. Any real-world confirmation of this?
 
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Dave, are you referring to the one directly above, with the locking feature?
yes
At least on mine the tips slip positions, side to side and up and down, plus the tips break easily. I didnt like that style but like any tool it comes down to the person using it. I just found the one I linked to much easier to grab and use and didnt break the bank
 
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I see there are different tip widths available. On the Ofrei site, they seem to believe that the finer tips are more suitable for Rolex, whereas the standard 1mm tips are better for Omega. Any real-world confirmation of this?

The Bergeron 7825 worked easily as well with the Rolex and Speedmaster. I had no issues with either watch.
 
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I see there are different tip widths available. On the Ofrei site, they seem to believe that the finer tips are more suitable for Rolex, whereas the standard 1mm tips are better for Omega. Any real-world confirmation of this?

I ordered (from Amazon) and use 6767 F.

 
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I just use a normal spring bar tool - Bergeon 6111. It has always worked fine, and I've never felt the need to use these two pronged style tools.
 
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I just use a normal spring bar tool - Bergeon 6111. It has always worked fine, and I've never felt the need to use these two pronged style tools.

I agree.
 
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I just use a normal Bergeon tool. Tape the lugs, have good light, steady hands, good eyesight and confidence...and you'll be fine. Confidence is a big factor.
 
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I’ve had good success using a “third hand”.
Need to apply constant tweezer pressure throughout the process to avoid having tweezer ends release into lugs to avoid scratching.
Takes a couple practice runs before attempting on seamaster. Try on a mule first.
 
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And sometimes homemade tools are better than the premium tools.

Interesting. Have any pictures to share of these homemade tools that are better than the premium tools?
 
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With the two-pronged tweezer-style tool, as mentioned, you want to practice and watch some videos first. One thing I learned (after scratching lugs on some beaters) is that while tweezing the springs, you want to pull the watch head away from the bracelet and not the bracelet away from the watch head, if that makes sense. At least that’s what worked for me. I find the tweezer style easier to use than the single tool, fwiw.

I also kinda don’t care if the underside of my lugs get scratched—never look at them anyway and watches are meant to be worn.
 
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I have a Bergeon 6767 and used it without issue on SELs
 
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Interesting. Have any pictures to share of these homemade tools that are better than the premium tools?

Not yet.